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[Cosmetic surgery among Norwegian women].

BACKGROUND: There are few data on the frequency of cosmetic surgery among Norwegian women. MATERIAL AND METHODS: A random sample of 2000 Norwegian women aged 22 to 55 received a questionnaire on cosmetic surgery, demographic data, self-esteem, and to what extent people around them accepted cosmetic surgery. RESULTS: The response rate was 46% (907 women). Of these, 7.7% indicated that they had undergone cosmetic surgery, while 22.6% wished to do so. Other people's degree of acceptance predicted both the wish to undergo cosmetic surgery and already conducted surgery. Low self-esteem was correlated with a wish to undergo surgery, though women who had done surgery had no lower self-esteem than non-patients. INTERPRETATIONS: Although the response rate was relatively low, this study gives the first reliable data on the frequency of cosmetic surgery in Norway. The results indicate that other people's degree of acceptance of cosmetic surgery is a predictor of such surgery being chosen.

Adult↗

The allergens in cosmetics.

The ingredients responsible for allergy to cosmetics were determined in 119 patients suffering from cosmetic-related contact dermatitis. Most reactions (56.3%) were caused by skin care products, followed by nail cosmetics (13.4%), perfumes (8.4%), and hair cosmetics (5.9%). Preservatives were most frequently implicated (32.0%), followed by fragrances (26.5%) and emulsifiers (14.3%). By far the most important cosmetic allergen was Kathon CG, (a preservative system containing, as active ingredients, a mixture of methylisothiazolinone and methyl chloroisothiazolinone) reacting in 33 patients (27.7%). Other frequent causes of cosmetic-related contact allergic reactions were toluenesulfonamide/formaldehyde resin in nail hardener and/or nail lacquer (15 patients [12.6%]), and oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, an emulsifier in baby body lotion (13 patients [10.9%]).

Adolescent↗

Endocrine disrupters and human health: could oestrogenic chemicals in body care cosmetics adversely affect breast cancer incidence in women?

In the decade that has elapsed since the suggestion that exposure of the foetal/developing male to environmental oestrogens could be the cause of subsequent reproductive and developmental effects in men, there has been little definitive research to provide conclusions to the hypothesis. Issues of exposure and low potency of environmental oestrogens may have reduced concerns. However, the hypothesis that chemicals applied in body care cosmetics (including moisturizers, creams, sprays or lotions applied to axilla or chest or breast areas) may be affecting breast cancer incidence in women presents a different case scenario, not least in the consideration of the exposure issues. The specific cosmetic type is not relevant but the chemical ingredients in the formulations and the application to the skin is important. The most common group of body care cosmetic formulation excipients, namely p-hydroxybenzoic acid esters or parabens, have been shown recently to be oestrogenic in vitro and in vivo and now have been detected in human breast tumour tissue, indicating absorption (route and causal associations have yet to be confirmed). The hypothesis for a link between oestrogenic ingredients in underarm and body care cosmetics and breast cancer is forwarded and reviewed here in terms of: data on exposure to body care cosmetics and parabens, including dermal absorption; paraben oestrogenicity; the role of oestrogen in breast cancer; detection of parabens in breast tumours; recent epidemiology studies of underarm cosmetics use and breast cancer; the toxicology database; the current regulatory status of parabens and regulatory toxicology data uncertainties. Notwithstanding the major public health issue of the causes of the rising incidence of breast cancer in women, this call for further research may provide the first evidence that environmental factors may be adversely affecting human health by endocrine disruption, because exposure to oestrogenic chemicals through application of body care products (unlike diffuse environmental chemical exposures) should be amenable to evaluation, quantification and control. The exposure issues are clear and the exposed population is large, and these factors should provide the necessary impetus to investigate this potential issue of public health.

Breast Neoplasms↗

Ethnopharmacognostic survey on the natural ingredients used in folk cosmetics, cosmeceuticals and remedies for healing skin diseases in the inland Marches, Central-Eastern Italy.

