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New cosmetic agents for skin whitening from Angelica dahurica.

To develop a new whitening agent for cosmetics from natural products, Angelica dahurica was selected for its inhibitory effect on melanogenesis in B16 melanoma cells. From the mechanism study, it was clarified that the ethanolic extracts of this plant showed the suppression of tyrosinase synthesis but no inhibition of tyrosinase activity. In order to find the active constituents from this plant, the ethanol extracts were chromatographed repeatedly with silica gel. Two coumarin compounds were isolated from A. dahurica. Their structures were identified by physicochemical and spectral data such as UV, IR, NMR, and MS. It was shown that the active substance was isoimperatorin (10-[(3-methyl-2-butenyl)oxy]-7H-furo[3,2-g][1] benzopyran-7-one) and imperatorin (9-[(3-methyl-2-butenyl)oxy]-7H-furo[3,2-g][1] benzopyran-7-one). They significantly inhibited tyrosinase synthesis in B16 melanoma cells. To elucidate the action mechanism of the active compounds of A. dahurica, we investigated the changes in the mRNA level of tyrosinase using the RT-PCR technique. As a result, the mRNA level of tyrosinase was markedly reduced by active compounds of A. dahurica. From these results, we suggest that these extracts might be useful as a new whitening agent in cosmetics, but the in vitro findings must be verified in in vivo skin-lightening studies.

Angelica↗

Restoration and enhancement: is cosmetic dentistry ethical?

The ethical ground for restoration (returning a patient to healthy form and function) differs from enhancement (using medical means to improve appearance). Physicians and dentists who argue that enhancements improve self-esteem must reconcile this claim with the fact that they are not licensed to practice psychology. The extreme views are that doctors either should provide cosmetic services as requested by patients or they should not. The middle position is that doctors must retain their fiduciary position of trust based on professional judgment and advocating for patients' health interests. Patient health always outweighs patients' cosmetic desires.

Attitude of Health Personnel↗

Risk of allergy to food proteins in topical medicinal agents and cosmetics.

The risk of allergy to food proteins in cosmetics and topical medicinal agents is poorly evaluated. IgE dependent contact urticaria and contact dermatitis are observed. Eleven cases (7 infants and 4 women) are reported. Wheat, egg, oats, milk, peanut proteins are incriminated by prick-tests or atopy patch-tests. Cases are related to a previous food allergy and other ones may indicate primary sensitization to topical creams mainly used for skin care of atopic dermatitis. A consecutive exercise induced anaphylaxis to wheat and a long lasting sensitization to wheat have been observed. A clear and accurate identification of food allergens in cosmetics and topical agents is necessary. Given the hyper-permeability of infant skin, topical products containing food proteins of known allergenicity are contra-indicated for neonates, and for infants with atopic dermatitis, which may be associated with skin hyper-permeability.

Administration, Topical↗

Assay of 1,4-dioxane in commercial cosmetic products by HPLC.

The HPLC assay of 1,4-dioxane in a wide range of commercially available cosmetics containing polyethoxylated surfactants is described. After solid-phase extraction using Bakerbond CN- and Bakerbond C18-cartridges, samples were directly analysed on a LiChrospher CH-8 column with an acetonitrile water eluent and UV detection at 200 nm. Of the total cosmetic products investigated, 48% were found to contain 7.3-85.9 ppm of 1,4-dioxane.

Chromatography, High Pressure Liquid↗

Hazards of urocanic acid as a cosmetic ingredient.

Certain commercially available cosmetic products have been found to contain the ingredient urocanic acid. We have shown that the solar irradiation in vitro of one such lotion resulted in the formation of cis urocanic acid. The irradiated lotion, when applied topically to the skin of hairless mice, systemically suppressed the normal contact hypersensitivity reaction to 2,4-dinitrofluorobenzene by 68%. In addition, mice exposed to a minimally erythemal dose of ultraviolet B (280-320 nm) radiation, normally sub-immunosuppressive, showed a 56% suppression of the contact hypersensitivity reaction if they were irradiated through the topically applied cosmetic lotion.

