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Identification of chlorite and serpentine in cosmetic or pharmaceutical talc.

Chlorite is the most common accessory mineral group found in high purity talc ore used in cosmetic or pharmaceutical consumer talcum products. X-ray diffraction and wet chemical analytical data obtained on geologic samples representing commercial talc ore deposits of high purity and on processed samples representing talc found in consumer talcum products indicate that clinochlore and penninite are the two chlorite minerals most commonly found in all talc samples irrespective of origin or source, but sheridanite is also found in some samples representing talc deposits that are associated with serpentinite rocks. The chlorite minerals exhibit certain well-defined X-ray diffraction characteristics which differentiate them from each other as well as from those of serpentine minerals, including the hazardous chrysotile asbestos.

Chemical Phenomena↗

Amphibole content of cosmetic and pharmaceutical talcs.

Pharmaceutical and cosmetic-grade talcs were examined for asbestiform amphibole content using a new density-optical method. Talcs under the Food and Drug Administration are not regulated as to asbestos content; however, all talcs were well below the level mandated by the Occupational Safety and Health Administration for industrial talcs. Only one was found to contain an amphibole particle size distribution typical of asbestos.

Asbestos↗

HPLC determination of imidazole antimycotis in antidandruff cosmetic products.

A simple HPLC method for the determination of imidazole antimycotics in cosmetic antidandruff formulations has been developed. HPLC was carried out on a Discovery RP-Amide C16 column and spectrophotometric detection was performed at 220 nm. The initial mobile phase was a mixture of acetonitrile and aqueous 10(-3) M NaClO4 (pH 3.0) in the ratio of 15:85 (v/v); then a linear gradient up to 46% acetonitrile in 70 min, and up to 50% in 80 min. The extraction procedure has been validated by analyzing samples of shampoo and lotion spiked with 1% of the active principles. The recoveries were greater than 95% and the reproducibility was within 3%.

Antifungal Agents↗

Cosmetics: what is their influence on the skin microflora?

Human skin has a resident, transient and temporary resident microflora. This article considers the possibilities of topical products influencing the balance of the microflora. The resident micro-organisms are in a dynamic equilibrium with the host tissue and the microflora may be considered an integral component of the normal human skin. The great majority of these micro-organisms are gram-positive and reside on the skin surface and in the follicles. The host has a variety of structures, molecules and mechanisms which restrict the transient and temporary residents, as well as controlling the population and dominance of the resident group. These include local skin anatomy, hydration, nutrients and inhibitors of various types. The resident microflora is beneficial in occupying a niche and denying its access to transients, which may be harmful and infectious. Also, the residents are important in modifying the immune system. In the healthy host the microflora causes few and temporary problems. Therefore, it is of interest that topical products have little or no effect on the ecology of the microflora. A range of mechanisms by which long-term use of cosmetics may influence the microflora are considered. Although the risks associated are low, it is argued that it is necessary to monitor these changes in ecology and use technologies of modeling and bioinformatics to predict outcomes, whether good, neutral or of concern.

Cosmetics↗

Cosmetic indications for botulinum A toxin.

This article describes the use of botulinum toxin type A in the cosmetic treatment of facial wrinkles. Injection techniques, volumes, and concentration of the botulinum A toxin are described for various types of facial wrinkles.

Botulinum Toxins, Type A↗

Treating the patient with multiple cosmetic product allergies. A problem-oriented approach to sensitive skin.

Treating patients with multiple allergies to cosmetic products is a difficult proposition. Many of these patients may simply be experiencing irritant contact dermatitis. Others may have defective barrier function caused by a dermatitis that requires treatment. And some patients with sensitive skin need to exercise care in choosing which products they use on their skin. For many of these patients, products with the fewest ingredients work best because they contain the least or no sensitizers, irritants, or cutaneous sensory stimulants.

Anti-Allergic Agents↗

[Study on standard of patch test for cosmetic allergens].

39 allergens, chemical ingredients commonly used in cosmetics in China, were tested. The safe concentration of allergens was determined in experiments on animals. On the basis of the above results and referring to the literature, the concentration of allergens used in patch test for human was designed and the patch test was carried out on 10 volunteers by routine method. Finally the concentration which gave no reaction in all 10 volunteers was verified in patients with eczema or contact dermatitis. The rate of positive reactions for each allergen was raged from 0 to 12% with an average 3.4%, According to the results of three above mentioned experiments the series of allergen standards for patch test was established. It is used as an appendix to the document for diagnostic criteria and principles of management of consmetic diseases.