An ethnopharmaceutical study focused on domestic cosmetics, cosmeceuticals, and remedies to heal skin diseases traditionally used in the inland part of the Marches region (Central-Eastern Italy) has been conducted. At present, traditional knowledge concerning home-made phytocosmetics is represented by both the remnants of an orally transmitted folk heritage and also by new forms of knowledge, sometimes coming from popular phytotherapeutical books and the mass media (out of the scope of this survey), but also as a result of recent migration trends from Eastern Europe. We recorded approximately 135 cosmetic or cosmeceutical preparations prepared from more than 70 botanical species and a very few animal or mineral ingredients. Among the recorded preparations, developing a clear distinction amongst cosmetics, cosmeceuticals and pharmaceuticals for skin diseases is very problematic, confirming that in folk knowledge systems medicinal products for healing skin diseases and cosmetics have often been perceived as two poles of a continuum. Many of the quoted species represented well-known medicinal plants of the European phytotherapy, although we also recorded a few unusual plant taxa, which are briefly discussed under the perspective of their eventual phytochemical and/or phytopharmacological potentialities. Exotic drugs or precious essences, even native of the Mediterranean, were not quoted as ingredients for preparing perfumes and fragrances by the interviewees of the present study, thus indicating that popular cosmetic practices in rural Central Italy have taken a much separated path away from the cosmetic "know-how" of the aristocracy and high bourgeois classes of the last centuries.

Cosmetics↗

Determination of hydroquinone in cosmetic emulsion using microdialysis sampling coupled with high-performance liquid chromatography.

A method based on microdialysis sampling combined with high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) has been developed for the determination of hydroquinone in cosmetic emulsion. In microdialysis sampling, using deionized water as perfusate, a probe length of 10mm and dialysis flow-rate of 5 microl min(-1) were found to be the optimum conditions for the analysis. The accuracy (% bias) for intra-day (n=3) and inter-day (n=12, four consecutive days) ranged from -9.5 to 13.0% with a precision less than 7.55% relative standard deviation (R.S.D.). Recovery obtained between 89 and 112% by adding hydroquinone standards into medicated cosmetics and the coefficients of variance between 0.5 and 3.3%. The linearity of calibration curve is in the range of 2 microM-2 mM with an R(2) value for the linear regression of 0.9981. The detection limit is 0.2 microM derived from the three times of signal-to-noise ratio. This method has been applied to determine the hydroquinone content in medicated and non-medicated cosmetics. The contents of hydroquinone in the medicated cosmetics are 5.36% (0.12% R.S.D., n=3) and 3.85% (0.26% R.S.D., n=3), respectively; in contrast to the percentages given by the manufacturer are 5 and 4%, the accuracy (% bias) are 7.20 and 3.75%, respectively. No hydroquinone was detected in non-medicated cosmetics. The proposed method has the advantages of easy sample pretreatment, rapid isolation and lower organic solvent consumption than in other methods for the determination of hydroquinone in cosmetics.

Calibration↗

Safety assessment on polyethylene glycols (PEGs) and their derivatives as used in cosmetic products.

This assessment focusses on polyethylene glycols (PEGs) and on anionic or nonionic PEG derivatives, which are currently used in cosmetics in Europe. These compounds are used in a great variety of cosmetic applications because of their solubility and viscosity properties, and because of their low toxicity. The PEGs, their ethers, and their fatty acid esters produce little or no ocular or dermal irritation and have extremely low acute and chronic toxicities. They do not readily penetrate intact skin, and in view of the wide use of preparations containing PEG and PEG derivatives, only few case reports on sensitisation reactions have been published, mainly involving patients with exposure to PEGs in medicines or following exposure to injured or chronically inflamed skin. On healthy skin, the sensitising potential of these compounds appears to be negligible. For some representative substances of this class, information was available on reproductive and developmental toxicity, on genotoxicty and carcinogenic properties. Taking into consideration all available information from related compounds, as well as the mode and mechanism of action, no safety concern with regard to these endpoints could be identified. Based on the available data it is therefore concluded that PEGs of a wide molecular weight range (200 to over 10,000), their ethers (laureths. ceteths, ceteareths, steareths, and oleths), and fatty acid esters (laurates, dilaurates, stearates, distearates) are safe for use in cosmetics. Limited data were available for PEG sorbitan/sorbitol fatty acid esters, PEG sorbitan beeswax and PEG soy sterols. Taking into account all the information available for closely related compounds, it can be assumed that these compounds as presently used in cosmetic preparations will not present a risk for human health. PEG castor oils and PEG hydrogenated castor oils have caused anaphylactic reactions when used in intravenous medicinal products. Their topical use in cosmetics is, however, considered safe as they are not expected to be systemically available. As all PEGs and PEG derivatives, they must not be applied to damaged skin. Manufacturers of PEGs and PEG derivatives must continue their efforts to remove impurities and by-products such as ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane. Overall, it is concluded, that the PEGs covered in this review are safe for use in cosmetics under the present conditions of intended use.

