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From miso, saké and shoyu to cosmetics: a century of science for kojic acid.

This article reviews the curious history of kojic acid, discovered as a fungal natural product in 1907. It was one of the first secondary metabolites to have its biosynthetic pathway studied by the isotope tracer technique, and, more recently, has been of interest as a skin lightening agent. There are 112 references.

Aspergillus↗

Realizing the cosmetic potential of topical photodynamic therapy.

Several open studies report the efficacy of topical photodynamic therapy (PDT) for non-melanoma skin cancer (NMSC) and precursor lesions. PDT may also be effective in various inflammatory and infectious dermatoses. As a tissue sparing modality, PDT may be preferable for large and/or multiple lesions and those in sites where disfigurement or poor healing from conventional therapies is a particular risk. Limited comparison data confirms that topical PDT achieves superior cosmesis to conventional therapies in actinic keratoses, squamous cell carcinoma in-situ and basal cell carcinoma. This review assesses the current data and proposes potential future applications for topical PDT including the treatment of photo-damaged skin.

Cosmetic Techniques↗

Disposition and metabolism of topically administered alpha-tocopherol acetate: a common ingredient of commercially available sunscreens and cosmetics.

Skin cancers are a serious health problem in the United States. One common method of skin cancer primary prevention is use of sunscreens. Research has been conducted to ascertain the role of active ingredients of sunscreen products in photoprotection and possible carcinogenesis. In contrast, little is known about the "other ingredients", listed or unlisted, on sunscreen product labels. One such ingredient is vitamin E. usually in the form of alpha-tocopherol acetate. Results of recent studies of skin carcinogenesis in an ultraviolet (UV) B mouse carcinogenesis model suggest that topically applied alpha-tocopherol acetate does not prevent and, under some conditions, enhances skin cancer development and growth, whereas the free unesterified from of alpha-tocopherol significantly reduces experimental UVB carcinogenesis. We have performed a Phase II cancer prevention study to evaluate whether topically applied alpha-tocopherol acetate is absorbed in human skin and metabolizes to the free or other forms. In this double-blind study, 19 men and women > 30 years of age who had at least three actinic keratoses on their forearms were randomly assigned to apply alpha-tocopherol acetate (125 mg/g) or difluoromethylornithine cream to their arms twice daily for three months. Blood samples and photographs and punch biopsies of actinic keratoses were obtained before and at the end of the study (Month 4). Plasma and skin concentrations of free alpha-tocopherol, alpha-tocopherol acetate, and gamma-tocopherol were analyzed by high-performance liquid chromatography at Month 4. The results of this report focus only on data obtained from the 11 participants randomized to the alpha-tocopherol acetate arm of the study. Topically applied alpha-tocopherol acetate was substantially absorbed in skin, with no evidence of conversion within skin to its unesterified form (i.e., free alpha-tocopherol). There was no evidence of systemic availability or biotransformation of topically applied alpha-tocopherol acetate. In summary, we have determined that alpha-tocopherol acetate is not metabolized to the free form of alpha-tocopherol in plasma or skin.

Administration, Topical↗

Composition of eye cosmetics (kohls) used in Cairo.

A total of 18 kohl samples were analysed using X-ray powder diffraction (XRPD) and scanning electron microscopy (SEM). All the samples were purchased in Cairo and eleven of them originated in Egypt. The main component of six samples was found to be galena (PbS); where four of these samples originated in Egypt and two in India. For a further ten samples the main component was found to be one of the following: amorphous carbon, calcite (CaCO(3)), cuprite (Cu(2)O), goethite (FeO(OH)), elemental silicon or talc (Mg(3)Si(4)O(10)(OH)(2)). For the last two samples the main component of each was an unknown amorphous organic compound.

Carbon↗