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The role of dimethylaminoethanol in cosmetic dermatology.

Skincare formulations for the improvement of aging skin are increasingly important consumer products. Here, we review available data on one such agent - 2-dimethylaminoethanol (DMAE) or deanol - that has recently been evaluated in a placebo-controlled trial. DMAE is an analog of the B vitamin choline and is a precursor of acetylcholine. Although the role of acetylcholine as a neurotransmitter is well known, growing evidence points to acetylcholine as a ubiquitous cytokine-like molecule that regulates basic cellular processes such as proliferation, differentiation, locomotion, and secretion in a paracrine and autocrine fashion. Indeed, this modulatory role may contribute to the cutaneous activity of DMAE. In a randomized clinical study, 3% DMAE facial gel applied daily for 16 weeks has been shown to be safe and efficacious (p < 0.05) in the mitigation of forehead lines and periorbital fine wrinkles, and in improving lip shape and fullness and the overall appearance of aging skin. These effects did not regress during a 2-week cessation of application. Beneficial trends (p > 0.05 but </= 0.1) were noted in the appearance of coarse wrinkles, under-eye dark circles, nasolabial folds, sagging neck skin, and neck firmness. Application was found to be well tolerated, with no differences in the incidence of erythema, peeling, dryness, itching, burning, or stinging between the DMAE and placebo groups. An open-label extension of the trial showed that the long-term application of DMAE gel for up to 1 year was associated with a good safety profile. The acute skin-firming effects of DMAE have been confirmed by quantitative measures of cutaneous tensile strength. In vitro studies in peripheral blood lymphocytes indicate that DMAE is a moderately active anti-inflammatory agent. Although its mechanisms of action in the skin remain to be elucidated, evidence suggests that the skin is an active site of acetylcholine synthesis, storage, secretion, metabolism, and receptivity. Muscarinic acetylcholine receptors have been localized to keratinocytes, melanocytes and dermal fibroblasts, whereas nicotinic acetylcholine receptors have been found in keratinocytes. The role of acetylcholine and the role of DMAE as a modulator of acetylcholine-mediated functions in the skin remain to be elucidated.Thus, the benefits of DMAE in dermatology include a potential anti-inflammatory effect and a documented increase in skin firmness with possible improvement in underlying facial muscle tone. Studies are needed to evaluate the relative efficacy of DMAE compared with other skin-care regimens (e.g., topical antioxidant creams, alpha-hydroxy acids).

Cosmetics↗

Day-night differences in effects of cosmetic treatments on facial skin. Effects on facial skin appearance.

Two groups of 24 healthy caucasian women, similar with regard to age classes (from 19 to 55) as well as fair and dark complexion of skin and hair, volunteered to use during a 14-day span a conventional facial cream (active placebo: AP) and thereafter, during a 21-day span Noctosome (Noctos). The latter is a new generation of liposome made with non-ionic lipids leading to microspheres which include glycopeptides in the aqueous compartment of the vesicle, alpha-tocopherol ester in the membrane-like structure and sphingo-ceramides at the surface of the microspheres. The aim of the study was to test the beneficial effects of Noctos (vsAP) with respectively morning (7-9-hr) and evening (21-23-hr) applications as facial ointments. Observed differences were validated using several statistical tests: ANOVA, cosinor, etc. Subjects were socially synchronized with a diurnal activity from 7 hr to 23 hr and a nocturnal rest. Each day, at fixed clock hours (7, 10, 20 and 23 hr), each subject used visual analogue scales to self-rate a set of variables characterizing facial aspects. Brilliance of complexion and texture of skin exhibited a circadian rhythm (peak time at 10 hr), both with AP and Noctos. The latter produces a beneficial effect with regard to reference values (AP). The evening application of Noctos is more efficient than the morning one. However, the magnitude of this beneficial effect is related both to age (greater for the age class 25-35 years than for younger and older subjects) and to skin complexion (greater for fair than dark complexioned subjects). Major beneficial effects of Noctos in the evening hours are related neither to fatigue nor to mood of the women since the respective circadian rhythms of these variables appear to vary independently from those of facial skin characteristics.

Adult↗

Liposomes: a novel topical delivery system for pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications.

This review will highlight work done in our laboratories evaluating topical liposomal delivery in a wide variety of animal models and human skin using both in vivo and in vitro techniques. The mechanism by which liposomes facilitate deposition of drugs into the skin and some potential applications of topically applied liposomes will be discussed. Particular emphasis will be placed on the development of analytical techniques that allow the quantification of drug levels in the various skin strata and in pilosebaceous structures. Appropriate models of skin representing the two cases, as well as those wherein both routes are available for skin deposition, were examined using a wide variety of liposomal preparations containing radiolabeled and fluorescent molecules as marker compounds.

