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PubMed1984

Cosmetic results following primary radiation therapy for early breast cancer.

In order to assess the cosmetic results of treatment, the results in 239 patients with early breast cancer treated by primary radiation treatment without adjuvant chemotherapy were reviewed. Four patients had bilateral cancers, making a total of 243 breasts available for analysis. Follow-up ranged from 24 to 78 months with a median of 33 months. The parameters measured were breast edema, retraction, telangiectasia, arm edema, and the overall cosmetic appearance. The cosmetic results declined over the first 3 years after treatment, but then stabilized. At 5 years, the overall cosmetic results were judged by physicians as excellent in 77%, good in 9%, fair in 9%, and poor in 5%. A fair or poor cosmetic result was highly correlated with the development of moderate or severe breast retraction. Telangiectasia was uncommonly the only cause of a fair or poor cosmetic result. Breast and arm edema were rarely noted to be significant, but were more common in patients who underwent axillary dissection. In 210 cases, a supplementary boost dose of radiation was delivered to the primary tumor area, and in 33 cases a boost was not used. This boost consisted of an interstitial iridium-192 implant in 204 cases and either high-energy photons or electrons in the remainder. At 4 years, no patient treated without a boost had a fair or poor result compared with 22% who received a boost (P = 0.13). The conclusion is that, in general, primary radiation treatment provides highly satisfactory cosmetic results for patients with early breast cancer.

Adult↗
PubMed2000

Cosmetic results and complications after breast conserving therapy for early breast cancer.

BACKGROUND: The cosmetic and functional results of breast conserving therapy for early breast cancer were evaluated. These are important endpoints in the assessment of breast conserving therapy in addition to tumor control and survival. The factors suspected to influence cosmesis were also analyzed. METHODS: In 206 patients with stage I and II breast cancer treated by wide excision and axillary dissection followed by radiation therapy, the cosmetic results and complications were analyzed. The cosmetic outcome was assessed by a scoring method and breast retraction assessment (BRA). As complications, arm edema and restriction of shoulder movement and late skin reactions were analyzed. RESULTS: Of the 206 patients 92% showed an excellent to good cosmetic score before radiation therapy. The score deteriorated, but gradually improved and stabilized after 1 year. Eighty-one percent of the patients had an excellent to good cosmetic score at 3 years. The BRA of the 206 patients was 1.8 cm on average before radiation therapy. It increased to 2.3 cm after termination of radiation therapy, and did not change thereafter. Tumor size over 2 cm (p = 0.005) and tumors in the inner quadrant (p = 0.003) were factors which negatively affected the cosmetic score at 3 years. Tumor size over 2 cm (p = 0.003), tumors in the upper quadrant (p = 0.005), or a nipple-tumor distance of more than 2 cm (p = 0.01) were also negative factors for the BRA at 3 years. Arm edema, restriction of shoulder movement, and late skin reaction were generally mild, and were observed in 12%, 0% and 34% of patients at 3 years, respectively. CONCLUSIONS: The overall cosmetic results of breast conserving therapy are acceptable and the complication rate is low. Tumor characteristics, tumor size, location and nipple-tumor distance are factors that affect cosmesis.

Adult↗
PubMed2004

Scar area and cosmetic outcome after circular and elliptical excision of small skin lesions.

BACKGROUND: Cutaneous surgery for removal of small skin tumors is usually performed as elliptical excision. There is some indication that circular excisions could result in cosmetically more favorable scars and should therefore be considered as an alternative method. OBJECTIVE: The aim of this study was to compare circular and elliptical excisions with respect to scar area and cosmetic result. METHODS: Fifty-six operations were performed, 27 elliptical and 29 circular. The cosmetic results were determined as patient's opinion by questionnaire and assessment of photo slides by three independent observers. Also, scar areas were measured by computer program. RESULTS: The scar area was significantly smaller after circular excisions compared with elliptical excisions after 6 and 12 months of observation (p = 0.005 and p = 0.001, respectively). The assessment of cosmetic results by the patients did not differ between the two groups (p = 0.44), while the independent observers slightly favored the cosmetic outcome of elliptical scars (p = 0.03). When analyzing only excisions without complications, there was no difference in cosmetic results between the two groups. CONCLUSION: Circular excisions seemed to cause smaller scars and equal cosmetic results compared with traditional elliptical excisions and could therefore be an alternative method for small skin excisions on the trunk and extremities.

