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[Optimizing the effect of a cosmetic care product on the human skin].

After explaining the idea and purpose of cosmetic products, we report on the course of development these products usually take: marketing briefing, selection of the raw materials, serial experiments and stability tests, and finally, dermatophysiological efficacy tests. In particular, we deal with the application of adenosine triphosphate (ATP) and its moisturing and smoothing effect on human skin. Our results are discussed in detail.

Adenosine Triphosphate↗

Elastin powder produced for cosmetic purposes does not affect formation of granulation tissue.

A suspension of elastin powder that is produced for cosmetic purposes has been applied on open skin wounds made in rats. Elastin particles (diameter smaller than 0.1 mm) prepared by extraction of bovine nuchal ligament with alkali had no effect on wet weight and dry weight of granulation tissue formed in the wound within 6 days. Hydroxyproline content which indicates collagen content of the granulation tissue was not also changed.

Animals↗

Rapid bacteriological screening of cosmetic raw materials by using bioluminescence.

Incoming cosmetic raw materials are routinely tested for microbial content. Standard plate count methods require up to 72 h. A rapid, sensitive, and inexpensive raw material screening method was developed that detects the presence of bacteria by means of ATP (bioluminescence). With a 24-h broth enrichment, the minimum bacterial ATP detection threshold of 1 cfu/g sample can be achieved using purified firefly luciferin-luciferase and an ATP releasing reagent. By using this rapid screen, microbiologically free material may be released for production within 24 h, while contaminated material undergoes further quantitative and identification testing. In order for a raw material to be validated for this method it must be evaluated for (1) a potential nonmicrobial light-contributing reaction resulting in a false positive or, (2) degradation of the ATP giving a false negative, and (3) confirmation that the raw material has not overwhelmed the buffering capacity of the enrichment broth. The key criteria for a rapid screen was the sensitivity to detect less than one colony forming unit per g product, the speed to do this within 24 h, and cost efficiency. Bioluminescence meets these criteria. With an enrichment step, it can detect less than one cfu/g sample. After the enrichment step, analysis time per sample is approximately 2 min and the cost for material and reagents is less than one dollar per sample.

Bacteriological Techniques↗

Testing of cosmetics and toiletries.

Cosmetics and toiletries are indispensable everyday products used by the vast majority of the population. Evaluation of safety is needed to reduce the risk of side effects from intentional and unintentional use. This paper describes factors involved in the choice of test strategy for determining the dermatotoxicological profile of the products. Emphasis is placed on tests for skin irritation, contact allergy, acne and subjective symptoms elicited by the products.

Acne Vulgaris↗

Corrective cosmetics adjunctive to the fields of ophthalmology and plastic surgery.

An effective, stable cosmetic cover creme useful for ophthalmologists is presented. In a series of 52 patients, there was a high degree of patient acceptance. If properly used, the creme is effective and involves minimal risk because it has been subjected to sensitivity, photosensitivity, comedogenic, and sun blocking tests. The author recommends this camouflage creme for adjunctive use.

Acne Vulgaris↗

Sudan I as a cause of pigmented contact dermatitis in "kumkum" (an Indian cosmetic).

"Kumkums" are coloured cosmetics frequently applied to the center of the forehead by Hindu women. Pigmented allergic contact dermatitis to "kumkum" was reported recently. It was associated with Brilliant Lake Red R and Sudan I allergy. These might be the causative allergens. Three of 7 brands of red "kumkums" analyzed by gas chromatography-mass spectrophotometry were found to contain various concentrations of Sudan I. They ranged from 2.789 mg/gm to 8.694 mg/gm. Sudan I is probably the cause of pigmented allergic contact dermatitis in red "kumkum".

Cosmetics↗

Corrective cosmetics-need, evaluation and use.

A comprehensive discussion of the need for, history, evaluation, and use of corrective cosmetics should also address image and its psychological impact, the attributes of an effective and acceptable concealer, and the methods of application.