Animals↗

Application of fluorocarbon emulsions as components of cosmetics and medical ointments.

Localization and accumulation of perfluorochemicals (PFCs) in the skin and internal organs of rats after prolonged surface application of the concentrated PFC emulsion, fluorogel, have been studied by electron microscopy and gas-chromatography. The PFC concentration in skin was about 0.03-0.04 mg per 1 g of tissue. Few aggregates of emulsion particles were detected in derma. The oxygen-dependent favorable effect of fluorogel treatment of thermic burned skin and wound surface was found.

Animals↗

In vitro and in vivo prolonged biological activities of novel vitamin C derivative, 2-O-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid (AA-2G), in cosmetic fields.

The biological activity of the novel vitamin C derivative, 2-O-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid (AA-2G), was evaluated in vitro and in vivo. The percutaneous absorption of AA-2G was determined in five Japanese males. The excretion of ascorbic acid (AA) in the subjects administered AA-2G was sustained for a longer period than in the subjects administered ascorbic acid 2-phosphate (AA-2P), which is a conventional vitamin C derivative. An analysis of the distribution of AA in the skin showed that small black specks assumed to be AA were observed in the epidermis even 3 d after applying AA-2G. The melanin synthesis in B16 melanoma cells was inhibited more by AA-2G than by AA-2P, and AA-2G also prevented more UV-induced damage of human skin keratinocytes and fibroblasts than AA-2P did. From these in vivo and in vitro results, it is supposed that the conversion of AA-2G to AA is sustained for a long time compared with that of AA-2P, and that AA-2G is an effective and available compound having vitamin C activity in human subjects.

Absorption↗

A systematic approach to laceration repair. Tricks to ensure the desired cosmetic result.

An organized, systematic approach to wound repair based on the mnemonic LACERATE can jog the memory and ensure a successful outcome. This stepwise approach consists of looking at the wound to assess repair options, anesthetizing and cleaning the wound, setting up equipment, selecting the proper repair technique, assessing results, determining the patient's tetanus immunization status, and educating the patient about wound care.

Anesthesia, Local↗

Chemical xenobiotics and mitochondrial autoantigens in primary biliary cirrhosis: identification of antibodies against a common environmental, cosmetic, and food additive, 2-octynoic acid.

Emerging evidence has suggested environmental factors as causative agents in the pathogenesis of primary biliary cirrhosis (PBC). We have hypothesized that in PBC the lipoyl domain of the immunodominant E2 component of pyruvate dehydrogenase (PDC-E2) is replaced by a chemical xenobiotic mimic, which is sufficient to break self-tolerance. To address this hypothesis, based upon our quantitative structure-activity relationship data, a total of 107 potential xenobiotic mimics were coupled to the lysine residue of the immunodominant 15 amino acid peptide of the PDC-E2 inner lipoyl domain and spotted on microarray slides. Sera from patients with PBC (n = 47), primary sclerosing cholangitis (n = 15), and healthy volunteers (n = 20) were assayed for Ig reactivity. PBC sera were subsequently absorbed with native lipoylated PDC-E2 peptide or a xenobiotically modified PDC-E2 peptide, and the remaining reactivity analyzed. Of the 107 xenobiotics, 33 had a significantly higher IgG reactivity against PBC sera compared with control sera. In addition, 9 of those 33 compounds were more reactive than the native lipoylated peptide. Following absorption, 8 of the 9 compounds demonstrated cross-reactivity with lipoic acid. One compound, 2-octynoic acid, was unique in both its quantitative structure-activity relationship analysis and reactivity. PBC patient sera demonstrated high Ig reactivity against 2-octynoic acid-PDC-E2 peptide. Not only does 2-octynoic acid have the potential to modify PDC-E2 in vivo but importantly it was/is widely used in the environment including perfumes, lipstick, and many common food flavorings.

Amino Acid Sequence↗

Mercury pigmentation and high mercury levels from the use of a cosmetic cream.

A 42-year-old woman presented with facial mercury pigmentation, raised levels of mercury in the blood and urine and possible neuropsychiatric toxicity after the topical application of 17.5% mercuric ammonium chloride. The patient purchased a mercury-containing cream without prescription from Victorian pharmacies for many years to lighten her complexion. She was unaware of any health risk. No warning appears on the package or insert of the cream she used. Health workers, particularly pharmacists and medical practitioners, should be aware that over-the-counter mercury-containing creams may raise the concentrations of mercury in the blood and urine to potentially toxic levels. A warning on the package should be considered and use of the cream restricted.

Administration, Cutaneous↗