PERFUMERY and essential oils.
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Oils, Volatile↗
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Sesquiterpene lactone dermatitis. Cross-sensitivity in costus-sensitized patients.
Thirteen costus-sensitive patients were patch tested with 38 sesquiterpene lactones of five different classes over a two-year period. Cross-reacting agents fell into two chemical categories: (1) those that resembled the primary sensitizer, and (2) those belonging to different skeletal classes. An exocyclic methylene group conjugated to a gamma-lactone was present in both chemicals that cross-reacted and those that did not. The difference between these two groups is that cross-reacting chemicals are not highly substituted, tending to be lipophilic, while those giving negative responses all are highly substituted at the C-8/C-6 position. This functional group may hinder binding of exocyclic methylene with skin protein or the actual antigenic site with an immune receptor cell.
Cross Reactions↗
Photoallergic contact dermatitis to musk ambrette. Histopathologic features of photobiologic reactions observed in a persistent light reactor.
Studies concerning a patient with contact photosensitivity to musk ambrette, a commonly used fragrance, are reported. The patient had a persistent light reaction. The patient's history, clinical appearance, and phototest and photopatch test results are described. The observed patterns of these were identical to those previously noted in patients who had persistent light reactions after exposure to other photosensitizers such as the halogenated salicylanilides. The histopathologic findings in the phototest and photopatch test sites were those of an acute spongiotic dermatitis. No abnormal change was seen with ultraviolet A radiation exposure alone.
Aged↗
Photoallergic contact dermatitis. Results of photopatch testing in New York, 1985 to 1990.
BACKGROUND: Over a 6-year period, 187 patients with a history of photosensitivity were photopatch tested using standard techniques. Seventy-six patients were male and 111 were female. Most patients were white (151 patients). Two thirds of the patients were between the ages of 31 and 60 years. OBSERVATION: Testing revealed a total of 63 positive reactions: 14 plain contact, 41 photocontact, and eight combined contact and photocontact in 37 (20%) patients. Careful history taking resulted in a diagnosis of clinically relevant photoallergic contact dermatitis in 54% of these 37 patients or 11% (20) of the total tested. Ten of the relevant responses were due to fragrance ingredients (musk ambrette and 6-methylcoumarin); 18 were due to sunscreen agents (nine to p-aminobenzoic acid and esters, nine to oxybenzone). The fragrance reactions occurred in the early years of the study (1985, 1986, and 1987) while the sunscreen agents accounted for all but two of the 14 positive reactions in the last 3 years of the study (1988, 1989, and 1990). CONCLUSION: These data suggest that the incidence of photoallergy due to fragrances is declining, while reactions to sunscreen agents, in particular oxybenzone, are increasing. This trend may reflect an altered use pattern by the general population for products containing these chemicals.
Adolescent↗
Allergic contact dermatitis due to alpha-keri.
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Dermatitis, Allergic Contact↗
Photosensitivity from men's colognes.
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Adult↗
A review of the volatile metabolites of fungi found on wood substrates.
The holdings of eight collections of fungi have been examined for organisms isolated from wood and/or trees. Further selection of these fungi has been made according to their reported ability to produce volatile, biologically active metabolites. It is emphasized that the isolates in the collections do not necessarily produce such metabolites. The list of fungi fulfilling these conditions is slightly augmented by reports we have found in the literature, where the fungi concerned have not yet been deposited. The biochemistry of these compounds is considered with particular emphasis on their biosynthesis including that by Homo sapiens. The physiological and toxicological activity of these metabolites is reviewed especially with reference to their potential role in the complex symbioses existent in, for example, a tree. The review concludes with a discussion of areas of botany deserving increased attention in the hope that this will stimulate further work. The statements in the review are based on 173 references.
Acetylene↗
Investigations of animal blood samples after fragrance drug inhalation by gas chromatography/mass spectrometry with chemical ionization and selected ion monitoring.
The fragrance compounds linalool (1) and linalyl acetate (2) could be detected, identified and quantified (1: 7-9 ng ml-1; and 2: 1-2 ng ml-1 and 4-5 ng ml-1 as free linalool) in blood samples after inhalation in animal experiments (mice) by gas chromatography/mass spectrometry (GC/MS) with chemical ionization (CI) (ammonia); selected ion monitoring (SIM) mode (1: m/z 81, 137 and 154; 2: 47, 57 and 137) and GC/flame ionization detection (FID). The inhalation of these monoterpenes in concentrations of 5 mg l-1 air leads to a significant reduction of the motility of the test animals down to 30-40% with respect to the control group.
Acyclic Monoterpenes↗
The search for new fragrance ingredients for functional perfumery.
