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Sebum, cosmetics, and skin care.

Recent contributions to the understanding of the physiology and biochemistry of sebum production and of the lipids on the skin surface are leading to the development of effective strategies to regulate excessive sebum production and its consequences through the use of cosmetics and skin care products.

Acne Vulgaris↗

Colored facial cosmetics.

Colored cosmetics are an important part of the dermatologic armamentarium. They can camouflage contour and pigment abnormalities, provide moisturization, enhance oil control, add sun protection, deliver barrier-enhancing agents, increase acne treatment, and create a sense of personal well-being. Familiarity with these products allows the dermatologist to provide better patient care.

Color↗

Appearance, cosmetics, and body art in adolescents.

Appearance in adolescents is a means of communication, a language expressing self identity. Teenagers explore fashions to make personal statements. Teenagers are significant consumers of various toiletry and skin care products that fill their cleansing, hydrating, and photoprotective needs. They also are enthusiastic consumers of products aimed at adolescent fads, such as decorative hair and nail cosmetics. For some teenagers, the expression of individualism is achieved through body art, such as tattooing and body piercing. Areas of concern are the lack of motivation for sun protection and the risky behavior associated with body piercing and tattooing.

Adolescent↗

Patch testing to cosmetics and topical drugs.

Evaluating patients with a possible cosmetic or medicament allergy is an excellent way for dermatologists to become acquainted with using patch test substances beyond the standard tray. Testing should include standard tray allergens and almost all topical products themselves. False-positive and false-negative results must always be considered in evaluating patch test results. Repeat open application testing can be useful in confirming patch test results, but it is best to test each ingredient separately. If they are willing to take the time, dermatologists can easily and efficiently evaluate these patients.

Allergens↗

Aminoethylethanolamine: a new allergen in cosmetics?

Amphoacetates are organic compounds used in many industrial applications and in cosmetic formulations for the skin, hair and mucosa, as surfactants, mild foaming and cleansing agents in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 50%. Despite the fact that they have been in use for many years, cases of contact allergy to them are extremely rare. We describe 4 patients who developed an eczematous reaction after use of detergents containing amphoacetates. Patch testing showed positive reactions to sodium lauroamphoacetate (Miranol HM Special, Rhodia, England) as is or diluted at decreasing concentration (10%, 5% and 1%) in water and to aminoethylethanolamine (AEE) at the concentration of 1% in various vehicles (ethanol, acetone, and sodium laurylethersulfate 1% aqueous solution) and at decreasing concentrations ranging from 1% to 0.005% in water. AEE is one of the reagents used in the synthesis of amphoacetates. This molecule, that is structurally an ethylenediamine derivative, has sensitizing power and is reported as a cause of occupational contact allergy in cable jointers. Combined eczematous reactions to AEE and sodium lauroamphoacetate can be consequent to the presence of the former substance as an impurity in amphoacetates-containing products, as demonstrated by ion chromatography-mass spectrometry analysis.

Adult↗

Contact sensitization from Compositae-containing herbal remedies and cosmetics.

The Compositae (Asteraceae) family of plants is currently an important cause of allergic plant contact dermatitis in Europe. The family comprises some of the oldest and most valued medicinal plants, and the increasing popularity of herbal medicine and cosmetics may theoretically result in a growing number of Compositae sensitizations from these sources. According to the literature at least 15 species, including among others arnica (Arnica montana), German and Roman chamomile (Chamomilla recutita and Chamaemelum nobile), marigold (Calendula officinalis), Echinacea and elecampane (Inula helenium), have been suspected of sensitization or elicitation of Compositae dermatitis. Epidemiological data are available for 2 species only, arnica and German chamomile, the rest of the evidence being anecdotal. Based on this, sensitization seems to occur relatively frequently with a few species such as arnica and elecampane, and occurs rarely with the majority, especially the widely used German chamomile. Sesquiterpene lactones are the most important allergens, but there are a few cases of sensitization from a coumarin, a sesquiterpene alcohol and a thiophene. The risk of elicitation of dermatitis by using Compositae-containing products in Compositae-sensitive individuals is by-and-large unknown.

Allergens↗

Archaeology: formulation of a Roman cosmetic.

The discovery of a small tin canister in London during archaeological excavations of a Roman temple precinct, dated to the middle of the second century AD, is a landmark in the study of this class of artefact. Such discoveries from the Roman world are rare and this is the only one to be found so far with its lid and contents--a whitish medicinal or cosmetic cream--providing a unique opportunity for us to study the ancient formulation.