Adult↗
PubMed2005

Cosmetic outcome of breast conserving therapy after sentinel node biopsy versus axillary lymph node dissection.

INTRODUCTION: Next to locoregional control, good cosmetic outcome is one of the main goals of breast conserving treatment (BCT) for breast cancer surgery. Factors affecting cosmetic outcome are well known. The sentinel node (SN) procedure avoids lymphedema in the breast, which might influence cosmetic outcome. The aim of this study was to evaluate the cosmetic outcome of BCT after the SN procedure compared to that after axillary lymph node dissection (ALND). METHODS: The subjects were 20 patients who underwent ALND and 20 patients who underwent the SN procedure. After a minimum follow-up period of 43 months, we photographed each patient. Fifteen healthy women served as control subjects. We used the percentage breast retraction assessment index (pBRA=BRA/reference length x 100) to compare cosmetic outcome. RESULTS: The median pBRAs of the ALND group and SN group (14.3 and 6.71, respectively) significantly differed ( p=0.001). The pBRA of the SN group was comparable to the pBRA (6.1) of the control group ( p=0.317). CONCLUSION: Cosmetic outcome of BCT after the SN procedure was superior compared to the cosmetic outcome after ALND. This is an important additional reason to implement the SN procedure in routine daily practice.

Axilla↗
PubMed1991

Cosmetic results after surgery, chemotherapy, and radiation therapy for early breast cancer.

Adjuvant chemotherapy (CT) is increasingly being used in conjunction with radiation therapy (RT) in the treatment of early stage breast cancer. To assess the effect of CT on the cosmetic outcome of the irradiated breast, we retrospectively reviewed the cosmetic results of patients who received either cyclophosphamide-methotrexate-fluorouracil (CMF) or doxorubicin-based chemotherapy in conjunction with breast irradiation between 1968 and 1985. The overall cosmetic results were evaluated by the physician as "excellent," "good," "fair," or "poor" using a standardized scale. The CT group consisted of 170 patients treated with CT and RT administered either concurrently or sequentially (CT before RT, after RT, or both) with a minimum of 24 months of cosmetic follow-up. These were compared to an RT alone control group of 170 patients who did not receive CT and were matched by tumor size, radiation technique, and year of treatment. At 36 months, the cosmetic scores for the CT group compared to RT alone were 47% versus 71% excellent (p less than 0.01), 36% versus 19% good, and 17% versus 9% fair or poor. For the 50 patients treated with concurrent CMF and RT, the scores were 31% excellent, 45% good, and 24% fair/poor, whereas for the 118 patients treated with sequential RT and CT they were 54%, 31%, and 14%, respectively. There was no difference between those patients who received sequential CMF and those treated with doxorubicin. We conclude that adjuvant chemotherapy adversely affects the cosmetic outcome of breast irradiation, but that this effect is not clinically significant unless CMF is administered concurrently with RT. Patients treated with either sequential CMF or doxorubicin-based CT had only a slight decrement in their cosmetic result compared to patients treated without CT.

Antineoplastic Combined Chemotherapy Protocols↗
PubMed2005

A cosmetic evaluation of breast cancer treatment: a randomized study of radiotherapy boost technique.