Functional perfumery is an integral part of the fragrance business. It demands that the ingredients chosen for compounding withstand the aggressive nature of some of the bases used for soaps, detergents, softeners, bleach, and personal-care products. The synthetic efforts in this area reported in this short personal account, presented in a talk at the RSC/SCI conference Flavours & Fragrances 2004 (Manchester), have resulted in the discovery of the two new proprietary molecules Fleuranil (5/6) and Khusinil (7), which fulfill the criteria of functional perfumery. The structure-odor relationships of several analogs of Fleuranil and Khusinil prepared in the course of these investigations are also presented.
Beauty Culture↗
Combinatorial synthesis by nature: volatile organic sulfur-containing constituents of Ruta chalepensis L.
Ongoing interest in discovering new natural fragrance and flavor ingredients prompted us to examine a solvent extract of sulfurous-sweaty smelling Ruta chalepensis L. (Rutaceae) plant material more closely. Twenty-one sulfur-containing constituents of similar structures were identified by GC/MS techniques. Amongst them, 14 have never been described to occur in nature. The compounds 1-18 belong to a family of natural flavor and fragrance molecules having a 1,3-positioned O,S moiety in common. The identities of the natural constituents were confirmed by comparison with synthetic reference samples, and the organoleptic properties of the latter were studied. The relative and absolute configurations of the four stereoisomers of 4-methyl-3-sulfanylhexan-1-ol (5) were established by stereoselective synthesis. The natural isomers consisted of a 65 : 35 mixture of (3R,4S)-5 and (3S,4S)-5.
Gas Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry↗
Synthesis of enantiopure phthalides including 3-butylphthalide, a fragrance component of celery oil, and determination of their absolute configurations.
Enantiopure phthalides 2 and 5-8 were synthesized via enantioresolution of the corresponding alcohols with a chiral auxiliary of camphorsultam dichlorophthalic acid, (1S,2R,4R)-(-)-CSDP acid 3, followed by solvolysis with KOH in MeOH and the catalytic oxidation of chiral glycols with iridium complex 28. The absolute configurations of phthalides 2 and 5-8 were determined by applying the (1)H-NMR anisotropy method of MalphaNP acid (4), 2-methoxy-2-(1-naphthyl)propionic acid, to the chiral synthetic precursory alcohols. In the case of 3-phenylphthalide (R)-(-)-7, the absolute configuration determined by the (1)H-NMR anisotropy method using MalphaNP acid 4 agreed with that by the X-ray crystallographic method. By applying these methods, 3-butylphthalide (S)-(-)-2, a fragrance component of essential oil of celery, has been synthesized in an enantiopure form, and its absolute configuration was unambiguously determined.
Alcohols↗
Cyclodextrins: a new group of industrial basic materials.
Adequate toxicological studies, discovery of numerous potential fields of utilization and last but not least, the production of cyclodextrins on industrial scale with high homogeneity and low price led to their recognition as a new group of industrial basic materials. Until now cyclodextrins were considered merely as agents for molecular encapsulation, however intensive research of the past few years revealed quite new and unexpected aspects: cyclodextrins, their derivatives and polymers can be applied--not exclusively due to their complexing ability--in foods, cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, chromatography, pesticide formulations, in photochemistry, etc.
Catalysis↗
Headspace solid-phase microextraction for characterization of fragrances of lemon verbena (Aloysia triphylla) by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry.
Natural fragrances from lemon verbena (Aloysia triphylla) were studied by headspace solid phase microextraction (HS-SPME) techniques followed by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS), with six different fibre coatings being tested to evaluate the extraction efficiencies of several selected compounds. A total of 14 compounds were identified in the fragrances of lemon verbena. Geranial and neral were detected as major components and alpha-pinene, beta-pinene, beta-caryophyllene, and curcumene as minor components. Enantiomeric analysis of chiral compounds from lemon verbena was carried out on a chiral column. alpha-Pinene, limonene, and camphor in the fragrances emitted from lemon verbena were found in the (+), (-), and (-) forms, respectively.
Bicyclic Monoterpenes↗
[Essential oils and fragrances considered from a cultural-historical viewpoint].
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History, Ancient↗
Nitromusk compounds in women with gynecological and endocrine dysfunction.