Animals↗

Determination of formaldehyde in liquid, solid and semisolid pharmaceuticals and cosmetics by flow injection-pervaporation.

A spectrophotometric method is proposed for the determination of formaldehyde in liquid, solid and semisolid cosmetic and pharmaceutical samples, employing, for the first time in this field, the coupling of a continuous flow configuration to a pervaporation unit. The method is based on the reaction of the analyte with pararosaniline in acidic medium and subsequent formation of a coloured product (alkylsulfonic acid chromophore) with sodium sulfite, which was monitored spectrophotometrically. The method was applied to samples in which the formaldehyde content is regulated by law.

Cosmetics↗

Monoparameter sensors for the determination of the antioxidants butylated hydroxyanisole and n-propyl gallate in foods and cosmetics by flow injection spectrophotometry.

A flow-through optosensor with solid phase UV spectroscopic detection is proposed for the direct determination of single antioxidants, namely butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA) and n-propyl gallate (n-PG), without previous derivatization. The methods are based on the transient retention behaviour of these compounds in a flow-through cell packed with C-18 silica using ethanol-water mixtures as a carrier, and on the intrinsic absorbance monitored at 290 and 283 nm, respectively. After recording the analytical signal, the antioxidants were easily and quickly desorbed from the solid support by the same carrier. For BHA, calibration graphs were linear over the range 1.0-300.0 mg L-1 using area as the analytical parameter. The relative standard deviation (RSD) was between 0.5 and 1.6%. For n-PG, calibration graphs were linear over the range 1.0-300.0 mg L-1 in area and the RSD was between 1.4 and 1.5%. The methods were applied to the determination of these antioxidants in several food and cosmetics samples, and were validated using the standard additions method and an HPLC reference method.

Antioxidants↗

Cosmetic dermatology: no need for an apology.

Cosmetic dermatology should be an established part of the practice of dermatology. No ifs, ands, or buts. Patients want to look their best, and they have every right to achieve this goal.

Cosmetic Techniques↗

Adverse granulomatous reaction after cosmetic dermal silicone injection.

BACKGROUND: Various alloplastic injectable implants have been developed for soft tissue augmentation without surgery, but different local or systemic adverse reactions have limited their use for cosmetic purposes. OBJECTIVE: To examine the problems associated with silicone injection. METHODS: Case report and literature review. RESULTS: We describe an adverse granulomatous reaction after the injection of liquid silicone for lip augmentation, causing facial disfigurement. Although the initial response to steroids was poor, after 3 years of follow-up the nodules have almost disappeared spontaneously. CONCLUSION: We advise that silicone injection be performed solely by trained physicians using medical-grade silicone or consider other injectable materials.

Cosmetic Techniques↗

Measuring quality of life in cosmetic surgery patients with a condition-specific instrument: the Derriford Scale.

OBJECTIVE: To assess the reliability, validity and sensitivity to change of the Derriford Scale, a quality of life instrument designed to assess the distress and dysfunction experienced by people who are self-conscious about their physical appearance. SUBJECTS AND DESIGN: Postal questionnaire survey of 656 cosmetic surgery patients recruited from new referral letters and plastic surgery waiting list reports. A total of 443 subjects completed and returned the questionnaire. Of these respondents, 203 were sent a second questionnaire to assess reproducibility, of whom 155 subjects responded. MAIN OUTCOME MEASURES: Reliability was assessed in terms of internal consistency and reproducibility. Face, content and construct validity were also investigated. RESULTS: The analyses led to mixed results. There was some evidence of internal consistency, but a number of items had low endorsement levels and there may be scope for reducing the overall size of the instrument. When assessed for reproducibility, the level of agreement between scores of individuals completing the questionnaire on two occasions was high, but an important systematic shift in responses was also detected. Correlations between the other health status measures and the Derriford Scale provided some evidence of construct validity. CONCLUSION: In its present form the Derriford Scale has good descriptive value, but there are some measurement problems identified in this report that need to be addressed before the scale is taken up into general use.

Adult↗

[Problems arising from the use of cosmetics on the lid margin (author's transl)].

Report on clinical and histopathological changes of the conjunctiva after long-term use of cosmetics containing carbon black (mascara, eyeliner) on the lid margin. Penetration of tiny pigmented particles into the stroma of the conjunctiva initially causes a follicular reaction which is evidently toxic, and later, results in a chronic follicular-papillary reaction.

