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PubMed1976

The influence of cosmetics and ointments on the spectral emissivity of skin.

Measurements of the spectral emmissivity, epsilon (lambda), of human skin described in a previous paper were performed with a modified monochromator by comparing the radiation from the skin with blackbody radiation in the wavelength range between 2 and 14 mum. Using the same equipment the spectral emissivity has been measured of skin which had been covered with different cosmetics and ointments. From these data it is possible to predict theoretically the apparent temperature difference as seen by an infrared scanner or radiometer with a detector of which the spectral detectivity, D (lambda), is known. These values are compared with the readings of a Bofors Thermograph with an InSb detector. When talcum venetum has been applied to the skin, a greater apparent temperature diffenence must be expected for thermographic cameras equipped with a HgCdTe detector than for cameras with InSb detectors.

Cosmetics↗
PubMed2000

Application of regulations to cosmetic lasers in private practice.

Recent years have seen a growth in the number of non-NHS premises, for example beauty salons, offering cosmetic laser treatments such as laser hair removal. By law, such practices are subject to registration and monitoring by Health Authorities. However, a national consensus on appropriate standards is urgently required, particularly on interpretation of the legal requirements for medical direction and operator training, in order to ensure consistency of standards in private practice with lasers across the country. This paper outlines the difficulties experienced in the inspection and registration process, and makes recommendations on appropriate interim standards, pending formal guidance from professional bodies and the promulgation of revised regulations. Until such guidance is in place, it may be wise for Health Authorities to include within their inspection protocols a requirement that applicants for laser registrations produce a statement as to the exact form which medical direction of laser treatment will take, to enable the Health Authority to consider and take advice on its suitability. Similarly a requirement that laser operators are state-registered health professionals will ensure that these potentially hazardous devices are only used by properly qualified operators, whilst professional bodies work towards a consensus on minimum training standards.

Cosmetic Techniques↗
PubMed2001

A simplex-optimized chromatographic separation of fourteen cosmetic preservatives: analysis of commercial products.

An ion-interaction high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC)-diode-array detection method is developed and optimized for the separation of typical antimicrobial agents used in cosmetics and hygiene products. The most used preservatives contain different molecular structures, different functionalities, and are characterized by different chemical properties. Organic acids, alkyl esters of benzoic acids, alkyl p-hydroxy benzoic acids (parabens), phenol derivatives, and carbanilides represent the most used preservatives, and are often present in multicomponent mixtures. In order to develop a multicomponent method to be used in quality control analysis, the ion-interaction reagent reversed-phase HPLC technique seems to be particularly suitable, because it allows for the simultaneous separation of acidic, basic, and neutral species. The experimental conditions of the method are developed by OVAT (one variable at a time) treatment and further optimized by a multivariate approach based on a Simplex algorithm that works on a desirability function targeted to maximize the resolution in a multicomponent mixture. The new method proposed that is able to simultaneously separate fourteen preservatives is applied in the analysis of commercial products.

Chromatography, High Pressure Liquid↗
PubMed2006

Determination of genetic toxicity and potential carcinogenicity in vitro--challenges post the Seventh Amendment to the European Cosmetics Directive.

Genetic toxicology and its role in the detection of carcinogens is currently undergoing a period of reappraisal. There is an increasing interest in developing alternatives to animal testing and the three R's of reduction, refinement and replacement are the basis for EU and national animal protection laws the Seventh Amendment to the EU Cosmetics Directive will ban the marketing of cosmetic/personal care products that contain ingredients that have been tested in animal models. Thus in vivo tests such as the bone marrow micronucleus test, which has a key role in current testing strategies for genotoxicity, will not be available for this class of products. The attrition rate for new, valuable and safe chemicals tested in an in vitro-only testing battery, using the in vitro tests currently established for genotoxicity screening, will greatly increase once this legislation is in place. In addition there has been an explosion of knowledge concerning the cellular and molecular events leading to carcinogenesis. This knowledge has not yet been fully factored into screening chemicals for properties that are not directly linked to mutation induction. Thus there is a pressing need for new, more accurate approaches to determine genotoxicity and carcinogenicity. However, a considerable challenge is presented for these new approaches to be universally accepted and new tests sufficiently validated by March 2009 when the animal testing and marketing bans associated with the Seventh Amendment are due to come into force. This commentary brings together ideas and approaches from several international workshops and meetings to consider these issues.

Animal Experimentation↗
PubMed2000

Mercury toxicity due to use of a cosmetic cream.

