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Nail diseases related to nail cosmetics.

The use of nail care products and procedures to beautify and groom the nails is extremely common. Unfortunately, when improperly used, nail cosmetics can lead to nail diseases, such as paronychia, onycholysis, and brittle nails. Understanding the pathophysiology behind these conditions is an essential step toward better treatment and future prevention allowing patients to enjoy nail adornments while maintaining healthy nails.

Cosmetics↗

Nail cosmetics.

Nail cosmetics are used worldwide by millions of women who desire attractive, adorned nails. Smooth, shiny fingernails and toenails are highly desirable and an entire industry is devoted to achieving that end for the consumer. The grooming and decoration of nails is a well-ingrained cultural ritual in many countries of the world. In the United States alone, US dollars 6.4 billion was spent on nail salon services in the year 2004.

Cosmetics↗

Eye irritation of low-irritant cosmetic formulations: correlation of in vitro results with clinical data and product composition.

Alternative methods to the Draize eye irritation test, such as the hen's egg test-chorioallantoic membrane (HET-CAM) or the bovine corneal opacity and permeability (BCOP) tests, are currently used to evaluate the irritant potential of cosmetic or consumer products. Although, for strong irritants, the results of these tests correlate well with those of the Draize test, they appear to be less suited to identify mild irritants. In order to improve the sensitivity of alternative eye irritation tests, we developed a novel method that uses a human corneal epithelial cell line (CEPI), and the endpoints of cytotoxicity and IL-8 release. Twelve make-up removers were assessed by the HET-CAM, BCOP and CEPI tests, as well as in a clinical in-use test under ophthalmological control after their application to the external eye lid. In addition, we investigated the impact of osmolality and raw material composition on in vitro and clinical results and compared the in vitro results with those of clinical studies. Overall, although HET-CAM results were unrelated to eye discomfort and adverse clinical signs, they correlated mainly with the presence and concentration of surfactants in the test articles. BCOP scores were unrelated to clinical signs, but related mainly to glycol and sodium lactate content and concentration in the test articles. Cytotoxicity in CEPI mainly correlated with presence and concentrations of surfactants, and IL-8 release to clinical signs and/or glycol and sodium lactate concentrations. Overall, IL-8 release appeared to be the most sensitive and reliable endpoint to predict human eye tolerance to mildly irritant products. Although our results suggest that the IL-8 assay appears to be a promising screen for borderline-irritant formulations, further experiments are required to confirm and validate these preliminary results.

Allantois↗

The evaluation of cosmetic and pharmaceutical emulsions aging process using classical techniques and a new method: FTIR.

The purpose of this paper is to show how the utilization of Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy can be interesting in stability studying of cosmetic or pharmaceutical "oil in water" (O/W) emulsions. In this study temperature storage tests were performed to accelerate the aging process and evaluate the stability of five emulsions. Emulsions were analyzed by FTIR and classical methods (conductivity, viscosity, pH, texture analysis) in order to determine a method that would enable predicting the emulsion's stability. During the aging process, modifications of chemical functions are measured by FTIR (using spectrometric indices), such modifications included: a decrease of unsaturation index, an increase of carbonyl index and a broadening of the carbonyl band. This band was deconvoluted to evaluate the contribution of different species in the broadening phenomenon, which seems to be caused by the appearance of free fatty acids. Conductimetry seems to be the most sensitive technique to assess physical modifications during emulsion's aging. Concerning the most unstable emulsions, a progressive increasing of conductivity was observed several months before the emulsion destabilizes. Consequently, FTIR and conductimetry are two complementary techniques. Conductimetry is a useful technique to predict emulsion destabilization while FTIR allows the measurement of chemical modifications and helps to understand the chemical mechanisms which occur during the oxidation.

Cosmetics↗

Identification of 2-nonynoic acid, a cosmetic component, as a potential trigger of primary biliary cirrhosis.