PURPOSE: To compare cosmetic results of two different radiotherapy (RT) boost techniques used in the treatment of breast cancer after whole breast radiotherapy and to identify factors affecting cosmetic outcomes. METHODS AND MATERIALS: Between 1996 and 1998, 142 patients with Stage I and II breast cancer were treated with breast conservative surgery and adjuvant RT. Patients were then randomly assigned to receive a boost dose of 15 Gy delivered to the tumor bed either by iridium 192, or a combination of photons and electrons. Cosmetic evaluations were done on a 6-month basis, with a final evaluation at 36 months after RT. The evaluations were done using a panel of global and specific subjective scores, a digitized scoring system using the breast retraction assessment (BRA) measurement, and a patient's self-assessment evaluation. As cosmetic results were graded according to severity, the comparison of boost techniques was done using the ordinal logistic regression model. Adjusted odds ratios (OR) and their 95% confidence intervals (CI) are presented. RESULTS: At 36 months of follow-up, there was no significant difference between the two groups with respect to the global subjective cosmetic outcome (OR = 1.40; 95%CI = 0.69-2.85, p = 0.35). Good to excellent scores were observed in 65% of implant patients and 62% of photon/electron patients. At 24 months and beyond, telangiectasia was more severe in the implant group with an OR of 9.64 (95%CI = 4.05-22.92, p < 0.0001) at 36 months. The only variable associated with a worse global cosmetic outcome was the presence of concomitant chemotherapy (OR = 3.87; 95%CI = 1.74-8.62). The BRA value once adjusted for age, concomitant chemotherapy, and boost volume showed a positive association with the boost technique. The BRA value was significantly greater in the implant group (p = 0.03). There was no difference in the patient's final self-assessment score between the two groups. Three variables were statistically associated with an adverse self-evaluation: an inferior quadrant tumor localization, postoperative hematoma, and concomitant chemotherapy. CONCLUSIONS: Although this trial showed that at 36 months of follow-up, there were no significant differences in the overall global cosmetic scores between the implant boost group and the photon/electron boost group, telangiectasia was more severe and the BRA value was greater in the implant group.

Adult↗
PubMed2000

The influence of patient, tumor and treatment factors on the cosmetic results after breast-conserving therapy in the EORTC 'boost vs. no boost' trial. EORTC Radiotherapy and Breast Cancer Cooperative Groups.

PURPOSE: To analyze the influence of different patient, tumor, and treatment parameters on the cosmetic outcome after breast-conserving therapy at 3-year follow-up. A subjective and an objective cosmetic scoring method was used and the results of both methods were compared. PATIENTS AND METHODS: In EORTC trial 22881/10882, 5569 early-stage breast cancer patients were treated with tumorectomy and axillary dissection, followed by tangential fields irradiation of the breast to a dose of 50 Gy in 5 weeks, at 2 Gy per fraction. A total of 5318 patients, having a microscopically complete tumorectomy, were randomized between no further treatment and a boost of 16 Gy to the primary tumor bed. The cosmetic result at 3-year follow-up was assessed by a panel for 731 patients, and by digitizer measurements, measuring the displacement of the nipple, for 1141 patients. Univariate and multivariate analyses were used to evaluate the correlation between various patient, tumor, and treatment factors and cosmesis. RESULTS: The factors associated with a worsened cosmesis according to the panel evaluation were: an inferior tumor location, a large excision volume, the presence of postoperative breast complications, and the radiotherapy boost. According to the digitizer measurements, a central/superior tumor location, a large excision volume, an increased pathological tumor size, an increased radiation dose inhomogeneity, and an increased bra cup size resulted in an increased asymmetry in nipple position. It appeared that the evaluation of the nipple position (whether by panel or by digitizer) is only moderately representative of the overall cosmetic outcome. CONCLUSION: To achieve a good cosmesis, it is necessary to excise the tumor with a limited margin, to avoid postoperative complications, to assess the need for a boost in the individual patient, and to give the radiation dose as homogeneously as possible. As far as the method of evaluation is concerned, the panel evaluation is the most appropriate method for giving an overall impression of the cosmetic result after breast-conserving therapy (BCT). The use of the digitizer is recommended for comparing the cosmetic outcome of two different approaches to BCT or for analyzing cosmetic changes over time.

Adult↗
PubMed1999

The effects of topical vitamin E on the cosmetic appearance of scars.