Animals↗

Comedogenicity of current therapeutic products, cosmetics, and ingredients in the rabbit ear.

Cosmetics continue to be used by acne-prone individuals. Often as more acne develops, more cosmetics are applied. In order to protect against this natural tendency, physicians should provide more patient information on the currently available products and ingredients. This presentation is designed to help in that effort. The data presented were gleaned from the rabbit ear assay, which is not an ideal animal model but is the best we have. If an ingredient is negative in the rabbit ear assay, we feel it is safe on the acne-prone skin. A strong, positive ingredient or cosmetic should be avoided. Ingredient offenders include isopropyl myristate and its analogs, such as isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl isostearate, butyl stearate, isostearyl neopentanoate, myristyl myristate, decyl oleate, octyl stearate, octyl palmitate or isocetyl stearate, and new introductions by the cosmetic industry, such as propylene glycol-2 (PPG-2) myristyl propionate. Lanolins continue to be a problem, especially derivatives such as acetylated or ethoxylated lanolins. Our most troublesome recent finding is the comedogenic potential of the D & C Red dyes. They are universally used in the cosmetic industry, especially in blushers. This may explain the predominance of cosmetic acne in the cheekbone area. All of these D & C Red dyes tested to date, the xanthenes, monoazoanilines, fluorans, and indigoids, are comedogenic. Actually, this is not surprising as they are coal tar derivatives. The natural red pigment, carmine, is noncomedogenic and can serve as a substitute for D & C dyes in blushers. Many finished products are comedogenic. Most troublesome to the dermatologists are the therapeutic tools that we use, such as Liquimat, Retin-A cream, Hytone, Staticin, Sulfoxl, Desquam-X, and Persadox HP cream. These should be reformulated. We have been unable to confirm that precipitated sulfur (U.S.P.) is a potent comedogen in the rabbit ear assay. Clinically, we still find sulfur quite effective as an adjuvant to the benzoyl peroxide therapy for the treatment of acne vulgaris. We would suggest that the bias against sulfur be reconsidered.

Acne Vulgaris↗

Final amended report on the safety assessment of oxyquinoline and oxyquinoline sulfate as used in cosmetics.