Animals↗

[A hygienic study of new raw materials for cosmetic agents and household chemical preparations].

Studies are performed on the new Bulgarian raw materials "Aminookis" (AO) and "Dezodorirashch agent" (DA) the plants "Alen Mak"--Plovdiv and "Hyaluron"--Sofia. Chemical, toxicological and microbiological studies are carried out. Thin-layer chromatographic and spectrophotometric methods for determination of AO, hyaluronic acid and DA are developed and chemical studies on cosmetics, prepared with them, are carried out. During the repetition of a 21-day experiment on guinea pigs the threshold irritative concentrations--10% for AO and DA (as trade products) are determined. This shows that they are moderate contact irritants. The hyaluron has no irritative effect. By maximizing test with guinea pigs is established the absence of contact allergy for DA and AO. At index of sensibilization 10% the hyaluron falls in the group of weak allergens. The spectra of action are studied and the minimum suppressing concentrations of AO and DA are defined. It is established that the most resistant to effect with these cosmetics are the representatives of the families: Pseudomonas, Klebsiella, Escherichia, Salmonella. Recommendations are made to use "Aminookis" (AO) in shampoos to 8%, deodorizing agent in deodorants to 2% and "Hyaluron" in creams to 20% (as trade products).

Animals↗

[Investigation, identification and dosage of local anesthetics and antihistaminics in cosmetic products].

A rapid and accurate reversed-phase HPLC method for separation and simultaneous quantitation of some local anesthetics, antihistamines and preservatives in skin cosmetics is described. The investigated compounds (procaine, lidocaine, mepivacaine, bupivacaine, benzocaine, brompheniramine, benzoic acid, methyl, ethyl and propyl p-hydroxybenzoate, o-phenylphenol) are extracted by ultrasonic treatment in methanol from cosmetic form. Methanol-aqueous orthophosphoric acid (pH 2.8) containing 0.9% dibutylamine has been used as eluent. The influence of different percentages of methanol on chromatographic behaviour has been studied using both isocratic conditions and gradient elution program. The gradient program allows a rapid resolution and quantitation also for acidic preservatives.

Anesthetics, Local↗

[Determination of seven ultraviolet absorbent in cosmetics by high speed liquid chromatography].

A rapid method for the HPLC determination of ultraviolet absorbent (UV abs.) in cosmetics was investigated. This method is based on the technique of solvent extraction of the sample by HPLC with silica-ODS (Develosil ODS-5) as the stationary phase A, B, C, and D as the eluent and the ultraviolet spectrophometer (310, 284 nm) as the detector. The plots of the peak height vs amount of seven UV abs. were linear between 0-20 micrograms/ml. The recoveries of UV abs. to a model sample at the level of 0.1% were 93.2-100.0% by this method. This method is simple and rapid, therefor it is applicable for the determination of UV abs. in cosmetics in routine analysis.

Absorption↗

Pediatric cyanide intoxication and death from an acetonitrile-containing cosmetic.

Two cases of pediatric accidental ingestion of an acetonitrile-containing cosmetic are reported. One of the children, a 16-month-old boy, was found dead in bed the morning after ingesting the product. No therapy had been undertaken, as the product was mistakenly assumed to be an acetone-containing nail polish remover. The second child, a 2-year-old boy, experienced signs of severe cyanide poisoning, but survived with vigorous supportive care. Both children had blood cyanide levels in the potentially lethal range. The observed delayed onset of severe toxic reactions supports the proposed mechanism of acetonitrile conversion to inorganic cyanide via hepatic microsomal enzymes. Physicians and poison centers should be alerted to the existence of this highly toxic product, sold for removal of sculptured nails and likely to be confused with the less toxic acetone-containing nail polish removers. We urge regulatory agencies to reconsider the wisdom of marketing a cosmetic that poses such an extreme health hazard.