BACKGROUND: Vitamin E is a generic term for a group of tocol and tocotrienol derivatives. Since the discovery that vitamin E is the major lipid soluble antioxidant in skin, this substance has been tried for the treatment of almost every type of skin lesion imaginable. Anecdotal reports claim that vitamin E speeds wound healing and improves the cosmetic outcome of burns and other wounds. Many lay people use vitamin E on a regular basis to improve the outcome of scars and several physicians recommend topical vitamin E after skin surgery or resurfacing. OBJECTIVE: We attempted to determine whether topically applied vitamin E has any effect on the cosmetic appearance of scars as suggested by multiple anectodal reports. METHODS: Fifteen patients who had undergone skin cancer removal surgery were enrolled in the study. All wounds were primarily closed in 2 layers. After the surgery, the patients were given two ointments each labeled A or B. A was Aquaphor, a regular emollient, and the B was Aquaphor mixed with vitamin E. The scars were randomly divided into parts A and B. Patients were asked to put the A ointment on part A and the B ointment on part B twice daily for 4 weeks. The study was double blinded. The physicians and the patients independently evaluated the scars for cosmetic appearance on Weeks 1, 4, and 12. The criteria was simply to recognize which side of the scar looked better if there was any difference. The patients' and the physicians' opinions were recorded. A third blinded investigator was shown photographs of the outcomes and their opinion was also noted. RESULTS: The results of this study show that topically applied vitamin E does not help in improving the cosmetic appearance of scars and leads to a high incidence of contact dermatitis. CONCLUSIONS: This study shows that there is no benefit to the cosmetic outcome of scars by applying vitamin E after skin surgery and that the application of topical vitamin E may actually be detrimental to the cosmetic appearance of a scar. In 90% of the cases in this study, topical vitamin E either had no effect on, or actually worsened, the cosmetic appearance of scars. Of the patients studied, 33% developed a contact dermatitis to the vitamin E. Therefore we conclude that use of topical vitamin E on surgical wounds should be discouraged.

Administration, Topical↗
PubMed2000

Evaluation of cosmetic results of a randomized trial comparing surgery and radiotherapy in the treatment of basal cell carcinoma of the face.

Basal cell carcinoma is the most frequent cutaneous carcinoma, and it is characterized by its local spreading and an exceptional tendency to metastasize. Radical excision or destruction ensures the highest chance of cure. The most frequent site of this tumor is the face, where radical excision is limited by the proximity of essential anatomic structures. The main difficulty is to avoid mutilation and to provide good cosmetic results despite the vicinity of the eyes, the nose, and the mouth. Surgery and radiotherapy are known to provide similar chances of cure, but results concerning cosmetic sequelae are controversial, depending sometimes on the specialty of the physician in charge of the treatment. A randomized trial was performed at the Gustave-Roussy Institute to compare basal cell carcinomas of the face treated either by surgery or by radiotherapy. In summary, a significant advantage was observed in favor of surgery, as has been published elsewhere. Looking at the details of the cosmetic results, we analyzed the specific methodology of the cosmetic evaluation set up to eradicate the usual bias owing to subjective judgments. We looked also to the evolution of the cosmetic results with time. A panel of five judges performed repeated evaluations during the follow-up, and standardized photographs were taken at each visit and rated later by three nonmedical judges. In total, 174 patients were treated by surgery and 173 by radiotherapy; the choice of the treatment was allocated by randomization. Postoperative complications were higher in the radiotherapy group. The final cosmetic results after 4 years of follow-up were rated significantly better with surgery than with radiotherapy (good in 87 percent versus 69 percent according to the patient, 79 percent versus 40 percent according to the dermatologist, and respectively for each of the observers). Evolution of the ratings during the follow-up demonstrated an improvement of the cosmesis after surgery and stable or deteriorated results after radiotherapy. The same trend was observed regardless of the site of the tumor on the face, except for the nose, where the difference--still in favor of the surgery--was not significant. Concordance of all assessments in our study was the main guarantee of reliability of our methodology for cosmetic evaluation.

Adult↗
PubMed2004

A review of psychosocial outcomes for patients seeking cosmetic surgery.

The authors reviewed the literature on psychological and psychosocial outcomes for individuals undergoing cosmetic surgery, to address whether elective cosmetic procedures improve psychological well-being and psychosocial functioning and whether there are identifiable predictors of an unsatisfactory psychological outcome. They conducted a search of appropriate computerized databases for studies that evaluated psychological and psychosocial status both before and after elective cosmetic surgery. They identified 37 relevant studies of varying cosmetic procedures that utilized disparate methodologies. Overall, patients appeared generally satisfied with the outcome of their procedures, although some exhibited transient and some exhibited longer-lasting psychological disturbance. Factors associated with poor psychosocial outcome included being young, being male, having unrealistic expectations of the procedure, previous unsatisfactory cosmetic surgery, minimal deformity, motivation based on relationship issues, and a history of depression, anxiety, or personality disorder. Body dysmorphic disorder was also recognized by some studies as a predictor of poor outcome, a finding reinforced by reference to the psychiatric literature. The authors conclude that although most people appear satisfied with the outcome of cosmetic surgical procedures, some are not, and attempts should be made to screen for such individuals in cosmetic surgery settings.

