Comedogenicity of cosmetics.
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The human skin penetration of N-nitroso-N-methyldodecylamine (NDOMA) from isopropyl myristate (IPM) and two vehicles representative of cosmetic/personal care formulations was determined in vitro. When applied as an infinite dose in IPM (1 microgram/microliter) the average total absorption over 48 hr was 0.10 +/- 0.01% of the applied dose (all data are expressed as means +/- SE). When applied as a finite dose in a representative oil-in-water emulsion formulation the average total absorption over 48 hr was 4.66 +/- 0.76% of the applied dose. When applied as a finite dose in a representative shampoo formulation for 10 min, followed by rinsing (to represent in-use exposure conditions), the average total absorption over 48 hr was 0.75 +/- 0.17% of the applied dose. Approximately 72% of the NDOMA in the applied shampoo formulation was removed by rinsing. The overall data indicated that NDOMA could penetrate the skin but that penetration was low. The rate and extent of absorption, however, could be affected by differences in the vehicle of application, time of exposure and whether the formulation is (and the conditions are designed to mimic) a rinse-off or leave-on product.
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Marinosomes are liposomes based on a natural marine lipid extract containing a high polyunsaturated fatty acid (PUFA) ratio. They were prepared and characterized in conditions that mimic that of topical application in terms of pH, temperature and calcium. Marinosomes were stable in storage conditions for 1 month. At low pH (pH 4) or in presence of high calcium concentrations (9 mM), complex structural rearrangements, such as aggregation and size reduction, occurred which were kinetically dependant.
Several O/W microemulsions, O/W and W/O emulsions and a W/O/W multiple emulsion were prepared using non-ionic, non-ethoxylated, skin compatible emulsifiers. Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) was added to the emulsified systems and its stability against oxidation was studied at 45.0 degrees C in aerobic conditions and compared with that in aqueous solutions at different pH values. All emulsified systems provided protection to ascorbic acid, as its degradation rate, which increased with increasing pH, was slower in emulsified systems than in aqueous solutions. The highest protection of ascorbic acid was when it was dissolved in the inner aqueous phase of the W/O/W multiple emulsion, both at 45 and at 20 degrees C for long storage. A pseudo first-order mechanism was hypothesised for ascorbic acid degradation in the experimental conditions for as long as abundant dissolved oxygen was present.
A total of 23 kohl samples was analyzed using X-ray powder diffraction (XRPD) and scanning electron microscopy (SEM). Nineteen samples were obtained in Abu Dhabi and four in Dubai. None of the samples were made in the United Arab Emirates. The main component of 11 samples was found to be galena (PbS). For the remaining 12 samples, the main component was found to be one of the following: amorphous carbon, zincite (ZnO), sassolite (H(3)BO(3)) or calcite/aragonite (CaCO(3)).
Women of color comprise many phenotypically heterogeneous groups. Despite the general heterogeneity, however, there are unique skin and hair care issues and needs. These issues often present therapeutically challenging problems for the dermatologist and the skin and hair care industry.
The skin-care industry has created myriad new products to meet the needs of an aging population. Novel "bioactive" ingredients are derived from the sea, the earth, and the plant kingdom. Popular ingredients include Chinese herbs, vitamins, minerals, antioxidants, enzymes, hormones, and a multitude of "naturals". For academic medicine, this avalanche of new products poses the task of establishing international safety standards for determining how much product efficacy is science-based and how much is marketing hype.
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