Allergens↗

An immunoassay method for rapid detection of Staphylococcus aureus in cosmetics, pharmaceutical products, and raw materials.

The TECRA Staphylococcus aureus Visual Immunoassay allows a presumptive positive or negative result for the presence of S. aureus to be obtained within 26 h, in contrast to 4-5 days by traditional cultural methods. Presumptive positive immunoassay results are confirmed by streaking the enrichment broth onto conventional agar media. A validation study was undertaken to compare the TECRA assay with a cultural reference method based on the Bacteriological Analytical Manual (8th Ed.), which is also consistent with U.S. Pharmacopoeia requirements. The products tested included a range of cosmetics (toothpaste, shampoos, conditioners, sunscreens, moisturizers, lip and eye creams) and pharmaceuticals (cough mixtures, laxatives, ulcer treatments, infant formulae, antiseptic cream), as well as some pharmaceutical ingredients. Samples were inoculated with S. aureus at 10-20 cfu/g, and then enriched for 24 h at 35 degrees-37 degrees C at a product-to-sample ratio of 1:100. Two different enrichment broths were used for the study: Tryptone Soya Broth with 4% Tween 80 and Modified Letheen Broth. For both enrichment broths, results of the immunoassay and the reference method showed close correlation. The TECRA S. aureus Visual Immunoassay provides a rapid and convenient alternative to cultural methods and provides advantages to industry, such as greater speed of product and ingredient release and faster tracing of contamination problems. Because the immunoassay may be read either visually or with the aid of a plate reader, there is no need for an initial outlay on capital equipment. However, the assay can be automated if required.

Bacteriological Techniques↗

Cosmetics to imitate a summer tan.

Over the past century, tanned skin shifted from being unpopular to becoming the height of fashion. However, the past decade has again seen white skin become fashionable as more and more people become aware of the dangers of spending too much time in the sun. Even so, having tanned skin is still popular and probably will be for some time to come. This article will focus on cosmetic products that are designed to simulate tanning of the skin by coloring or staining the skin without sun exposure.

Beauty Culture↗

Molecular diagnosis of microbial contamination in cosmetic and pharmaceutical products: a review.

Molecular methodologies such as adenosine triphosphate (ATP) bioluminescence and polymerase chain reaction (PCR)-based assays provide rapid quality control analysis of cosmetic and pharmaceutical finished products and raw materials. Using a single enrichment broth for bacteria, yeast, and mold, ATP bioluminescence detected microbial contamination within 27 h. Samples were automatically lysed to release microbial ATP and light production was quantitated using the Celsis Optocomp. However, to maintain the detection time to within 27 h, different enrichment broths were required for neutralization of antimicrobial ingredients in finished products and to provide specific nutrients for growth optimization. To perform the PCR reaction, bacterial DNA was extracted using a Tris-EDTA-Tween 20-proteinase K buffer at 35 degrees C while yeast and mold DNA were extracted using a Tris-EDTA-SDS buffer at 95 degrees C. Extracted microbial DNA was added to Ready-To-Go PCR beads and specific DNA primers. The primers were targeted to amplify specific regions within Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Staphylococcus aureus, Salmonella typhimurium, Burkholderia cepacia, Candida albicans, and Aspergillus niger. Furthermore, conserved bacterial ribosomal DNA sequences have also been used for sterility testing of samples. The results from these studies indicate that both ATP bioluminescence and PCR assays provide rapid, reliable, and cost effective methods for quality evaluation. This will ultimately result in faster product release and production optimization.

Adenosine Triphosphate↗

[Depigmentation for cosmetic purposes: prevalence and side-effects in a female population in Senegal].