Antimitochondrial antibodies (AMA) are unique among autoimmune serologic reactants because of their extremely high association with the index disease primary biliary cirrhosis (PBC). This autoantibody response is specifically directed only to the lipoyl domain of the mitochondrial 2-oxo-acid dehydrogenase complexes, which prompted us to search for environmental mimotopes in the form of xenobiotics and led to our identification of 2-octynoic acid as a high-affinity reactant for AMA. To focus on the chemical characteristics requisite for binding of AMA to the xenobiotic-modified self-peptide, quantitative structure-activity relationship (QSAR) studies were performed using a panel of alkynoic compounds, including examination of the length of the carbon chain and the location of the triple bond in the identified mimotope. Analyses of octynamides that varied in the position of the triple bond demonstrated that only the 2-octynamide reacted strongly with PBC sera. Furthermore, among 2-alkynamides with varying carbon chain length, 2-octyn-, 2-nonyn- (particularly) and 2-decynamide exhibited the highest reactivity. Thus, an optimal chemical structure of the xenobiotically modified epitope recognized by AMA-positive PBC sera is provided by 2-nonynoic acid. The methyl ester of this compound is ranked 2,324th out of 12,945 compounds to which there is occupational exposure, with an 80% female prevalence due to its use in cosmetic products. Our findings illustrate an unusual polyreactivity of anti-PDC-E2 and support the idea of epitope mimicry in the genesis of this autoantibody and perhaps of PBC itself.

Autoantibodies↗

Staining of proteins on SDS polyacrylamide gels and on nitrocellulose membranes by Alta, a colour used as a cosmetic.

We describe here the use of Alta, a pre-existing scarlet-red stain of cosmetic use, for staining proteins on sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) polyacrylamide gels, as well as for a single step staining of gels and nitrocellulose membranes during Western blot analysis. This stain, which is composed of 0.8% Crocein scarlet (brilliant crocein) and 0.2% Rhodamine B, is inexpensive, easy to use and nearly as sensitive as Coomassie Brilliant Blue (CBB) R-250. The gels can be stained in 10% Alta (2 h) and can be destained effectively only with 7% acetic acid as opposed to the conventional destainer (methanol/acetic acid/water) required for CBB-stained gels. In an alternative procedure, the proteins can be stained on the gel while electrophoresis by simply using 5% Alta in the top tank buffer and the stain can be viewed under UV-transilluminator. This procedure can also be used for Western blot analysis, as a single step procedure for staining of proteins on the gel as well as on the nitrocellulose membrane, as the stain is retained on the membrane after protein transfer. Thus, this staining procedure allows monitoring of proteins after each step in the Western blot, thereby eliminating the need to run separate gels for staining and Western blot analysis, and also the need for Ponceau Red S staining of the nitrocellulose membrane during Western blot analysis.

Azo Compounds↗

A fatal case of post-operative pulmonary thromboembolism with cosmetic liposuction.

Pulmonary thromboembolism (PTE) has been regarded as rare in Japan. However, PTE has been increasingly recognised because either of increased incidence, diagnostic progress, or social recognition. Recently, 10 Japanese Medical Associations have submitted preventive guidelines for PTE in post-operative patients and the government decided to fund this, as results of the increase in cases and concern regarding medical negligence. A fatal case of PTE after liposuction is reported. A female patient was in the home toilet after two days of immobilization following day-surgery liposuction. Clinicians must be aware of appropriate methods for the prevention of post operative PTE with cosmetic surgery.

Adult↗

Rheological characterization of polysaccharide-surfactant matrices for cosmetic O/W emulsions.

Rheometrical techniques can be profitably used for polysaccharide matrices in order to evaluate their suitability for the preparation of stable cosmetic O/W emulsions. In particular, the rheological properties of aqueous scleroglucan systems were investigated under continuous and oscillatory shear conditions in a polymer concentration range (0.2-1.2% w/w) embracing the sol/gel transition. The effects due to the addition of two different surfactants (up to 10% w/w) were examined at constant polymer concentration (0.4% w/w). The selected additives are a nonionic polymeric siliconic surfactant (dimethicone copolyol) and a cationic surfactant (tetradecyltrimethylammonium bromide), respectively. Polysaccharide-surfactant interactions leading to complex formation were detected also through rheology. The combined action of both nonionic and cationic surfactants in the polymer solution was examined at two different surfactant concentration levels (5 and 10% w/w), demonstrating the beneficial effects produced on the mechanical properties of the polymer matrix by the coexistence of both surfactants. Such beneficial effects are confirmed by the stability and rheology shown by the emulsions prepared. In this way, the results point out the good agreement between the rheology of the continuous phase and the final characteristics of the emulsion obtained.