Oxyquinoline is a heterocyclic phenol and Oxyquinoline Sulfate is its salt, both of which are described as cosmetic biocides for use in cosmetic formulations. In an earlier Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) safety assessment, the available data were found insufficient to support safety. Currently, some uses are reported to the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) by industry, but industry reports to CIR indicate no use. In Europe, Oxyquinoline and Oxyquinoline Sulfate are accepted for use as stabilizers for hydrogen peroxide in rinse-off and leave-on hair care preparations, with concentration limitations. Oxyquinoline is metabolized and excreted in the urine as glucuronides. Oxyquinoline and Oxyquinoline Sulfate exhibit little acute or subchronic toxicity in animal studies. A 100-mg dose of Oxyquinoline was only slightly irritating to the eye. Oxyquinoline and Oxyquinoline Sulfate were genotoxic in certain Salmonella typhimirium strains with metabolic activation and in a mouse lymphoma assay. There was some evidence of increased chromosome aberrations in an in vitro study, and an increase in sister-chromatid exchanges (but not chromosome aberrations) in rats treated with Oxyquinoline, but no genotoxicity was found in a Drosophilia sex-linked recessive lethal test, mouse bone marrow micronucleus test, a rat bone marrow and hepatocyte micronucleus test, and unscheduled DNA synthesis in rat hepatocytes. Oxyquinoline did bind to DNA in the presence of liver enzymes. Although the International Agency for Research on Cancer concluded that the existing evidence is inadequate to determine carcinogenicity in animals, Oxyquinoline was noncarcinogenic in several rodent feeding studies, and newly available studies using genetically altered mice, in one case carrying the human c-Ha-ras gene, demonstrated that Oxyquinoline was not carcinogenic. In clinical tests, Oxyquinoline is neither an irritant nor a sensitizer when tested at 1% in petrolatum. The available data demonstrate that Oxyquinoline and Oxyquinoline Sulfate are safe as stabilizers for hydrogen peroxide in rinse-off hair care cosmetic products in the present practices of use. For leave-on cosmetic products, however, the absence of impurities and ultraviolet (UV) absorption data resulted in a finding that the available data are insufficient to support safety. The data needed in order to complete the safety assessment of Oxyquinoline and Oxyquinoline Sulfate in leave-on cosmetic products are (1) UV absorption data -- if significant absorption occurs, then photoirritation/photosensitization data will be needed; and (2) data on impurities.

Administration, Topical↗

Body dysmorphic disorder and cosmetic surgery.

BACKGROUND: Body dysmorphic disorder is a relatively common psychiatric disorder among persons who seek cosmetic surgical and minimally invasive treatments. METHODS: This article reviews the history of the diagnosis and the current diagnostic criteria. Etiologic theories, clinical and demographic characteristics, and comorbidity, including the relationship of body dysmorphic disorder to obsessive-compulsive spectrum and impulse control disorders, are discussed. The prevalence of body dysmorphic disorder in cosmetic populations is highlighted. Treatments for body dysmorphic disorder, including medical, psychiatric, and psychological interventions, are reviewed. RESULTS: Body dysmorphic disorder is an often severe, impairing disorder. Among patients presenting for cosmetic treatments, 7 to 15 percent may suffer from the condition. Retrospective outcome studies suggest that persons with body dysmorphic disorder typically do not benefit from cosmetic procedures. Pharmacotherapy and cognitive-behavioral psychotherapy, in contrast, appear to be effective treatments for body dysmorphic disorder. CONCLUSIONS: Because of the frequency with which persons with body dysmorphic disorder pursue cosmetic procedures, providers of cosmetic surgical and minimally invasive treatments may be able to identify and refer these patients for appropriate mental health care. Directions for future research are suggested.

Cosmetic Techniques↗

Comparison of preoperative anxiety in reconstructive and cosmetic surgery patients.

Surgery is a serious stressor and a cause of anxiety for the patients. Reconstructive surgery patients are mostly operated on because of certain functional impairment or disability; on the contrary, cosmetic surgery patients do not have any physical impairment and they are operated on because of mostly psychologic reasons. The aim of this study was to compare the anxiety levels in the reconstructive surgery patients and cosmetic surgery patients preoperatively. Thirty-two patients in the reconstructive surgery group and 30 patients in the cosmetic surgery group were included in the study. State Trait Anxiety Inventory was used to measure the anxiety levels in these 2 groups preoperatively. The 2 groups were similar in characteristics such as age, gender distribution, number of previous operations, and trait anxiety scores. Mean state anxiety scores obtained for the reconstructive surgery group was 38.0 +/- 8.7, while it was 44.2 +/- 10.79 for the cosmetic surgery group (t test, degrees of freedom = 60, P = 0.015). This study reveals that preoperative anxiety levels in the cosmetic surgery patients are higher than those of the reconstructive surgery patients. Therefore, adequate preoperative preparation for cosmetic surgery should include attempts to cope with anxiety. Anxiolytics may be used more liberally and professional psychologic assistance may be required.

Adult↗

Immediate and delayed reactions to cosmetic ingredients.