Humans↗
PubMed1999

Cosmetic outcome in patients receiving an interstitial implant as part of breast-conservation therapy.

PURPOSE: To study factors related to breast cosmetic outcome in patients treated with an interstitial implant as part of breast-conservation therapy. MATERIALS AND METHODS: One hundred fifty-six patients with stage I or II breast carcinoma who received 50 Gy of external-beam irradiation followed by a 20-Gy interstitial boost were examined. The dose homogeneity index (DHI) was calculated for each evaluable implant and was examined in light of other patient-, treatment-, and tumor-related variables previously demonstrated to affect cosmesis. RESULTS: Of the variables examined, both the DHI (P = .021) and the total excision volume (P = .019) were significantly related to cosmetic outcome (excellent vs less than excellent) in a univariate model. In the multivariate analysis, only the total excision volume remained significant (P = .032). The mean total excision volume +/- SD in patients with excellent cosmetic outcome (81.8 cm3 +/- 84.0) was significantly less than that in patients with less than excellent cosmetic outcome (120 cm3 +/- 84). The probability of excellent cosmetic outcome linearly increased with an increase in DHI. The mean DHI was 0.74 +/- 0.12 for the cases with excellent cosmetic outcome and 0.68 +/- 0.10 for those with less than excellent cosmetic outcome. CONCLUSION: To achieve optimal cosmesis, DHI should be maximized. The volume of tissue removed, however, remains the most significant determinant.

Adult↗
PubMed2000

Cosmetic oral and maxillofacial surgery options.

BACKGROUND: Dentistry and its related specialties have made exponential increases in the functional and cosmetic treatment of the maxillofacial region. Oral and maxillofacial surgeons historically have been involved in functional and cosmetic rejuvenation of the face, and newer technologies have enhanced the ability to make patients look and feel better. METHODS: Cosmetic oral and maxillofacial surgery is being taught in residency programs, is included in the oral and maxillofacial surgery board examinations and represents a part of contemporary oral and maxillofacial surgery. The author discusses common facial rejuvenation procedures with an emphasis on newer treatment technologies. RESULTS: Many oral and maxillofacial surgeons have the ability to improve the esthetics of the maxillofacial area and related structures. The large number of aging baby boomers and technological advances in cosmetic facial surgery have made these procedures easier to perform and more popular than ever. CONCLUSION: A global diagnosis and treatment plan to include facial esthetics can enhance cosmetic dentistry and serve to frame the work of the restorative dentist. The oral and maxillofacial surgeon can help the dentist and patient pursue both functional and cosmetic improvement with safe and effective procedures. CLINICAL IMPORTANCE: All dentists should be aware and abreast of advances in all areas of dentistry and have a basic understanding of available procedures that can benefit their patients. Cosmetic oral and maxillofacial surgery can enhance the work of the restorative dentist and improve facial esthetics, as well as enhance the well-being of the patient.

Esthetics, Dental↗
PubMed2004

[Cosmetic surgery among Norwegian women].

BACKGROUND: There are few data on the frequency of cosmetic surgery among Norwegian women. MATERIAL AND METHODS: A random sample of 2000 Norwegian women aged 22 to 55 received a questionnaire on cosmetic surgery, demographic data, self-esteem, and to what extent people around them accepted cosmetic surgery. RESULTS: The response rate was 46% (907 women). Of these, 7.7% indicated that they had undergone cosmetic surgery, while 22.6% wished to do so. Other people's degree of acceptance predicted both the wish to undergo cosmetic surgery and already conducted surgery. Low self-esteem was correlated with a wish to undergo surgery, though women who had done surgery had no lower self-esteem than non-patients. INTERPRETATIONS: Although the response rate was relatively low, this study gives the first reliable data on the frequency of cosmetic surgery in Norway. The results indicate that other people's degree of acceptance of cosmetic surgery is a predictor of such surgery being chosen.