Adsorption↗

Application of Fenton oxidation to cosmetic wastewaters treatment.

The removal of organic matter (TOC and COD) from a cosmetic wastewater by Fenton oxidation treatment has been evaluated. The operating conditions (temperature as well as ferrous ion and hydrogen peroxide dosage) have been optimized. Working at an initial pH equal to 3.0, a Fe(2+) concentration of 200 mg/L and a H(2)O(2) concentration to COD initial weight ratio corresponding to the theoretical stoichiometric value (2.12), a TOC conversion higher than 45% at 25 degrees C and 60% at 50 degrees C was achieved. Application of the Fenton oxidation process allows to reach the COD regional limit for industrial wastewaters discharges to the municipal sewer system. A simple kinetic analysis based on TOC was carried out. A second-order equation describes well the overall kinetics of the process within a wide TOC conversion range covering up to the 80-90% of the maximum achievable conversion.

Cosmetics↗

Surgery improves vision and cosmetic appearance of an adult patient with fibrous dysplasia of the frontal bone.

A 31-year-old woman with fibrous dysplasia (FD) of the left forehead was reported. Visual acuity impairment and diplopia were slowly progressive for 6 months associated with marked protrusion of her left forehead. Removal of left forehead lesion including the orbital ridge and total decompression of the optic canal and superior orbital fissure improved these visual symptoms dramatically. Reconstructive cranioplasty using artificial bone made by hydroxyapatite (Apaceram) was very satisfactory in cosmetic appearance. Surgical indication and neuroradiological findings of cranial FD are discussed as well as a review of the literatures.

Adult↗

Determination of alpha-hydroxy acids in cosmetic products by capillary electrophoresis.

In this work, a simple and reliable method for the simultaneous analysis of alpha-hydroxy acids such as tartaric, glycolic and lactic acids in cosmetic products was developed using capillary electrophoresis with indirect UV detection at 254 nm. A buffer solution containing 10 mmoll(-1) potassium phthalate (pH 4.1) and 0.5 mmoll(-1) cetyltrimethylammonium bromide as electroosmotic flow modifier allowed baseline resolution of the analytes in approximately 3 min. A few validation parameters of the proposed method include: good linearity for all compounds in the range from 10 to 100 mgl(-1) with coefficients of correlation larger than 0.9999. The average recoveries of tartaric, glycolic and lactic acids in commercial samples were 99.12, 99.41 and 99.43%, respectively. The method presented acceptable precision with average relative standard deviation of 0.54% (assay of commercial samples), 0.44% (peak area) and 0.16% (migration time).

Cosmetics↗

Phototoxicity and DNA damage induced by the cosmetic ingredient chemical azulene in human Jurkat T-cells.

Previous study showed that the cosmetic ingredient chemical azulene and its derivative gauiazulene exhibited photomutagenicity four- to five-fold higher than spontaneous mutation in Salmonella typhimurium TA102. In this study, phototoxicity including photogenotoxicity of azulene in human Jurkat T-cells is reported. When the cell suspensions are irradiated by light (UVA plus visible light) in the presence of azulene, an azulene dose-dependent cellular DNA damage is observed. At the highest azulene concentration of 50 microM, the average DNA fragmentation is 33 +/- 10%, determined by single cell gel electrophoresis (Comet assay). Cell viability assay using fluorescein diacetate indicates that the cells could endure the damage and remain viable. Further study revealed that the combination of light and azulene can cause single-strand cleavage on pure PhiX174 plasmid DNA in solution. Studies using scavengers reveal that singlet oxygen and free radicals are involved in causing DNA cleavage. This suggests that the photomutagenicity of azulene in S. typhimurium TA102 could be due to DNA fragmentation caused by the concurrent exposure to azulene and light.