The Arizona Department of Health Services performed an investigation to determine the health effects associated with the use of a mercury-containing beauty cream. A urine test for mercury was offered to cream users who contacted the Arizona Department of Health Services. Those with urine mercury levels > 20 micrograms/L were offered clinical evaluation. Eighty-nine urine specimens were submitted for testing. Of these, 66 showed an elevated urine mercury level (> 20 micrograms/L), and 55 people were evaluated in clinic. There were no major abnormalities found through physical examination or laboratory testing. Urine mercury levels declined from an initial mean of 170 micrograms/L to 32 micrograms/L at the final test (mean, 139 days later). The high urine mercury levels indicate that the use of this cosmetic cream constitutes a significant exposure. Neuropsychiatric symptoms were frequently reported, but few objective signs were noted.

Adolescent↗
PubMed2005

A cosmetic technique for performing Basal joint arthroplasty.

Longitudinal scars perpendicular to the abductor skin creases of the wrist that result from basal joint arthroplasties can produce scarring that is distracting to both the patient and others. The author presents his technique for performing basal joint arthroplasty through a single transverse incision over the trapezium that blends with the normal creases of the wrist, producing a cosmetically acceptable scar.

Arthroplasty↗
PubMedDate not supplied

Retrobulbar hemorrhage nine days after cosmetic blepharoplasty resulting in permanent visual loss.

A healthy 45-year-old man had a retrobulbar hemorrhage 9 days after cosmetic upper eyelid blepharoplasty that resulted in permanent visual loss. After performing a left lateral canthotomy and cantholysis, intraocular pressure returned to normal and vision improved from no light perception to 20/40; however, the patient did have permanent visual field loss. To our knowledge, this is the longest period of time after blepharoplasty that a retrobulbar hemorrhage occurred. Ophthalmologists should have a heightened level of suspicion 1 to 2 weeks after surgery.

Blepharoplasty↗
PubMed2005

Cosmetic and reconstructive medical tattooing.

PURPOSE OF REVIEW: Cosmetic and reconstructive medical tattooing techniques are being used with a higher frequency than ever before. The volume of scientific research into its basics, however, is too small to prevent the present occurrence of complications. This review shows that most of the recent articles on the subject are in fact case reports and that many of the complications described result from the failure to conduct more research. RECENT FINDINGS: Recent findings include few and relatively unimportant new techniques, studies describing tattoo removal with laser, magnetic displacement and chemical irritants, more findings about infections and allergies, and complications with high field-strength magnetic resonance imaging scans. SUMMARY: Recent literature contains very few useful studies because generally they are not supported by sufficient scientific research.

Coloring Agents↗
PubMed2003

The cosmetic use of botulinum toxin.

The approach to facial rejuvenation continues to evolve. For decades, the primary focus on rejuvenation has centered on modalities such as skin care, skin resurfacing, soft-tissue augmentation, and surgical intervention. A better understanding of the physiologic changes that occur with facial aging lends itself to new approaches and techniques that are mindful of the causes. As animation has shown to be a significant contributor to both the appearance of facial lines and soft-tissue malposition, there has been recent interest in chemodenervating agents and their applications in the field of facial rejuvenation. These agents, by and large, efface rhytides by selective and precise focal paralysis of the underlying facial musculature and, therefore, reduce or eliminate the prominence of the overlying rhytides. In addition, chemodenervation can serve as an adjunct for facial rejuvenation because of its influence on facial soft-tissue position and shape. Botulinum toxin, derived from Clostridium botulinum, is the most widely used agent; therefore, this new modality, its applications in cosmetic plastic surgery, and its applications to other areas will be discussed.

Botulinum Toxins↗
PubMed2004

Compliance in contact allergy with focus on cosmetic labelling: a qualitative research project.

Elimination of the allergen is an effective remedy in allergic contact dermatitis. When contact allergy to a preservative is diagnosed, the patient is instructed to read the labelling of contents and to avoid the use of products containing the allergens. The present study, using qualitative research methods, was performed to examine how socially different groups of patients handle everyday life with allergic contact dermatitis caused by preservatives in consumer products. 8 women were interviewed about reading the ingredient labelling on cosmetic products. Observational studies were carried out as well. The study illustrates that the patients experienced problems when trying to read the labelling of contents. The problems were related to social status and ranged from not being able to read the chemical names of the preservatives to doubting the accuracy of the ingredient labelling. The study indicates that non-compliance with instructions on reading the ingredient labelling is not only a question of patients' lack of knowledge, but also the result of patients not possessing the resources necessary to act in accordance with the medical instructions. The present study is, to our knowledge, the first to apply qualitative research methods to contact dermatitis. The study points out interesting observations about social status and resources in relation to compliance. Further research on this area is necessary to expose the extent of the problem.

Adult↗
PubMed2005

Rosacea and contact allergy to cosmetics and topical medicaments--retrospective analysis of multicentre surveillance data 1995-2002.