Adolescent↗

Determination of p-hydroxybenzoic acid esters in cosmetics by liquid chromatography with ultraviolet and fluorescence detection.

A simple, precise, and accurate liquid chromatographic method with both ultraviolet (UV) and fluorescence detection is described for the determination of methyl, ethyl, propyl, and butyl p-hydroxybenzoates (PHBA-esters) in cosmetics. sec-Butyl p-hydroxybenzoate is added to the sample as an internal standard. Then the PHBA-esters are extracted with ether, the ether is evaporated to dryness, and the residue is dissolved in 60% (v/v) acetonitrile. The acetonitrile solution is passed through a Sep-Pak C18 cartridge to remove co-extracted lipids. PHBA-esters are determined by reverse-phase liquid chromatography with UV detection at 254 nm and fluorescence detection at ex 280 nm, em 305 nm. The mobile phase is acetonitrile-water (35 + 65). The method was linear over the concentration range of 0.005-0.15 mg/mL. Mean recoveries of each PHBA-ester were 98.9-102.7% (coefficients of variation less than or equal to 2.0%).

Chromatography, Liquid↗

Adverse reactions to cosmetics.

Adverse reactions to cosmetics can be irritant or allergic and are most often caused by fragrances or preservatives. Preservatives include formaldehyde, formaldehyde releasers, and parabens. Other agents that cause allergy are paraphenylenediamine in hair dyes and toluene sulfonamide formaldehyde resin in nail polishes.

Cosmetics↗

Exogenous factors affecting the nails. Cosmetics, trauma, and occupational influences.

The external factors associated with nail disorders are multiple. Although not totally inclusive, this discussion has presented the more common cosmetic, traumatic, and industrial causes of nail disorders. Several common entities, such as the brown staining of fingernails in heavy tobacco smokers, have been omitted intentionally because little difficulty is encountered in determining their cause. Therefore, in evaluating a patient with abnormal nails, one should consider various external factors in addition to primary disease processes. Patch testing to determine if contact sensitivity is involved, in addition to a careful investigation of habits, employment, and exposures is mandatory.

Cosmetics↗

[Nail dyschromia as the leading symptom in chronic mercury poisoning caused by a cosmetic bleaching preparation].

Prolonged use of a cosmetic cream containing mercury induced a greenish black nail discoloration in a 56-years-old female patient. Electron microscopy as well as energy-dispersive X-ray analysis identified mercury in the cells of the nail plate. The patient showed mild symptoms of a chronic mercury intoxication with high levels of mercury in serum and urine. Treatment with 2,3-dimercaptopropane-1-sulfonate was effective and well tolerated.

Chronic Disease↗

[Determination of acetate ion in cosmetics containing lead diacetate (author's transl)].

A method is described through which acetate ion in cosmetics is determined, in order to establish lead diacetate contents. Lead, from sample aqueous solutions is precipitated by 1 M oxalic acid and the resulting free acetic acid is determined via GLC, using propionic acid as internal standard. The lead neutral acetate contents resulting either from gas-chromatographic or lead titrimetric determinations are in good agreement. A typical gas-chromatogram is also reported.

Acetates↗

[Methods of identifying carcinogenic factors in medication, food and cosmetics].