BACKGROUND: Use of depigmenting agents by black women for cosmetic purposes is a long-standing practice. Most depigmenting agents contain topical steroids and hydroquinone. The purpose of this study was to clarify prevalence data on use of depigmenting agents in a female population in Senegal and to report the incidence and main features of adverse skin reactions in addition to possible associations with diabetes, hypertension and renal insufficiency. PATIENTS AND METHODS: A cross-sectional study was made in a representative sample of 147 hospitalized women aged from 15 to 60 years. The incidence of adverse skin reactions, diabetes, hypertension and serum creatinine in 41 women admitting use of depigmenting agents was compared to those found in 85 women who maintained they had never used depigmenting agents. Two patients who refused to participate in the study and 19 others who did use depigmenting products and had stopped their use for at least 3 months were excluded from the analysis. RESULTS: The prevalence of use of depigmenting agents was 27.9% (47/147). Adverse skin reactions were significantly more frequent among these patients. Effects observed were similar to those reported for prolonged use of topical steroids but also included periorbitary dyschromia, exogenous ochronosis, infectious dermatosis, and, in particular, extended dermatophytosis and necrotizing cellulitis, contact eczema, and certain hyperpigmentation when depigmenting agents were discontinued. Presence of relative hyperpigmentation of the dorsal phalanges identified use of depigmenting agents with a 100% specificity. Prevalence of diabetes and hypertension was significantly higher among the group of women using depigmenting agents (46.3% and 8.2%, versus 34.1% and 8.2% respectively). There was no difference for renal insufficiency. The risk increased independently of age depending on whether duration of use was less than 10 years or not with a relative risk that rose from 3.63 (1.2-10.47) to 6.47 (3.41-12.32) for diabetes and from 1.34 (0.45-3.96) to 2.65 (1.27-5.51) for hypertension, clearly suggesting a possible dose effect. DISCUSSION: The prevalence of use of depigmenting agents in this first published hospital series confirms the widespread nature of this phenomenon in Senegal. While certain patent skin signs are similar to those described in the literature, and excluding specific features related to the hospital setting, this is the first report of a dose-effect between use of depigmentation agents and diabetes and hypertension, probably via the effect of topical steroids.

Administration, Topical↗

Simultaneous determination of magnesium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate and kojic acid in cosmetic bleaching products by using a microbore column and ion-pair liquid chromatography.

A rapid, sensitive, and reliable method was developed for the simultaneous determination of magnesium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate (AS-PM) and kojic acid (KA), commonly using bleaching agents in cosmetic products. The method uses a prepacked C18 microbore column for ion-pair liquid chromatography with photodiode array detection. The eluant is 0.5mM tetrabutylammonium bromide and 0.05M phosphate buffer, pH 5, containing 5% methanol, at a flow rate of 70 microL/min. The determinations of AS-PM and KA were linear in the range of 0.5-1,000 and 0.25-500 ng, respectively. The precision of the assay ranged from 0.31 to 2.19%, and the detection limits (signal-to-noise ratio = 3) were 0.04 and 0.02 ng for AS-PM and KA, respectively.

Ascorbic Acid↗

Strategy to decrease the risk of adverse effects of fragrance ingredients in cosmetic products.

In spite of extensive self-regulation of the fragrance industry, fragrance ingredients are still major causes of allergic contact dermatitis. There are indications that the problem is increasing in some countries, and that many nonregulated compounds are involved in the development of allergies. The use of essential oils in fragrance compounds might add both allergenic and carcinogenic compounds to a product and the exact composition of such ingredients is difficult to control. Herein, we propose a simple strategy to decrease the risk of adverse effects of fragrance ingredients in cosmetic products. This strategy consists of four major steps: (1) limit the concentration of fragrance compound in the products, (2) follow legislation and guidelines, (3) limit the concentration of a number of well-known sensitizing fragrance chemicals, and (4) limit the concentration of essential oils and materials with unknown composition. The strategy is discussed as an alternative to animal testing and in relation to other more resource-demanding approaches to the same problem.

Animal Testing Alternatives↗

[Cytotoxic and genotoxic activity of certain preservative agents in cosmetics].

Cytotoxic effects of the preservative compounds for cosmetics JMAC TD, Bronopol, CA 24, and Euxyl K100 were studied. Bronopol demonstrated the highest cytotoxic effect on the proliferation of V79 and VH10 fibroblast cell lines--the IC100 values being 10 mg/l during the whole experiment. The preservatives CA 24 and Euxyl K100 showed 4-times and 5-times smaller cytotoxic activity than Bronopol IC100 = 42 or 50.3 mg/l). The preservative compounds on silver chloride ions JMAC TD manifested the lowest cytotoxicity of the preservatives tested (IC100 = 150 mg/l); 15-times smaller than Bronopol, 3.5-times smaller than CA 24 and 3-times smaller than Euxyl K100. The biocide JMAC TD did not exhibit mutagenic effects on the bacteria Salmonella typhimurium TA 98 and TA 100.

Animals↗

[Hypothalamo-hypophyseal-adrenal hypofunction caused by the use of bleaching cosmetics in Senegal].