The purpose of this study was to investigate the incidence and etiology of cutaneous reactions caused by cosmetics, with an emphasis on perfume sensitivity. 19 control subjects and 31 patch test clinic patients (16 with a history of adverse cosmetic reactions) were examined for sensitivity by history, open and patch testing using the North American Contact Dermatitis Group (NACDG) fragrance screening series and 11 other common allergens found in cosmetics. Contact urticaria was very frequent to certain chemicals; however, patients with a history of cosmetic sensitivity were not found to have a significant increase in positive reactions when compared to controls or patients with eczematous skin. 12 subjects had positive patch test reactions, most of which were not clinically relevant. 3 patients with a history of cosmetic sensitivity had positive reactions, only 1 of which was in the fragrance screening series (cinnamic alcohol). There were 6 reactions in patients with eczematous skin, 4 of which were to preservatives. 3 controls had positive reactions, each to thimerosal. A history of cosmetic sensitivity was not confirmed by open and closed skin testing in our subjects.

Cosmetics↗

The role of contact allergy in the spectrum of adverse effects caused by cosmetics and toiletries.

Of 982 female clients of beauticians interviewed, 254 (25.9%) claimed to have experienced adverse reactions to cosmetics and toiletries in the preceding 5 years. Most reactions were caused by skin-care products (36.6%), followed by personal cleanliness products (29.5%), eye cosmetics (24.0%), deodorants and antiperspirants (12.6%), and facial make-up products (8.3%). 150 women were patch tested. In the European standard series, only a few positive reactions were seen to possible cosmetic allergens: fragrance mix (n = 3), wool alcohols (n = 3), formaldehyde (n = 2), balsam of Peru (n = 1), and colophony (n = 1). In the cosmetic series, only Kathon CG elicited positive patch test reactions (n = 3). Cosmetic allergy was considered to be "proven" in 3 patients (2.0%), and "possible" in 7 (4.7%). It is concluded that contact allergy is responsible for a minority (less than 10%) of all reactions to cosmetics and toiletries. The majority of reactions are due to irritation from personal cleanliness products such as soaps, shampoos, bath foams and from deodorants, or worsening of pre-existing dermatoses such as seborrhoeic dermatitis and acne.

Adolescent↗

Contents of methyl-, ethyl-, propyl-, butyl- and benzylparaben in cosmetic products.

The contents of methyl-, ethyl-, propyl-, butyl- and benzylparaben in 215 cosmetic products have been determined to elucidate the concentration and frequency of use of these parabens in cosmetic products, and to monitor whether the products complied with the Danish and EEC regulations. The results showed that 77% of the products investigated contained 0.01%-0.87% parabens. Nearly all (99%) of the leave-on cosmetics and 77% of rinse-off cosmetics were found to contain parabens. A maximum of 0.32% methyl- and propylparaben, 0.19% ethylparaben, and 0.07% butyl- and benzylparaben were present in paraben-positive cosmetics. A preferential use of methyl-/ethyl-/propyl-/butyl-/benzylparaben in various groups of cosmetic products was revealed.

Chromatography, High Pressure Liquid↗

Cosmetic psychopharmacology and the President's Council on Bioethics.

Advances in neuroscience and biotechnology have heightened the urgency of the debate over "cosmetic psychopharmacology," the use of drugs to enhance mood and temperament in the absence of illness. Beyond Therapy: Biotechnology and the Pursuit of Happiness (2003), the report of the President's Council on Bioethics, has criticized the use of cosmetic psychopharmacology. The Council claimed that cosmetic psychopharmacology will necessarily lead to "severing the link between feelings of happiness and our actions and experiences in the world," but it provided no satisfactory arguments to support this claim and ignored the possibility that cosmetic psychopharmacology might actually enhance the link between happiness and experience. The Council's arguments against cosmetic psychopharmacology depend heavily on the mistaken belief that Prozac and similar antidepressants are mood brighteners in healthy subjects. The empirical evidence, however, clearly indicates that these drugs are not forms of cosmetic psychopharmacology, thus negating much of the Council's arguments. The use of pharmaceutical agents to enhance mood or personality in normal individuals should not be rejected a priori. Instead, the effects of each agent on the individual and on society must be weighed using sound ethical reasoning and the best evidence available.