Adult↗
PubMed1988

The allergens in cosmetics.

The ingredients responsible for allergy to cosmetics were determined in 119 patients suffering from cosmetic-related contact dermatitis. Most reactions (56.3%) were caused by skin care products, followed by nail cosmetics (13.4%), perfumes (8.4%), and hair cosmetics (5.9%). Preservatives were most frequently implicated (32.0%), followed by fragrances (26.5%) and emulsifiers (14.3%). By far the most important cosmetic allergen was Kathon CG, (a preservative system containing, as active ingredients, a mixture of methylisothiazolinone and methyl chloroisothiazolinone) reacting in 33 patients (27.7%). Other frequent causes of cosmetic-related contact allergic reactions were toluenesulfonamide/formaldehyde resin in nail hardener and/or nail lacquer (15 patients [12.6%]), and oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, an emulsifier in baby body lotion (13 patients [10.9%]).

Adolescent↗
PubMedDate not supplied

Endocrine disrupters and human health: could oestrogenic chemicals in body care cosmetics adversely affect breast cancer incidence in women?

In the decade that has elapsed since the suggestion that exposure of the foetal/developing male to environmental oestrogens could be the cause of subsequent reproductive and developmental effects in men, there has been little definitive research to provide conclusions to the hypothesis. Issues of exposure and low potency of environmental oestrogens may have reduced concerns. However, the hypothesis that chemicals applied in body care cosmetics (including moisturizers, creams, sprays or lotions applied to axilla or chest or breast areas) may be affecting breast cancer incidence in women presents a different case scenario, not least in the consideration of the exposure issues. The specific cosmetic type is not relevant but the chemical ingredients in the formulations and the application to the skin is important. The most common group of body care cosmetic formulation excipients, namely p-hydroxybenzoic acid esters or parabens, have been shown recently to be oestrogenic in vitro and in vivo and now have been detected in human breast tumour tissue, indicating absorption (route and causal associations have yet to be confirmed). The hypothesis for a link between oestrogenic ingredients in underarm and body care cosmetics and breast cancer is forwarded and reviewed here in terms of: data on exposure to body care cosmetics and parabens, including dermal absorption; paraben oestrogenicity; the role of oestrogen in breast cancer; detection of parabens in breast tumours; recent epidemiology studies of underarm cosmetics use and breast cancer; the toxicology database; the current regulatory status of parabens and regulatory toxicology data uncertainties. Notwithstanding the major public health issue of the causes of the rising incidence of breast cancer in women, this call for further research may provide the first evidence that environmental factors may be adversely affecting human health by endocrine disruption, because exposure to oestrogenic chemicals through application of body care products (unlike diffuse environmental chemical exposures) should be amenable to evaluation, quantification and control. The exposure issues are clear and the exposed population is large, and these factors should provide the necessary impetus to investigate this potential issue of public health.

Breast Neoplasms↗
PubMed2004

Ethnopharmacognostic survey on the natural ingredients used in folk cosmetics, cosmeceuticals and remedies for healing skin diseases in the inland Marches, Central-Eastern Italy.

An ethnopharmaceutical study focused on domestic cosmetics, cosmeceuticals, and remedies to heal skin diseases traditionally used in the inland part of the Marches region (Central-Eastern Italy) has been conducted. At present, traditional knowledge concerning home-made phytocosmetics is represented by both the remnants of an orally transmitted folk heritage and also by new forms of knowledge, sometimes coming from popular phytotherapeutical books and the mass media (out of the scope of this survey), but also as a result of recent migration trends from Eastern Europe. We recorded approximately 135 cosmetic or cosmeceutical preparations prepared from more than 70 botanical species and a very few animal or mineral ingredients. Among the recorded preparations, developing a clear distinction amongst cosmetics, cosmeceuticals and pharmaceuticals for skin diseases is very problematic, confirming that in folk knowledge systems medicinal products for healing skin diseases and cosmetics have often been perceived as two poles of a continuum. Many of the quoted species represented well-known medicinal plants of the European phytotherapy, although we also recorded a few unusual plant taxa, which are briefly discussed under the perspective of their eventual phytochemical and/or phytopharmacological potentialities. Exotic drugs or precious essences, even native of the Mediterranean, were not quoted as ingredients for preparing perfumes and fragrances by the interviewees of the present study, thus indicating that popular cosmetic practices in rural Central Italy have taken a much separated path away from the cosmetic "know-how" of the aristocracy and high bourgeois classes of the last centuries.

