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Determination of sunscreen agents in cosmetic products using microwave-assisted extraction and liquid chromatography.

Microwave-assisted extraction (MAE), was used to extract sunscreen agents from cosmetic products. The extracts were analyzed by liquid chromatography (LC). The present method allows the determination of three sunscreen agents, Eusolex 2292, 4360 and 6300. The precision of the assay at 40 microg/ml of sunscreen agents ranged from 1.5 to 2.2%, and the detection limits were 2.0-4.0 ng/ml.

Calibration↗

High-performance liquid chromatographic determination of six p-hydroxybenzoic acid esters in cosmetics using Sep-Pak florisil cartridges for sample pre-treatment.

A rapid and simple method is described for the simultaneous determination of methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, isobutyl and n-butyl p-hydroxybenzoic acid esters (parabens) in cosmetics by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). The method involves a single extraction of parabens with diethyl ether and clean-up on a Sep-Pak Florisil cartridge. Fat-soluble excipients in the diethyl ether extracts are removed through the cartridges with hexane-chloroform (75:25). Parabens are then eluted from the cartridges with hexane-ethyl acetate (70:30) and determined by HPLC on a reversed-phase column with water-methanol (50:50) as the mobile phase using sec.-butylpraben as an internal standard. The method was applied to samples with complicated matrices such as cream, milk lotion, lotion and cleansing foam, and the recoveries were 99.0-102.3% with coefficients of variation of 0.3-1.2%.

Chromatography, High Pressure Liquid↗

Determination of allantoin and chlorohydroxyaluminium allantoinate in cosmetic and pharmaceutical products by high-performance liquid chromatography.

A high-performance liquid chromatographic method is described for convenient and direct determination of allantoin derivatives, by which as little as 0.1 micrograms of the compounds can be determined without any conventional sample preparation required to eliminate interferences. Chromatographic separation on a resin-based strong cation exchanger (H+) using water as eluent is combined with sensitive and selective post-column reaction of the allantoin derivatives. After dissolution of the sample in hot water, the determinations take 12 min per sample. The relative standard deviation is less than 1.8% and quantitative recoveries are obtained. Several commercial cosmetic and pharmaceutical products were analysed successfully. The method can be applied to test the stability of the compounds in formulations.

Allantoin↗

Photomutagenicity of cosmetic ingredient chemicals azulene and guaiazulene.

The photomutagenicity of the popular skin conditioning agents azulene and guaiazulene were tested in Salmonella typhimurium TA98, TA100 and TA102. Following irradiation with UVA and/or visible light, both azulene and guaiazulene exhibited mutagenicity 4-5-fold higher than the spontaneous background mutation. In contrary, naphthalene, a structural isomer of azulene, was not photomutagenic under the same conditions. Azulene was photomutagenic when irradiated with UVA light alone, visible light alone, or a combination of UVA and visible light. Azulene and guaiazulene are not mutagenic when the experiment is conducted with the exclusion of light. Therefore, extreme care must be taken when using cosmetic products with azulene/guaiazulene as ingredients since after applying these products on the skin, exposure to sunlight is inevitable.

Azulenes↗

Solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN) and nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC) in cosmetic and dermatological preparations.

Solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN) were developed at the beginning of the 1990 s as an alternative carrier system to emulsions, liposomes and polymeric nanoparticles. The paper reviews advantages-also potential limitations-of SLN for the use in topical cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations. Features discussed include stabilisation of incorporated compounds, controlled release, occlusivity, film formation on skin including in vivo effects on the skin. As a novel type of lipid nanoparticles with solid matrix, the nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC) are presented, the structural specialties described and improvements discussed, for example, increase in loading capacity, physical and chemical long-term stability, triggered release and potentially supersaturated topical formulations. For both SLN and NLC, the technologies to produce the final topical formulation are described, especially the production of highly concentrated lipid nanoparticle dispersions >30-80% lipid content. Production issues also include clinical batch production, large scale production and regulatory aspects (e. g. status of excipients or proof of physical stability).

Administration, Topical↗

[Upper cosmetic blepharoplasty and the eye brow].

Upper cosmetic blepharoplasty allows to treat cutaneo-orbicularis excess of the upper eyelid, which is often associated with fat prolapse. Using the same surgical way, it is also possible to treat external heaviness of the brow, mild brow ptosis and glabellar wrinkles. We will describe the most important stages of these different surgical techniques.

Blepharoplasty↗

Reducing sensitizing potential by pharmaceutical and cosmetic design.

This article offers some considerations on the reduction of the sensitizing potential of pharmaceutical and cosmetic products by means of proper design. First, there is the obvious strategy of the elimination or reduction in the concentration of notorious sensitizers, but cross-reactions may be significant. The purity and standardization of both natural and synthetic products are of utmost importance. The role of antioxidants, sequestering agents, neutralizers, and quenching agents is discussed since such substances may inhibit the action or formation of skin-sensitizing products.

Allergens↗

The cosmetic ingredient review--a safety evaluation program.

