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Near-critical carbon dioxide extraction and liquid chromatography determination of UV filters in solid cosmetic samples: a green analytical procedure.

Near-critical carbon dioxide extraction of four UV filters used as sunscreens in lipsticks and makeup formulations is reported. Extraction parameters were optimized. Efficient recoveries were obtained after 15 min of dynamic extraction with a 80:20 CO2/ethanol mixture at 300 atm and 54 degrees C, using a 1.8 mL/min flow rate. Extracts were collected in ethanol, and appropriately diluted with ethanol and 1% acetic acid to obtain a 70:30 v/v ethanol/1% acetic acid solution. The four UV filters were determined by LC with gradient elution using ethanol/1% acetic acid as mobile phase. The accuracy of the analytical procedure was estimated by comparing the results with those obtained by methods based on classical extraction. The proposed method only requires the use of CO2, ethanol and acetic acid avoiding the use of more toxic organic solvents, thus it could be considered as both operator and environment friendly.

Carbon Dioxide↗

The value of a new filler material in corrective and cosmetic surgery: DermaLive and DermaDeep.

DermaLive is a long-term wrinkle reduction product including two types of components: pure hyaluronic acid, produced in cell culture, and an acrylic hydrogel. The product was first marketed in France and the rest of Europe in 1998. We have over three years of experience with this product. Several studies have been conducted simultaneously, mainly in Germany and in France. At present, DermaLive is used in the long-term correction of natural or acquired skin depressions (caused by aging, trauma) or the creation of volume (lips, sunken cheekbones). It provides a worthwhile alternative to good-quality bioresorbable materials (pure hyaluronic acid or collagen)--materials that are so resorbable, in fact, that most patients are ultimately dissatisfied with the results--and to other so-called permanent materials that patients do not tolerate well. Filling involving the use of autologous fat transplantations, which yields satisfactory results, is not appropriate for ambulatory injection and, therefore, will not be examined in detail. The tolerance experienced with DermaLive three years on is, at present, considered highly satisfactory. The wrinkle reduction effect obtained after the first injection is long-lasting with 60% resorption of the initial material. Two or three injections, with an interval of at least three months between each, may be required to bring about the reduction of some wrinkles or the correction of post-scar depressions. Side effects occurring long after the injection are rare (1.2 for 1,000). They appear mainly as palpable nodules occurring about six months after injection. They are treated by intralesional injection of corticoids. DermaLive and DermaDeep are both filler implants with a long-lasting effect designed for corrective and aesthetic surgery. Instruction of use and intervals between injection sessions must be respected. After DermaLive or DermaDeep injection, injections of pure hyaluronic acid (Juvederm or Restylane) for treatment of fine lines and superficial defects yield safe and excellent aesthetic results.

Animals↗