Advisory Committees↗

Microbiological analysis of cosmetics.

Cosmetics are products of chemical or natural origin dedicated specifically for use in skin and mucosa. The constant development of the cosmetic industry has generated the necessity to carry out microbiological analysis on the raw materials used in the industrial production of cosmetics as well as the final products, with the purpose of obtaining products of good microbiological quality. Cosmetic products are recognized to be substrates for the survival and development of a large variety of microorganisms, since they possess some of the nutrients that facilitate growth such as: lipids, polysaccharides, alcohol, proteins, amino acids, glucosides, esteroids, peptides, and vitamins. Also, the conditions of readiness (oxygenation, pH, temperature, osmotic degree, superficial activity, perfume, and essential oils) present in the cosmetic products favor microbial multiplication. Routine analyses to determine the microbiological quality of a cosmetic product include the following: Count of mesophilic aerobic microorganisms. Most probable number (MPN) of total coliforms. Count of molds and yeasts. Absence/presence of Staphylococcus aureus probe. Absence/presence of Pseudomonas aeruginosa probe.

Bacteriological Techniques↗

[Supervision of cosmetic products].

In connection with adaptation of Polish law to UE regulations, there were presented rules of supervision organisation over cosmetic products in Poland and supervision in selected Member States. There were also shown problems, that appear the most often during supervision. Present day, in Poland supervision over cosmetics is made in two-stage way. There is the pre-market control--registration products in National Institute of Hygiene (PZH) and in the market control conducted by the sanitary-epidemiological stations. In UE countries only in-market control exists. There were also defined rules of supervision in Poland, after putting Act on Cosmetics into force. Due to, on the basic on Directive 76/768/EEC there were prepared lists: the substances forbidden to be used in cosmetics, permitted to be used in cosmetics only with restrictions, allowed colouring agents, preservatives and UV filters. These lists will be included in Act on Cosmetics, as regulation.

Consumer Behavior↗

[Expected change of direction in Polish law regarding cosmetics].

In connection with adaptation of Polish law to UE regulations, new Polish Act on cosmetics was published. There were also prepared regulations concerning: lists the substances forbidden to be used in cosmetics, permitted to be used in cosmetics only with restrictions, allowed colouring agents, preservatives and UV filters, rules of non-inclusion of one or more ingredients on the list used for the labelling, establishing National System for Informing about Cosmetics and methods of analysis necessary for checking the composition of cosmetic products. Publication in Official Journal of the European Union L. 66/26 Directive 2003/15/EC shows direction necessary changes in Polish Act on cosmetics.

Chemical Industry↗

Leaded eye cosmetics: a cultural cause of elevated lead levels in children.

BACKGROUND: Preventing lead exposure is of paramount importance because lead is significantly toxic at subclinical levels, and treating patients with elevated blood lead levels is difficult. Children were evaluated for lead exposure in California through a state-mandated lead screening program that was begun in November 1991. Imported eye cosmetics were identified as a suspected source of lead exposure for Pakistani and Indian children who used these products. METHODS: A retrospective chart review of children at a county hospital clinic was undertaken for the period beginning October 1991 and ending February 1994. Lead exposure questionnaires were filled out at clinic visits, and telephone interviews were conducted with parents or guardians of children from ethnic groups who use eye cosmetics. RESULTS: Lead level results were available for 175 children. The average lead level was 4.3 micrograms/dL (0.21 mumol/L) for Pakistani/Indian children not using eye cosmetics and 12.9 micrograms/dL (0.62 mumol/L) (P = .03) for those using the products. Chemical evaluation of some of the eye cosmetics used by these children revealed high lead content. CONCLUSIONS: Use of eye cosmetics imported from Pakistan was found to be strongly correlated with elevated blood lead levels. Although importation of leaded eye cosmetics is prohibited by law, legislation has not been effective in protecting children from this source of lead exposure. Education regarding low-level lead toxicity and avoidance of substances containing lead is needed, particularly for targeted subpopulations.

Child, Preschool↗