[The modern concepts of phyto-aromatherapy].
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Fragrance is the most common cause of cosmetic allergic contact dermatitis. Fragrance allergy detection is best accomplished by testing with the fragrance mixture, balsam of Peru, and either jasmine synthetic or absolute. It would be desirable to have common fragrance allergens listed on cosmetic labels so that patients could avoid the allergens to which they are allergic.
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Several ingredients used in skin products have been criticized as being excessively harsh, allergenic, or otherwise unsuitable for use, especially in the elderly population. Preservatives, in particular, have been condemned, leading to a proliferation of "preservative-free" products. Other descriptive/promotional phrases with negative connotations are "fragrance-free" and "emulsifier-free." Inferences regarding these designations might suggest that preservatives, fragrances, emulsifiers, and a number of other ingredients serve no important function, are superfluous in terms of product quality, and, therefore, should be left out of all skin products. While this is obviously not the case, neither is the obverse. Ingredients used in skin care products should be carefully chosen to support or maintain the overall effectiveness and utility of the product, and the concentration of such ingredients should be given careful consideration. After briefly reviewing skin structure and changes that occur during aging, this article examines the concept of product quality. Major nondrug ingredient categories will be addressed, including the reasons for using such ingredients in skin care products, the products in which they are required, the limitations and choices available within each category, and guidelines for product selection.
A gas chromatographic method using a capillary column with electron capture detection was developed for the simultaneous determination of 3 nitromusk fragrance ingredients: musk ambrette (MA), musk xylol (MX), and musk ketone (MK), in fragrance products. The accuracy of the method was determined by recovery of each nitromusk from fortified fragrance products at 3 different concentrations. Recoveries ranged from 95.0 to 105.9% for MA, 88.4 to 102.5% for MX, and 93.7 to 103.7% for MK. The method was used to survey 30 fragrance products purchased in the Washington, DC, area for each of the nitromusks. MA was not found in any of the products. MX was found in 9 products at levels ranging from 0.001 to 0.22%; MK was found in 8 products at levels ranging from 0.023 to 0.45%. The presence of MX and MK was confirmed by gas chromatography/mass spectrometry in many of the fragrance products.
About a preliminary study of patch-test in 39 cases of contact dermatitis with allergens of international Contact Dermatitis Research (ICDRG), the authors noted 27 (69.2%) positive patch-tests. Men are frequently exposed to formaldehyde and dichromate potassium. Women are more exposed to fragrance-mix and formaldehyde. Hand workers have the uppermost percentage of positive patch-test (90.9%). The authors observed also 16 cases of contact polysensitivity for at least two allergens.
BACKGROUND: In Switzerland, Germany, and Austria, allergic reactions to balsam of Peru (BP) have now made it the third most common contact allergen. OBJECTIVE: A series of 20 single BP constituents (including resorcinol monobenzoate), established in 1995, was used for patch tests in patients with a positive reaction to BP in the standard series. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Between 1995 and 1998, 2,273 patients were tested with the standard series, including BP, fragrance mix (FM), and propolis. Patients positive for BP were requested to participate in a further test using the 19 compounds of the BP constituents and resorcin monobenzoate (BP series); 102 patients agreed and were patch tested. The results of the 72-hour reading were used for the evaluation. RESULTS: A total of 93 patients reacted to 1 or more of the BP series compounds. Positive reactions were seen, in decreasing order, to cinnamic alcohol, cinnamic acid, coniferyl benzoate, benzoic acid, cinnamyl cinnamate, eugenol, resorcinol monobenzoate, coniferyl alcohol, and benzyl alcohol. There were no positive reactions to vanillin or ferulic acid. A correlation between skin lesions and frequent consumption of sweets was found in 7 patients with major positive test reactions to coniferyl benzoate and benzyl alcohol. Most of the reactions to eugenol and isoeugenol had less to do with BP itself than with a primary sensitization to fragrances. Although resorcin monobenzoate (RMB) has up to now not been detected in BP, 16 patients reacted distinctly to this compound. Eleven were strong smokers; the remaining ones had contact with plastic materials that have been reported to contain RMB. RMB is used frequently as an antioxidant in synthetic material. When these patients stopped smoking, the skin lesions cleared. However, consumption of sweets caused recurrences. CONCLUSION: The evaluation of reactions to single constituents of BP by testing with the special BP series facilitates understanding how sensitization may be acquired. The allergen may prove to be BP itself or 1 or more of its constituents. Testing for the constituents of this series may provide patients with a more specific allergen diagnosis and may facilitate improved therapy. BP may function as an important indicator for contact allergy to RMB.
A gas chromatographic (GC) method is described for the determination of coumarin in fragrance products. Coumarin was tentatively identified by retention time and confirmed by GC/mass spectrometry. The amount of coumarin was determined by external standard. The method was validated by conducting recovery studies from fortified fragrance products at several concentrations. Recoveries of coumarin ranged from 99 to 110%, with a relative standard deviation of 3.24. The method was used to survey a variety of fragrance products purchased in the metropolitan Washington, DC area, for coumarin. Seventy one percent of the products were found to contain coumarin at concentrations ranging from 0.002 to 0.61%.
In spite of extensive self-regulation of the fragrance industry, fragrance ingredients are still major causes of allergic contact dermatitis. There are indications that the problem is increasing in some countries, and that many nonregulated compounds are involved in the development of allergies. The use of essential oils in fragrance compounds might add both allergenic and carcinogenic compounds to a product and the exact composition of such ingredients is difficult to control. Herein, we propose a simple strategy to decrease the risk of adverse effects of fragrance ingredients in cosmetic products. This strategy consists of four major steps: (1) limit the concentration of fragrance compound in the products, (2) follow legislation and guidelines, (3) limit the concentration of a number of well-known sensitizing fragrance chemicals, and (4) limit the concentration of essential oils and materials with unknown composition. The strategy is discussed as an alternative to animal testing and in relation to other more resource-demanding approaches to the same problem.
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