Cosmetic use of bleaching agents to clear skin is widespread among black West African women. In Dakar, most products used for whole body applications contain highly potent corticosteroids. Whereas cutaneous adverse effects are well described, little is known about possible systemic consequences. In order to assess transcutaneous absorption of glucocorticoids, hypothalamo-pituitary-adrenal axis functionality can be tested. We measured plasma cortisol concentration at 8 h and 1 h after intramuscular injection of 250 micrograms of cosyntropin (Synacthen) in 12 women with a more than 10 years use of bleaching agents. Cortisol at 8 H was also measured in 9 non exposed women without disease or treatment able to disturb glucocorticoids metabolism. All controls had 8 H cortisol concentration (mean = 521 +/- 113 nmol/l) above the minimal normal level considered by our laboratory. The 8 H cortisol concentrations were under the minimal normal level in 9 exposed women and the overall mean value was significantly lower than the one observed in controls (264 +/- 81 nmol/l; p < 0.001). After cosyntropin, cortisol concentrations were elevated among all exposed women (469 +/- 196 nmol/l), and less so in 3 of them. Most of the bleaching agents users present a functional inertia of hypothalamo-pituitary adrenal axis. While there is no absolute evidence for risk of stress-induced adrenal insufficiency, our results show conclusively that an excessive corticosteroids charge among users who could be exposed to systemic adverse effects.

Absorption↗

Optimization and validation of an analytical procedure for the determination of oxidative hair dyes in commercial cosmetic formulations.

A method has been developed and validated for the analysis of commonly used intermediates of oxidative hair dyes in commercial cosmetic formulations, including both liquid and cream forms, in dark and blonde shades. The commercial formulations are submitted to extraction by an organic solvent, and the resulting aqueous phase is analyzed by reverse-phase HPLC with a gradient elution and detection with DAD and/or ESI-MS-MS. A spectra library containing 200-400 nm spectra of the target substances and their HPLC retention times has been recorded for the identification. The quantification of the target substances is also performed after spiking of the commercial formulations, using an external calibration. The recoveries obtained are very good for all selected intermediates. The whole procedure has been found to be highly suitable for the identification and quantification of dye intermediates. Also implemented has been a database containing (a) the retention times, (b) the spectral, MS, and MS/MS characteristics of the intermediates, (c) acidity constant values of some intermediates of interest experimentally determined and compared to the available NIST values, (d) the chromatographic conditions used, (e) the behavior towards extraction of dye intermediates, and (f) matrix compounds.

Calibration↗

[Chemistry of cosmetics in antiquity].

Several texts, statues and paintings denote the importance of make up and eye medicines since the earliest periods of Egyptian history. We have investigated cosmetic powders that were preserved in original alabaster and reed containers. Quantitative crystallographic and chemical analysis of the mineral and organic components revealed surprising facts. In addition to the well known galena PbS and cerussite PbCO3, two unexpected constituents have been identified: laurionite PbOHCl and phosgenite Pb2 (CO3) Cl2, which are rare halide minerals found in lead slag only in certain places where the sea water has weathered lead debris left over from silver mining operations in Antiquity. Alteration of natural lead minerals is also unlikely, given the excellent state of conservation of the reed vessels. This evidence indicates that laurionite and phosgenite were synthesised artificially. Support for this statement comes from recipes of medicinal products to be "used in ophthalmology" reported by Greco-Roman authors such as Dioscorides and Pline (1st Century B.C.): silver foam PbO is crushed and mixed with rock salt and sometimes with natron (Na2CO3). The reaction seems to be straightforward. However, our experiments in the laboratory have shown a major difficulty, arising from the concomitant production of alkali, which raises the pH and leads to different products. It follows that the Egyptians very early mastered this kind of chemical synthesis and technology, a fact of great importance in the History of Sciences. Fire-based technology had been mastered to manufacture Egyptian Blue pigments since the third millennium B.C. The present results now suggest that wet chemistry was already known 4000 years ago. This key finding provides a new insight into the chemical technology of far greater antiquity than has previously been believed. Yet, an important question remains relative to the ultimate motivation for these technological developments. If the Egyptians initially only aimed at different nuances of grey, they could use cerussite, an easily accessible mineral, crushed and mixed with galena. Thus, one should seek other motivations; we shall propose to consider a religious-ritual context, ultimately linked to a pharmaceutical aspect.

Cosmetics↗

Applications of cyclodextrins in cosmetic products: A review.

Cyclodextrins are non-toxic cyclic polysaccharides. They form inlusion complexes with numerous organic molecules. The physical and chemical properties of the guest molecules change due to complex formation. Thus, for example, the stability of the complexed molecule against light and oxygen increases and the vapor pressure is reduced. The solubility of slightly soluble molecules increases in a cyclodextrin complex. All these and further advantages of cyclodextrins and their complexes can be used for the formulation of cosmetic products. As a result, effects are possible not realizable with common techniques.

Cosmetics↗