Acetonitriles↗

[Microbiological analysis of some cosmetics on the market].

In this study we have examined contamination of cosmetics by microorganisms. 14 samples from 64 cosmetics were found bacteria more than normally. 9 of 38 shampoo, 2 of 15 hand cream, 1 of 5 hair cream and 2 of 14 hair tonic have been isolated microorganisms more than 10(3) bacteria. Of 14 isolates were 3 Pseudomonas aeruginosa, 2 Escherichia coli, 2 Staphylococcus aureus, 5 Bacillus subtilis and 2 Enterobacter. In addition, antibiotic susceptibility of bacteria were presented in Table 2.

Anti-Bacterial Agents↗

Cosmetics, Barnum, and science.

The marketing and use of cosmetics can involve consumers, government regulators, and dermatologists. As practitioners, we should be aware of these interactions and of the role cosmetics play in the lives of our patients, in the marketplace, and in society as a whole.

Cosmetics↗

Granulomatous ochronosis -- a cosmetic-induced skin disorder in Blacks.

More skin eruptions than previously are appearing in Blacks after the application of a variety of topical cosmetics. Clinical and histological descriptions of these conditions are reviewed and classified. Four cases of sarcoid-like foreign-body granulomas are reported. The stricter control of cosmetics is recommended.

Adolescent↗

[Various aspects of cosmetic allergy in Strasbourg].

Intending to determine the substances responsible in Strasbourg for allergies to cosmetics, we checked through all our cases from 1973 to 1980. Two main causes of the allergies were determined: Cosmetic cream and skin lotion (31.2% of cases) as well as nail enamel (20.8%). The importance of allergy to these enamels is notable compared with the extremely low figures found in the other countries (USA 1%, Sweden 6%).

Cosmetics↗

Eye-cosmetic-induced conjunctival pigmentation.

Light and electron microscopic study of conjunctival pigmentation in a 27-year-old woman who used eyelid cosmetics is presented. The deposited material consists of ferritin particles and probably iron oxide and carbon. A review of the literature on conjunctival pigmentation secondary to eyelid cosmetics is presented.

Adult↗

An HPLC-UV method for the direct evaluation of N-nitrosodiethanolamine in some cosmetic products and raw materials.

An HPLC-UV method for evaluating the possible contamination of cosmetic products and raw materials by N-nitrosodiethanolamine (NDELA) is described. The usual extraction process is eliminated and the risk introduced by various external factors is minimized. It is clearly shown that NDELA forms readily under certain conditions and that nitrite scavengers have an inhibitory effect on the formation of nitrosamines. Recommendations are made for improving the quality of cosmetic raw materials by testing them for nitrite and NDELA before use.

Carcinogens↗

The cosmetic ingredient review: a status report.

The cosmetic industry, with the advice of individuals familiar with food and drug safety assessment, set up a Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel of experts and an attendant staff in the fall of 1976, which began to function in July 1977. Its structure and role were carefully developed by a steering committee to assure the independence and credibility of the expert panel's deliberations and decisions and the ultimate publication of a final report on each of many ingredients. That report must conclude 1) that there is reasonable certainty that the ingredient is safe under conditions of use, 2) that it is unsafe, or 3) that the evidence is inadequate to make such a judgment. There is considerable variability in the adequacy of the safety assessments or the assessments of safety in the literature and unpublished reports on ingredients that have been reviewed to date.

Consultants↗

[Formaldehyde determination using the colorimetric method with acetylacetone. II. Formaldehyde determination in cosmetic emulsions and certain household products].

Total formaldehyde content was determined by the colorimetric method with acetylacetone in cosmetic emulsions and household products. The commercial products not containing formaldehyde were fortified with 150 micrograms of the investigated compound. Recovery in this method was 93.3-102.6%. The method was found useful in routine determinations of formaldehyde in cosmetics and household products and can be used by the State Sanitary Inspections.

Chromatography, High Pressure Liquid↗