A review of the procedures, methods used, and the data that are required to evaluate the safety of cosmetic ingredients is presented. The results of the program and the limitations placed upon the use of some ingredients are discussed.

Consumer Product Safety↗

Electroporation-mediated topical delivery of vitamin C for cosmetic applications.

It is now medically recognized that sagging skin and other signs of degenerative skin conditions, such as wrinkles and age spots, are caused primarily by oxy-radical damage. Vitamin C (Vit. C), in the form of L-ascorbic acid (Asc), is the one vitamin that can accelerate wound healing, protect fatty tissues from oxidation damage, and play an integral role in collagen synthesis. It is known that the lipid-rich stratum corneum (SC) is a highly resistant barrier to chemical agents penetrating into the skin. This report describes the first feasibility study of electroporation-mediated topical delivery (EMTD) of Asc for potential cosmetic applications. Both a cream formulation (20% Asc) and a crystal suspension (33% Asc) were applied respectively to human cadaver skin and fresh surgical skin. Six exponential pulses at 60 or 100 V and pulse lengths of 2.7-30 ms were selected. EMTD was more effective on fresh human skin than on human cadaver skin. For both skin models, EMTD with cream resulted in a greater enhancement of Vit. C penetration than with suspension. The distribution of electrical fields through the SC, epidermis, and dermis is demonstrated in computer simulation. Assuming that this fresh skin model and certain experimental conditions simulate projected in vivo applications, EMTD of Vit. C may represent an alternative method to ameliorate skin aging.

Administration, Topical↗

Cancer chemopreventive activity of synthetic colorants used in foods, pharmaceuticals and cosmetic preparations.

In continuation with our studies to uncover cancer chemopreventive effects of non-toxic natural colorants and other products of biologic and synthetic origin, we tested several Food and Drug Administration-approved synthetic colorants for antitumor promoting potential by the in vitro Epstein-Barr virus early antigen activation in Raji cells in response to the tumor promoter 12-O-tetradecanoylphorbol-13-acetate (TPA). Among 29 such colorants used in foods, pharmaceuticals and cosmetics and evaluated in vitro, six of the 10 most effective had an azo group. Three structurally unrelated colorants tested in this assay were also studied in vivo for chemoprevention of 7,12-dimethylbenz[a]anthracene (DMBA)-induced TPA-promoted mouse skin carcinogenesis. The results indicate that tartrazine, indigo carmine and erythrosine are potent inhibitors of skin tumor promotion in mice treated with DMBA and TPA.

9,10-Dimethyl-1,2-benzanthracene↗

Microwave-assisted preparation of cyclic ketals from a cineole ketone as potential cosmetic ingredients: solvent-free synthesis, odour evaluation, in vitro cytotoxicity and antimicrobial assays.

Some cyclic ketals derived from (+)1,3,3-trimethyl-2-oxabicyclo[2.2.2]octan-6-one were obtained in excellent yields by microwave activation under solvent-free conditions, as a 'green chemistry' procedure. The results obtained using acidic alumina containing 7% p-toluenesulfonic acid, as mineral support, are reported and compared with those obtained by classical methods. The new compounds were tested for their olfactive character and for a potential cosmetic use. In vitro skin cytotoxicity tests were carried out on the most promising compounds, by using NCTC 2544 human keratinocytes as target cells. They all displayed slight cytotoxic effects which were one order of magnitude lower than those found with sodium dodecylsulphate positive control. Two compounds that resulted interesting as toothpaste aromas, were submitted to antimicrobial assays and showed their activity against Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus hominis, Propionibacterium acnes and Candida albicans.

Anti-Infective Agents↗

Sucrose cocoate, a component of cosmetic preparations, enhances nasal and ocular peptide absorption.

Sucrose cocoate (SL-40), an emulsifier employed in emollient, skin-moisturizing cosmetic formulations, contains a mixture of sucrose esters of coconut fatty acids in aqueous ethanol solution. In order to determine its potential utility in enhancing nasal and ocular drug delivery, absorption studies were performed in anesthetized Sprague-Dawley male rats with calcitonin and insulin, two distinct therapeutic peptides. Administration of a nasal insulin formulation containing 0.5% sucrose cocoate caused a rapid and significant increase in plasma insulin levels, with a concomitant decrease in blood glucose levels. When insulin was administered ocularly in the presence of 0.5% sucrose cocoate, a smaller increase in plasma insulin levels, and a decrease in blood glucose levels, were observed. Administration of a nasal calcitonin formulation containing 0.5% sucrose cocoate caused a rapid increase in plasma calcitonin levels and a concomitant decrease in plasma calcium levels. Mass spectrometric analyses were used to characterize the nature of the sucrose fatty acid esters in the mixture. The most abundant sucrose ester in sucrose cocoate was sucrose monododecanoate, with smaller amounts of sucrose monodecanoate and sucrose monotetradecanoate. In vivo experiments confirmed that this ester was an effective enhancer of nasal peptide drug absorption.

Absorption↗

Composition of eye cosmetics (kohls) used in Oman.