Musk xylene (MX), musk ketone (MK), musk ambrette, musk moskene, and musk tibetene are synthetic fragrances. Between 1994 and 1996 these five nitromusk compounds (NMCs) were tested in the blood of 152 women who consulted the Endocrinological Department of the University Hospital of Obstetrics and Gynecology, Heidelberg, Germany, because of gynecological problems. The testing was conducted by gas chromotography with mass-specific detector and mass spectrometry in a retrospective cross-sectional study. MX was detected in 95% and MK in 85% of the blood samples (>20 ng per liter whole blood). The median concentration of MX was 65.5 ng/L and the maximum level of MX was 1183 ng/L; the corresponding values for MK were respectively 55.5 and 518 ng/L. The other three NMCs were found in only a few patients or not at all. Significant associations between MX and MK concentrations were found in blood and different clinical parameters of the endocrine system. MX and MK may act centrally as a disrupter of the (supra-) hypothalamic-ovarian axis, which may result in a mild ovarian insufficiency. On the basis of our data, a reproductive toxicity and an endocrine effect of NMCs in women cannot be ruled out. Further experimental and clinical studies should be conducted.
Adult↗
Psychological effects of musky compounds: comparison of androstadienone with androstenol and muscone.
Previously, we have shown that delta4,16-androstadien-3-one modulates psychological state, reducing negative mood and increasing positive mood (Jacob and McClintock, 2000; Jacob et al., 2001a). In order to determine whether similar musky compounds also produce these effects, we compared the effects of androstadienone to those of androstenol and muscone, measuring the psychological states of 37 participants. Androstenol and muscone were chosen because they too have a musky odor at high concentrations, while androstenol is a steroid like androstadienone and muscone is not. In a controlled laboratory setting, we conducted a double-blind, within-subject, repeated-measures experiment counterbalanced for order of presentation. Under each participant's nose, a nanomolar amount of each compound was presented, masked by clove oil to minimize perceptible olfactory differences. Participants completed a baseline psychological battery and twice again at 25-min intervals after exposure. Androstadienone's effects on psychological state were unique in comparison with those of androstenol and with muscone. Exposure through passive inhalation, rather than dermal contact, was sufficient for these effects. Although this is additional evidence that androstadienone may be a pheromone, it is yet to be determined whether humans exude concentrations into the air adequate for social communication or process this chemical information within natural social contexts.
Administration, Inhalation↗
Criteria for development of a database for safety evaluation of fragrance ingredients.
Over 2000 different ingredients are used in the manufacture of fragrances. The majority of these ingredients have been used for many decades. Despite this long history of use, all of these ingredients need continued monitoring to ensure that each ingredient meets acceptable safety standards. As with other large databases of existing chemicals, fulfilling this need requires an organized approach to identify the most important potential hazards. One such approach, specifically considering the dermal route of exposure as the most relevant one for fragrance ingredients, has been developed. This approach provides a rational selection of materials for review and gives guidance for determining the test data that would normally be considered necessary for the elevation of safety under intended conditions of use. As a first step, the process takes into account the following criteria: quantity of use, consumer exposure, and chemical structure. These are then used for the orderly selection of materials for review with higher quantity, higher exposure, and the presence of defined structural alerts all contributing to a higher priority for review. These structural alerts along with certain exposure and volume limits are then used to develop guidelines for determining the quality and quantity of data considered necessary to support an adequate safety evaluation of the chosen materials, taking into account existing data on the substance itself as well as on closely related analogs. This approach can be considered an alternative to testing; therefore, it is designed to be conservative but not so much so as to require excessive effort when not justified.
Administration, Cutaneous↗
The time-dose-response relationship for elicitation of contact dermatitis in isoeugenol allergic individuals.
The elicitation response in allergic contact dermatitis is dose dependent, but the time-concentration relationship for elicitation has not previously been described. In this study 27 isoeugenol-sensitive patients participated in serial dilution patch tests with isoeugenol and a double-blinded Repeated Open Application Test (ROAT) using two concentrations of isoeugenol, 0.2 and 0.05%. Seven controls without isoeugenol allergy were also included. The participants applied 3.72 +/- 1.57 (mean +/- SD) mg/cm(2) of coded isoeugenol solutions twice a day to a 3 x 3 cm(2) area on the volar aspect of the right and left arm, respectively. For each test site the applications continued until a reaction appeared or for a maximum of 28 days. The minimal criteria for a positive reaction regarded as allergic contact dermatitis was persistent erythema at the ROAT test site. All controls were negative and 16/24 (66.7%) of the included isoeugenol-sensitive subjects showed a positive ROAT to the 0.2% solution within the study period (Fisher's test, p = 0.0024). Ten of the positive patients also reacted to the 0.05% solution. The median number of days until a positive reaction to the 0.2% solution was 7 days and was 15 days for the 0.05% solution. There was a highly significant correlation between the patients' patch test threshold and the number of days until a positive ROAT. In conclusion, the time until an isoeugenol allergic individual reacts in a ROAT depends on the individual sensitivity as well as the exposure concentrations; for low concentrations of the allergen or low degree of sensitivity, the allergic contact dermatitis may develop after several weeks of exposure. Therefore, a negative ROAT after 7 days may be a false negative.
Administration, Topical↗