The removal of carconogenic factors would be a most efficient measure to prevent cancer. As far as known chemicals are concerned, every effort is made to avert them, or at least to reduce the exposure to such compounds, but is necessary to detect unknown chemicals, especially those, drugs and foodstuffs for example, to which large populations are exposed. Giving suspected chemicals to laboratory animals is a standard carcinogenicity test. Studies of the carcinogenicity of unknown chemicals in animals are time consuming, expensive and cumbersome. This is why other means of establishing carcinogenicity are sought for. Several rapid tests are available to-day to select suspected carcinogens. These methods aim primarily at determining with chemicals--at the cell or tissue level--certain changes that would appear essential to trigger the carcinogenic process, such as somatic mutations. Studies are used on the mutagenicity of chemicals for bacteria of the Salmonella type, for yeast and cultured mammalian cells, together with the induction of recessive lethal mutations in Drosophila and of the unscheduled repair synthesis of DNA and the transformation of mammalian cells in vitro. Although there is an unequivocal correlation between the activity of chemicals in such tests and their carcinogenicity, discrepancies are found. Thus, the in vivo tests on laboratory animals remain the most reliable method to determine carcinogenicity. Whereas direct extrapolation of experimental data to human pathology is impossible, the experimental evidence of the carcinogenicity of any chemical should allow us to draw constructive conclusions. We shall never be able to reject drugs which produce the expected results and cannot be replaced by other drugs. But we can must the drugs whose beneficial effects are not exceptional and which can be replaced by other chemicals. As for the chemicals used in food additives and cosmetics, and recognized as carcinogenic in animals, they should be totally given up. Any decision made should be based on animal studies.

Animals↗

[Prophylaxis of patients with sensitization to chrome and nickel using a cosmetic preparation for topical use].

Firstly we showed the reason for the choice of each product used in the preparation of this cosmetic. After this we studied "in vitro" the effect of this preparation, and "in vivo" in 25 patients sensitive to Potassium dichromate. On seeing the null effect of this preparation, owing to the oxidation of ascorbic acid, on these 25 patients, we modified the formula, substituting the ascorbic acid and EDTA, respectively, for tartaric acid and glycine. The respective tests "in vitro" and "in vivo" on 20 patients, this time showed beneficial effect of this preparation in 60% of the patients tested. Of these 60%, a 25% have continue to work exposed to the allergen (dichromate or nickel) and the other 35% have continue working with lesions controlled by habitual topic therapy. This preparation can also be used, with less effect, for nickel.

Administration, Topical↗

[Cosmetic acne and a test of comedogenicity].

A comedogenic test was carried out on the internal ear canal of four adult, masculine, albino rabbits, using butter of cacao and linseed oil, both known to be present in various cosmetic products. Histologic observation after 14 days showed follicular hyperkeratosis conferming the validity of this test.

Acne Vulgaris↗

[Role of cosmetics in environmental carcinogenesis].

UNLABELLED: Cosmetics, which have been used for millenaries, have undergone a dramatic development since the last war. Conjointly with this development, cosmetology has entered a new, scientific, phase. A few facts will enable us to define the role of carcinogens in environmental carcinogenesis: first, by trying to determine what protection is given to the consumer against the carcinogenic risk; then, by delineating the protection provided by sunscreen agents against skin carcinomas induced by sun. Protection provided to consumers: physicochemical characteristics; Ames test for screening; animal experimentation; epidemiological studies; follow-up of products. Prevention of UV-dependent skin cancer; induction of skin tumors by sun; prevention. Individual factors which modulate these risks: Two examples: permeability of the psoriatic skin; morphotypes and sun. CONCLUSION: Given the present state of our knowledge, it seems inconceivable to achieve stricter scientific standards before marketing a product. One step is, and always will be, lacking for the evaluation of the noxiousness of a substance, i.e. its large scale, longterm evaluation in man, with allowances for biologic inequalities. This underscores the value of producer's daily vigilance, a vigilance which in fact concerns both the producer and the consumer.

Absorption↗

[The problem of the use of mercurials cosmetics in Senegal (author's transl)].

The use of skin-lightening preparations appears to be a problem for the coloured women in Africa as well as for the Black People in general. The mercurial creams occupy a place of choice into the most useful products for the skin depigmentation. An epidemiological study from twenty senegalese women using mercurials cosmetics has permitted to determine a mean value of 155,75 +/- 75,38 ppm Hg in scalp hair while the normal level is less than 10 ppm. An experimental study was realised with monkeys (Papio papio) treated with a soap containing mercuric biiodide. This study has shown, after only three months of experimentation, a significative augmentation of mercury levels in all the organs and specially in the kidneys and the hair.

Adult↗