A total of 47 kohl samples, primarily used as traditional eye cosmetics, were analyzed using X-ray powder diffraction (XRPD) and scanning electron microscopy (SEM). It was found that, of the 18 Omani-made kohls, the main component of five was galena (PbS). Of the other 13, 12 were based on amorphous carbon and one on hematite (Fe2O3). The remaining samples were made in other countries and were found to contain one of the following as the main component: galena, minium (Pb3O4), amorphous carbon, magnetite (Fe3O4), zincite (ZnO), calcite (CaCO3) or sassolite (H3BO3).

Carbon↗

Colorimetric and fluorimetric methods for determination of panthenol in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulation.

Two methods are suggested for determination of panthenol. The first is colorimetric method where panthenol is subjected to alkaline hydrolysis; the resulting beta-alanol is allowed to react with vanillin (Duquenois reagent) in presence of McIlvain buffer pH 7.5. The color developed is measured at 406 nm. The linearity range was found to be 50-500 microg/ml while the lower limit of detection was about 10 microg/ml. The second is a sensitive and reliable modified fluorimetric method is also suggested, whereas panthenol, after alkaline hydrolysis is treated with ninhydrin. The fluorescent product was found to have excitation lambda(max) at 385 nm and emission lambda(max) at 465 nm. The method showed high sensitivity with linearity range from 0.01 to 3 microg/ml. The lower limit of detection (LOQ) reached 0.005 microg/ml. Validation of both methods was carried out and the two methods were applied for determination of panthenol in some cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations.

Chemistry, Pharmaceutical↗

Simultaneous HPLC determination of hydrophilic whitening agents in cosmetic products.

A high-performance liquid chromatographic method for quantifying four of the most common used hydrophilic whitening agent--glycolic acid (GA), ascorbic acid (AA), arbutin (ART) and Mg ascorbyl phosphate (MAP), has been developed. Isocratic separation was performed using a C18 column with ion-pair agent as mobile phase. The analytes were detected by ultraviolet light absorption at the wavelength of 220 and 240 nm, respectively. Calibration curves were found to be linear in the 8.0-36 mg/ml (GA), 10.0-300 microg/ml (AA and ART), and 5.6-451 microg/ml (MAP). The correlation coefficient of linear regression analysis were with the range 0.9974-0.9997. Recoveries of the four analytes were between 94.8 and 100.1% and the precision of this method was better than 6.9% relative standard deviation (R.S.D.) (n=3). It was found that AA degraded in an aqueous solution. To be sure that AA was stable during the HPLC analysis, all analytes were dissolved in distilled water and these solutions were purged with nitrogen gas to remove oxygen and stored at 25 degrees C. The testing results show that the procedure is rapid, simple, selective method and it is suitable for routine analysis of commercial cosmetics.

Ascorbic Acid↗

Hydrogen peroxide determination in pharmaceutical formulations and cosmetics using a new catalase biosensor.

The possibility of evaluating the content of hydrogen peroxide in several authentic matrices, such as cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations, was studied. A new catalase biosensor fabricated using an amperometric gas-diffusion oxygen sensor as electrochemical transducer and the catalase enzyme immobilized in kappa-carrageenan gel and capable of operating in both aqueous and non aqueous solvents was developed and tested for this purpose. Creams, emulsions and disinfectant solutions were analysed. To this end, a preliminary check was needed to establish the best conditions to analyse these matrices; the choice of solvent was one of the most important points studied. The solvents considered included dioxane, water-dioxane mixtures, water saturated chloroform and aqueous solutions. The different solubility properties of the matrices analysed were taken into account.

Biosensing Techniques↗

Simultaneous HPLC determination of multiple components in a commercial cosmetic cream.

A high-performance liquid chromatographic method for the simultaneous determination of magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (I), imidazolidinylurea (II), a mixture of methyl-(III), ethyl-(IV), propyl-(V), butyl-(VI) parabens dissolved in phenoxyethanol, and ascorbyl palmitate (VII), was studied by using a cyano-propyl column and a methanol gradient at 220 and 240 nm. Calibration curves were found to be linear in the 0.05-5 mg ml(-1) range (compounds I, II, VII) and 0.9-160 mg ml(-1) (compounds III-VI). Linear regression analysis of the data demonstrates the efficacy of the method in terms of precision and accuracy. An extraction method is developed and validated in order to apply this chromatographic method to a commercial cosmetic cream. The precision of this method, calculated as the relative standard deviation (RSD) of the recoveries (1.57-2.21%) was excellent for all compounds I-VII.

Ascorbic Acid↗

Ethnic cosmetic products.

Based both on actual differences in the hair and skin and on cultural desire, people of color do have special considerations for cosmetic products. As the experts in hair and skin, it is incumbent on dermatologists to understand the needs of a diverse patient base, to be knowledgeable about the products that patients need and desire, and to be aware of possible adverse effects related to product use or misuse. Further research is needed both to continue to understand the needs of the hair and skin of people of color and to understand the effects of products on ethnic hair and skin.

Consumer Product Safety↗