The role of contact allergy in rosacea has rarely been investigated. In this retrospective study, 361 out of 76,697 patients tested and documented by the Information Network of Departments of Dermatology between 1995 and 2002 had rosacea. Patch tests included standard series and constituents of cosmetics and topical medicaments. 118/361 had additionally been patch tested with their own cosmetics/medicaments. Positive reactions occurred to nickel (II) sulfate in 9.3%, fragrance mix in 8.8%, thimerosal in 6.9%, Myroxylon pereirae resin in 5.9%, potassium dichromate in 4.6% and propolis in 2.8%. Whereas rosacea patients had a significantly higher risk of contact allergy to propolis compared to the remaining patients, in an age- and sex-adjusted analysis, contact allergy to nickel was significantly less frequent in this group. For Lyral, the risk was elevated, albeit not significantly. Only 2/329 patients were positive to neomycin sulfate and 1/100 to gentamicin sulfate, among the panel of (topical) antibiotics tested. Among 118 patients tested with their own products, 3 were tested to metronidazole, 1 reacting positively. Irritant or doubtful patch test reactions were provoked by various substances (vehicles, oxidants and preservatives of various creams), which might also be clinically important, considering the heightened sensitivity of rosaceous skin.

Administration, Cutaneous↗
PubMed2005

Patch testing with a new fragrance mix - reactivity to the individual constituents and chemical detection in relevant cosmetic products.

UNLABELLED: A new fragrance mix (FM II), with 6 frequently used chemicals not present in the currently used fragrance mix (FM I), was evaluated in 6 dermatological centres in Europe, as previously reported. In this publication, test results with the individual constituents and after repeated open application test (ROAT) of FM II are described. Furthermore, cosmetic products which had caused a contact dermatitis in patients were analysed for the presence of the individual constituents. In 1701 patients, the individual constituents of the medium (14%) and the highest (28%) concentration of FM II were simultaneously applied with the new mix at 3 concentrations (break-down testing for the lowest concentration of FM II (2.8%) was performed only if the mix was positive). ROAT was performed with the concentration of the FM II which had produced a positive or doubtful (+ or ?+) patch test reaction. Patients' products were analysed for the 6 target compounds by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS). RESULTS: 50 patients (2.9%) showed a positive reaction to 14% FM II and 70 patients (4.1%) to 28% FM II. 24/50 (48%) produced a positive reaction to 1 or more of the individual constituents of 14% FM II and 38/70 (54.3%) to 28% FM II, respectively. If doubtful reactions to individual constituents are included, the break-down testing was positive in 74% and 70%, respectively. Patients with a positive reaction to 14% FM II showed a higher rate of reactions to the individual constituent of the 28% FM II: 36/50 (72%). Positive reactions to individual constituents in patients negative to FM II were exceedingly rare. If doubtful reactions are regarded as negative, the sensitivity, specificity, positive predictive value and negative predictive value for the medium concentration of FM II towards at least 1 individual constituent was 92.3% (exact 95% confidence interval 74.9-99.1%), 98.4% (97.7-99.0%), 48% (33.7-62.6%) and 99.9% (99.6-"100.0%), respectively. For the high concentration, the figures were very similar. The frequency of positive reactions to the individual constituents in descending order was the same for both FM II concentrations: hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde (Lyral) > citral > farnesol > citronellol > alpha-hexyl-cinnamic aldehyde (AHCA). No unequivocally positive reaction to coumarin was observed. Lyral) was the dominant individual constituent, with positive reactions in 36% of patients reacting to 14% FM II and 37.1% to 28% FM II. 5/11 patients developed a positive ROAT after a median of 7 days (range 2-10). The 5 patients with a doubtful or negative reaction to 28% FM II were all ROAT negative except 1. There were 7 patients with a certain fragrance history and a positive reaction to either 28% or 14% FM II but a negative reaction to FM I. Analysis with GC-MS in a total of 24 products obtained from 12 patients showed at least 1-5 individual constituents per product: Lyral (79.2%), citronellol (87.5%), AHCA (58.3%), citral (50%) and coumarin (50%). The patients were patch test positive to Lyral, citral and AHCA. In conclusion, patients with a certain fragrance history and a negative reaction to FM I can be identified by FM II. Testing with individual constituents is positive in about 50% of cases reacting to either 14% or 28% FM II.

Acrolein↗
PubMed2006

Cutaneous sarcoidal granulomas developing after Artecoll facial cosmetic filler in a patient with newly diagnosed systemic sarcoidosis.

Artecoll is a recently developed permanent synthetic cosmetic filler substance, composed of 80% bovine collagen and 20% polymethylacrylate (PMMA) microspheres of 32-40 mum in diameter. It is used for the augmentation of deep wrinkles and is to be injected subdermally. We report the development of granulomas at the site of Artecoll injections in the face in a 48-year-old woman who had pulmonary sarcoidosis. There were features consistent of both sarcoid and foreign-body granuloma, typical of those reported previously with Artecoll. We postulate that the PMMA foreign material contained within Artecoll acted as a stimulus for the development of the cutaneous sarcoid granulomas.