Cosmetics↗
PubMed2005

Determination of hydroquinone in cosmetic emulsion using microdialysis sampling coupled with high-performance liquid chromatography.

A method based on microdialysis sampling combined with high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) has been developed for the determination of hydroquinone in cosmetic emulsion. In microdialysis sampling, using deionized water as perfusate, a probe length of 10mm and dialysis flow-rate of 5 microl min(-1) were found to be the optimum conditions for the analysis. The accuracy (% bias) for intra-day (n=3) and inter-day (n=12, four consecutive days) ranged from -9.5 to 13.0% with a precision less than 7.55% relative standard deviation (R.S.D.). Recovery obtained between 89 and 112% by adding hydroquinone standards into medicated cosmetics and the coefficients of variance between 0.5 and 3.3%. The linearity of calibration curve is in the range of 2 microM-2 mM with an R(2) value for the linear regression of 0.9981. The detection limit is 0.2 microM derived from the three times of signal-to-noise ratio. This method has been applied to determine the hydroquinone content in medicated and non-medicated cosmetics. The contents of hydroquinone in the medicated cosmetics are 5.36% (0.12% R.S.D., n=3) and 3.85% (0.26% R.S.D., n=3), respectively; in contrast to the percentages given by the manufacturer are 5 and 4%, the accuracy (% bias) are 7.20 and 3.75%, respectively. No hydroquinone was detected in non-medicated cosmetics. The proposed method has the advantages of easy sample pretreatment, rapid isolation and lower organic solvent consumption than in other methods for the determination of hydroquinone in cosmetics.

Calibration↗
PubMed2005

Safety assessment on polyethylene glycols (PEGs) and their derivatives as used in cosmetic products.

This assessment focusses on polyethylene glycols (PEGs) and on anionic or nonionic PEG derivatives, which are currently used in cosmetics in Europe. These compounds are used in a great variety of cosmetic applications because of their solubility and viscosity properties, and because of their low toxicity. The PEGs, their ethers, and their fatty acid esters produce little or no ocular or dermal irritation and have extremely low acute and chronic toxicities. They do not readily penetrate intact skin, and in view of the wide use of preparations containing PEG and PEG derivatives, only few case reports on sensitisation reactions have been published, mainly involving patients with exposure to PEGs in medicines or following exposure to injured or chronically inflamed skin. On healthy skin, the sensitising potential of these compounds appears to be negligible. For some representative substances of this class, information was available on reproductive and developmental toxicity, on genotoxicty and carcinogenic properties. Taking into consideration all available information from related compounds, as well as the mode and mechanism of action, no safety concern with regard to these endpoints could be identified. Based on the available data it is therefore concluded that PEGs of a wide molecular weight range (200 to over 10,000), their ethers (laureths. ceteths, ceteareths, steareths, and oleths), and fatty acid esters (laurates, dilaurates, stearates, distearates) are safe for use in cosmetics. Limited data were available for PEG sorbitan/sorbitol fatty acid esters, PEG sorbitan beeswax and PEG soy sterols. Taking into account all the information available for closely related compounds, it can be assumed that these compounds as presently used in cosmetic preparations will not present a risk for human health. PEG castor oils and PEG hydrogenated castor oils have caused anaphylactic reactions when used in intravenous medicinal products. Their topical use in cosmetics is, however, considered safe as they are not expected to be systemically available. As all PEGs and PEG derivatives, they must not be applied to damaged skin. Manufacturers of PEGs and PEG derivatives must continue their efforts to remove impurities and by-products such as ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane. Overall, it is concluded, that the PEGs covered in this review are safe for use in cosmetics under the present conditions of intended use.

Animals↗