Azulenes↗

Testing strategies in mutagenicity and genetic toxicology: an appraisal of the guidelines of the European Scientific Committee for Cosmetics and Non-Food Products for the evaluation of hair dyes.

The European Scientific Committee on Cosmetics and Non-Food Products (SCCNFP) guideline for testing of hair dyes for genotoxic/mutagenic/carcinogenic potential has been reviewed. The battery of six in vitro tests recommended therein differs substantially from the batteries of two or three in vitro tests recommended in other guidelines. Our evaluation of the chemical types used in hair dyes and comparison with other guidelines for testing a wide range of chemical substances, lead to the conclusion that potential genotoxic activity may effectively be determined by the application of a limited number of well-validated test systems that are capable of detecting induced gene mutations and structural and numerical chromosomal changes. We conclude that highly effective screening for genotoxicity of hair dyes can be achieved by the use of three assays, namely the bacterial gene mutation assay, the mammalian cell gene mutation assay (mouse lymphoma tk assay preferred) and the in vitro micronucleus assay. These need to be combined with metabolic activation systems optimised for the individual chemical types. Recent published evidence [D. Kirkland, M. Aardema, L. Henderson, L. Müller, Evaluation of the ability of a battery of three in vitro genotoxicity tests to discriminate rodent carcinogens and non-carcinogens. I. Sensitivity, specificity and relative predictivity, Mutat. Res. 584 (2005) 1-256] suggests that our recommended three tests will detect all known genotoxic carcinogens, and that increasing the number of in vitro assays further would merely reduce specificity (increase false positives). Of course there may be occasions when standard tests need to be modified to take account of special situations such as a specific pathway of biotransformation, but this should be considered as part of routine testing. It is clear that individual dyes and any other novel ingredients should be tested in this three-test battery. However, new products are formed on the scalp by reaction between the chemicals present in hair-dye formulations. Ideally, these should also be tested for genotoxicity, but at present such experiences are very limited. There is also the possibility that one component could mask the genotoxicity of another (e.g. by being more toxic), and so it is not practical at this time to recommend routine testing of complete hair-dye formulations as well. The most sensible approach would be to establish whether any reaction products within the hair-dye formulation penetrate the skin under normal conditions of use and test only those that penetrate at toxicologically relevant levels in the three-test in vitro battery. Recently published data [D. Kirkland, M. Aardema, L. Henderson, L. Müller, Evaluation of the ability of a battery of three in vitro genotoxicity tests to discriminate rodent carcinogens and non-carcinogens. I. Sensitivity, specificity and relative predictivity, Mutat. Res. 584 (2005) 1-256] suggest the three-test battery will produce a significant number of false as well as real positives. Whilst we are aware of the desire to reduce animal experiments, determining the relevance of positive results in any of the three recommended in vitro assays will most likely have to be determined by use of in vivo assays. The bone marrow micronucleus test using routes of administration such as oral or intraperitoneal may be used where the objective is extended hazard identification. If negative results are obtained in this test, then a second in vivo test should be conducted. This could be an in vivo UDS in rat liver or a Comet assay in a relevant tissue. However, for hazard characterisation, tests using topical application with measurement of genotoxicity in the skin would be more appropriate. Such specific site-of-contact in vivo tests would minimise animal toxicity burden and invasiveness, and, especially for hair dyes, be more relevant to human routes of exposure, but there are not sufficient scientific data available to allow recommendations to be made. The generation of such data is encouraged.

Amines↗

[3D cellular models: a powerful access to cutaneous physiology and to innovative developments of cosmetic active compounds].