Antimutagenic Agents↗
PubMed1993

A study of the use of rapid methods for preservative efficacy testing of pharmaceuticals and cosmetics.

Three rapid microbiological methods, impedance, the direct epifluorescence technique (DEFT-MEM) and ATP bioluminescence (ATP-B) were evaluated for their applicability to preservative efficacy testing (PET) of pharmaceuticals and cosmetics. A good correlation between rapid method response and total colony counts was obtained for untreated suspensions of Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa and Candida albicans with all three methods but, for Aspergillus niger, with impedance only. For chlorhexidine-treated suspensions of Staph. Aureus and C. albicans, a good dose-response curve was obtained with impedance, but ATP-B and DEFT-MEM methods underestimated the kill by the order of 1-6 logs. From the results of this study it is concluded that impedance offers an alternative method to colony counting methods for PET but, at their present level of method development, neither DEFT-MEM nor ATP-B can be considered as satisfactory.

Bacteria↗
PubMed1989

Cytotoxicity and mutagenicity of 'Al-Kohl', an eye cosmetic commonly used in Jordan.

We examined 50 samples of 'Al-Kohl', collected from northern Jordanian provinces, for their cytotoxicity and mutagenicity using the brine shrimp and Ames Salmonella mutagenicity bioassays, respectively. Twenty were unopened, ready-to-use, samples purchased from retail outlets, 20 were in-use samples obtained from ladies of different socioeconomic standards, and 10 samples were from the original stones used to prepare Al-Kohl. The frequency of positive samples for both cytotoxicity and mutagenicity was much higher in the ready-to-use and in-use samples of Al-Kohl than in the original stones. Out of the 50 samples examined, 20 (40%) showed some degree of cytotoxicity almost all involving ready-to-use or in-use samples. Among those samples, 12 (24%) were strongly cytotoxic, while eight samples (16%) showed mild cytotoxic activity in the brine shrimp bioassay. The results of the mutagenicity testing were obtained, without using any metabolic activation, with four test strains of Salmonella, namely TA97, TA98, TA100 and TA102. Wide variability in results was observed depending on the type of samples tested and the Salmonella strain used. More than 80% of the original stone samples were negative and the positive ones were mildly mutagenic while the ready-to-use and in-use samples showed similar mutagenicity, which was much more than the original stones against the four strains of Salmonella typhimurium used. Strain TA97 was particularly sensitive to the samples tested. Twelve per cent of the ready-to-use and in-use samples of Al-Kohl showed a strong mutagenic effect against the pre-mentioned strains. We recommended abandoning Al-Kohl as a cosmetic for application to the eye areas, based on these findings and the previous microbial contamination studies (2).

Animals↗
PubMed2004

A randomized open-label study of immediate versus delayed polylactic acid injections for the cosmetic management of facial lipoatrophy in persons with HIV infection.

BACKGROUND: Polylactic acid (PLA, New-Fill; Medifill, London, UK and Dermic Labs, a division of Eventis, Strasbourg, France) injections into the deep dermis increase fibroblast numbers and collagen production. The substance is widely used in medical applications including cosmetic procedures. METHODS: HIV-positive individuals with facial lipoatrophy (based on physician assessment) were randomized to immediate (weeks 0, 2 and 4) or delayed (weeks 12, 14 and 16) PLA given as three bilateral injections 2 weeks apart into the deep dermis overlying the buccal fat pad. Assessments included facial ultrasound, visual analogue scales, the Hospital Anxiety and Depression Scale (HADS) and assessment using photographs at weeks 0, 12 and 24. RESULTS: All 30 patients completed 24 weeks of treatment. The median age of the patients was 41 years, with a mean of 80 months of nucleoside reverse transcriptase inhibitor (NRTI) therapy and a mean of 44 months of prior protease inhibitor (PI) therapy. The median CD4 count was 428-460 cells/microL, with 47% of patients in the immediate-treatment group and 93% of patients in the delayed-treatment groups with <50 HIV-1 RNA copies/mL at baseline. No differences in immunological, virological, biochemical, haematological or metabolic parameters emerged during the study. Injections were well tolerated with only two adverse events (cellulitis and bruising) recorded, one of which delayed treatment by 1 week. There were no discontinuations. Patient visual analogue assessments, photographic assessments, and anxiety and depression scores improved with treatment. At week 12, immediate-treatment patients had significantly better visual analogue scores (7 vs. 1, P<0.001) and lower anxiety scores (6 vs. 9, P=0.056) than delayed-treatment patients. Benefits on visual analogue and HADS scores persisted until week 24. CONCLUSIONS: PLA injections led to improvements in patient self-perception, anxiety and depression scores in individuals with facial lipoatrophy. Adverse events were uncommon. The benefits of PLA persisted for at least 18 weeks beyond the last injection.

Administration, Cutaneous↗