Cosmetics↗

Estrogenic activity of cosmetic components in reporter cell lines: parabens, UV screens, and musks.

In this work, the estrogenic effects of three classes of substances included in cosmetic formulations-parabens, ultraviolet (UV) screens, and musk fragrances-were studied. Their estrogenic activity was measured with the use of three reporter cell lines: HELN, HELN ERalpha, and HELN ERbeta. These three cell lines allowed for the measurement of estrogenic activity toward estrogen receptors alpha and beta (ERalpha and ERbeta, while taking nonspecific interactions into account. Eight of the 15 substances tested showed specific estrogenic activity with the following degree of potency on ERalpha butylparaben > propylparaben > homosalate = octyl-dimethyl-PABA = 4-methyl-benzylidenecamphor = octyl-methoxycinnamate > ethylparaben = galaxolide. Among these active substances, parabens activated ERalpha and ERbeta similarly, UV screens activated ERalpha moderately and had almost no effect on ERbeta, and fragrances did not activate ERbeta. Methylparaben, ethylparaben, musk moskene, celestolide, and cashmeran did not activate estrogenic responses up to 10(-5) M. Musk ketone and benzophenone-3 were not considered estrogenic at 10(-5) M.

Cell Line↗

Nail primer cosmetics: correlations between product pH and adequacy of labeling.

BACKGROUND: We have previously reported on injuries suffered by young children exposed to methacrylic acid-containing nail primers and the need for public education efforts concerning this potential household hazard. However, some primers contain alternative ingredients, which may or may not pose the same risk; product labeling information is variable and may be confusing to consumers. OBJECTIVE: To investigate the relationship between pH of different primer products, product contents, and appropriateness of product labeling and packaging. METHODS: Twenty-three commercially available primers were grouped by product contents: (methacrylic acid vs others). Product pH was measured and product labels were scored on 7 warning points: "poison and/or corrosive," a "caution to avoid contact and/or to use a barrier when handling the product," a "skin first aid," and "eye first aid," an "ingestion first aid," a caution to "keep out of reach of children," and a "in emergency, contact a poison center." A summative "global hazard notification score" was calculated for each product. Data were analyzed using correlations and the two-sample t-test. RESULTS: None of 23 products tested were contained in a child-resistant container and none included all 7 label items. Product pH ranged from 1.90-8.55 (mean pH 4.59 +/- 1.99); 20 products had pH < 7.0. Only 1 product advised, in the event of a poisoning, that a poison center be contacted. Of 20 acidic products, only 7 alerted users that the contents could cause burns. The mean global hazard notification score (MAX = 7) was 3.6; global hazard notification score did not correlate with pH. Methacrylic acid-containing products had a lower pH (mean 3.43 +/- 0.78) than those without methacrylic acid (mean 5.34 +/- 2.18), p = 0.008. When the primer bottle was separated from the rest of the packaging which comprised the artificial nail "kit," 50% of products lost all of their warning information. CONCLUSIONS: Most, but not all, artificial nail primers analyzed in this study were highly acidic. Labeling and packaging of many nail primers are inadequate, given the potential of methacrylic acid in these products to cause burns and the toxicity of most nail primers. We agree with the Consumer Product Safety Commission's recently proposed rule to require cosmetic manufacturers to repackage methacrylic acid-containing household products in child-resistant containers. We also urge manufacturers to alert consumers to the hazards of nail primers by better labeling. Manufacturers should also investigate the feasibility of either substituting other chemicals or lowering the concentration of methacrylic acid.

Cosmetics↗

A new method for quality control of zinc pyritione pharmaceutical and cosmetic forms.

A simple high-performance liquid chromatographic (HPLC) method was developed to determine zinc pyritione in pharmaceutical and cosmetic products. Reversed-phase chromatography was conducted using a C18 column with an isocratic mobile phase consisting of a suitable mixture of methanol, acetonitrile, and water (30:2.5:20). The effluent was monitored on a ultraviolet (UV) detector at 243 nm. The method was validated following International Conference on Harmonisation (ICH) suggestions and proved accurate, precise, and specific.

Chromatography, High Pressure Liquid↗

Q fever outbreak at a cosmetics supply factory.

Q fever is a zoonotic disease that is most commonly associated with outbreaks in slaughterhouses. We describe an outbreak of 4 cases occurring in a factory that processes ovine fetal products for the cosmetics industry. It is important that industries typically not associated with risk of Q fever are made aware of potential health risks that workers might be exposed to so further outbreaks might be prevented.

Adult↗