Two different anti-ageing cosmetic actives based respectively, on dermal compartment regeneration and on dermoepidermal reinforcement, have been developed using tissular engineering models. Conjointly use of different innovative three-dimensional models such as reconstructed dermis and skin built with human cells coming from variable aged donors allowed first, a better understanding of matrix modifications due to ageing and second, the screening of active ingredients highly targeted to reverse observed damages. The validity of such three-dimensional models has been then confirmed by in vivo studies on healthy volunteers.

Adult↗

Hyaluronic acid and its use as a "rejuvenation" agent in cosmetic dermatology.

Since 1996, hyaluronic acid (HA) has been launched onto the market in Europe. Since then, different companies proposed their HAs. Biomatrix (NJ, USA) proposes an animal-derived HA (from rooster comb). Q-Med AB (Uppsala, Sweden) and LEA-DERM (Paris, France) are the main companies to have a nonanimal HA. HA is produced by bacterial fermentation from a specific strain of streptococci. HA has no species specificity and theoretically has no risk of allergy. No skin testing is necessary before injecting because HA is a biodegradable agent. To be utilized as a filler agent for improving wrinkles, scars, or increasing volumes, HA must be stabilized to obtain a sufficient half-life. Process of stabilization varies, according to each manufacturer. This explains the differences in longevity and in viscosity of the different products. Several HAs are suitable to fine lines, to deep wrinkles/folds, or to increase volume. A new indication for "rejuvenation" is injection into the superficial dermis and epidermis. The HA (stabilized or not) is not used to fill in but rather to hydrate and finally to rejuvenate the skin. This procedure must be repeated at intervals of a few weeks or months. If HA is the safest filler agent in cosmetic indications today, some rare side effects may appear and must be known to inform patients. Most of these complications are not severe and will disappear when the product is degraded.

Biocompatible Materials↗

Polyacrylamide gel in cosmetic procedures: experience with Aquamid.

Polyacrylamides have been used in tissue augmentation since 1980. AQUAMID injections amounting to 40,000 have been done for facial and body corrections in cosmetic and reconstructive medicine and surgery. Possible neurotoxic and carcinologic effects of acrylamide and their stability are reported. The most important complications are infection, granuloma, and migration. All actual studies and results are reported. Main indications are lips, nasolabial fold, and malar area.

Acrylic Resins↗

Behavior of pharmaceuticals, cosmetics and hormones in a sewage treatment plant.

Two cosmetic ingredients (galaxolide, tonalide), eight pharmaceuticals (carbamazepine, diazepam, diclofenac, ibuprofen, naproxen, roxithromycin, sulfamethoxazole and iopromide) and three hormones (estrone, 17beta-estradiol and 17alpha-ethinylestradiol) have been surveyed along the different units of a municipal Sewage Treatment Plant (STP) in Galicia, NW Spain. Among all the substances considered, significant concentrations in the influent were only found for the two musks (galaxolide and tonalide), two anti-inflammatories (ibuprofen and naproxen), two natural estrogens (estrone, 17beta-estradiol), one antibiotic (sulfamethoxazole) and the X-ray contrast medium (iopromide), where the other compounds studied were below the limit of quantification. In the primary treatment, only the fragrances (30-50%) and 17beta-estradiol (20%) were partially removed. On the other hand, the aerobic treatment (activated sludges) caused an important reduction in all compounds detected, between 35% and 75%, with the exception of iopromide, which remained in the aqueous phase. The overall removal efficiencies within the STP ranged between 70-90% for the fragrances, 40-65% for the anti-inflammatories, around 65% for 17beta-estradiol and 60% for sulfamethoxazole. However, the concentration of estrone increased along the treatment due to the partial oxidation of 17beta-estradiol in the aeration tank.

Adsorption↗

Conjunctival foreign body from a cosmetic facial scrub.

PURPOSE/METHODS: Foreign body sensation in four patients was caused by particles from a cosmetic facial scrub that contained small plastic spheres designed to abrade the skin. The particles were lodged in the superior palpebral conjunctiva 2 to 3 mm from the eyelid margin. RESULTS/CONCLUSIONS: Removal of the particles eliminated the foreign body sensation and there were no lasting deleterious effects.

Adult↗