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High-performance liquid chromatographic determination of free formaldehyde in cosmetics.

An improved, sensitive method for the determination of formaldehyde in cosmetics and other commercial products is reported. The procedure is based on dilution of the sample with tetrahydrofuran-water (9:1), followed by precolumn derivatization with 2,4-dinitrophenylhydrazine and direct reversed-phase high-performance liquid chromatography. The formaldehyde derivative is stabilized in the reaction medium by addition of phosphate buffer and neutralization and detected in less than 10 min by the standard additions methods. The method also appears to be suitable for the direct evaluation of the formaldehyde donors used in cosmetics as preservatives.

Chromatography, High Pressure Liquid↗

Identification of cosmetic dyes by ion-pair reversed-phase high-performance liquid chromatography.

A method based on ion-pair reversed-phase high-performance liquid chromatography with detection at four wavelengths between 400 and 600 nm is reported for the separation and identification of the most common synthetic colour additives in cosmetic products. All the dyes generally employed in the U.S.A. and almost all those in current use in cosmetics in the European Community have been taken into account. The chromatography was performed on a C8 bonded silica packed column, with a 60-min gradient changing from 10 to 95% acetonitrile in water containing 10(-2) M sodium perchlorate (pH 3.0) as mobile phase (flow-rate 2.5 ml/min). Detection limits are in the range 20-100 ng for all dyes investigated. The method has been applied to the analysis of commercial lipsticks.

Chromatography, High Pressure Liquid↗

Comparing micellar electrokinetic chromatography and microemulsion electrokinetic chromatography for the analysis of preservatives in pharmaceutical and cosmetic products.

In this study, separation and determination of nine preservatives ranging from hydrophilic to hydrophobic properties, which are commonly used as additives in various pharmaceutical and cosmetic products, by micellar electrokinetic chromatograpy (MEKC) and microemulsion electrokinetic chromatography (MEEKC) were compared. The effect of temperature, buffer pH, and concentration of surfactant on separation were examined. In MEKC, the separation resolution of preservatives improved markedly by changing the sodium dodecyl sulfate concentration. Temperature and pH of running buffers were used mainly to shorten the magnitude of separation time. However, in order to detect all preservatives in a single run in a MEEKC system, a microemulsion of higher pH was needed. The separation resolution was improved dramatically by changing temperature, and a higher concentration of SDS was necessary for maintaining a stable microemulsion solution, therefore the separation of the nine preservatives in MEEKC took longer than in MEKC. An optimum MEKC method for separation of the nine preservatives was obtained within 9.0 min with a running buffer of pH 9.0 containing 20 mM SDS at 25 degrees C. A separation with baseline resolution was also obtained within 16 min using a microemulsion of pH 9.5 which composed of SDS, 1-butanol, and octane, and a shorter capillary column at 34 degrees C. Finally, the developed MEKC and MEEKC methods determined successfully preservatives in various cosmetic and pharmaceutical products.

Buffers↗

Determination of some insect repellents in cosmetic products by high-performance thin-layer chromatography.

A simple and reliable thin-layer chromatographic method for the determination of N,N-diethyl-m-toluamide (DEET) and dimethyl phthalate (DMP) in raw material and cosmetic products was developed and validated. A benzene-diethyl ether-cyclohexane (5:3:2, v/v/v) solvent system was used for quantitative evaluation of chromatograms. The chromatographic zones corresponding to the spots of DEET and DMP on the silica gel plates were scanned in the reflectance/absorbance mode at 230 nm. The method was found to be reproducible and convenient for the quantitative analysis of DEET and DMF in raw material and cosmetic products.

Chromatography, Thin Layer↗

Cosmetics and ancillary preparations for the care of nails. Composition, chemistry, and adverse reactions.

Cosmetics and ancillary preparations for care of the nails have long been used in abundance by women and to a much lesser extent by men. In this article, types of such cosmetics and ancillary preparations, their composition, and something of the chemistry of their ingredients are given. Several examples of adverse reactions to them are described and illustrated. The incidence of adverse reactions to them is small as a percentage, but significant as an absolute number because the number of them used is huge. When adverse reactions occur they may be severe.

Chemical Phenomena↗

Prospective study of cosmetic reactions: 1977-1980. North American Contact Dermatitis Group.

This prospective study (1977-1980) of cosmetic adverse reactions by eleven dermatologists identified 487 cases of cosmetic-induced dermatitis. Approximately half of the cases were covert in nature. Eight percent were due to allergic contact dermatitis; the face, eye, and upper arm were the most involved sites. Skin care products, hair preparations (including colors), and facial makeup products were the most commonly involved product categories. Fragrances, preservatives, lanolin and lanolin derivatives, p-phenylenediamine, and propylene glycol were most commonly identified causative agents. The data may not be representative of the country at large because of the special interests of the dermatologists involved.

Adolescent↗

Evaluation, using Salmonella typhimurium, of the mutagenicity of seven chemicals found in cosmetics.

Six chemicals used as ingredients in cosmetics were evaluated for mutagenic activity in Salmonella typhimurium. Two of these ingredients, trans-4-phenyl-3-butene-2-one and 2,2',4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone, were mutagenic in the presence of rat liver S-9 towards strains TA100 and TA1537 respectively. An impurity found in some cosmetic products, N-nitrosodiethanolamine, was mutagenic to S. typhimurium strains TA1535 and TA100 in the presence of hamster-liver S-9 but not rat-liver S-9.

Animals↗

Qualitative detection of N-nitrosodiethanolamine in cosmetic products.

A relatively quick and simple procedure is described for the detection of N-nitrosodiethanolamine in various cosmetic products. The procedure is based on the irreversible formation of p-nitroso-N,N-dimethylaniline which has a bright yellow colour in basic solution. The compound is formed following extraction of the cosmetic, photolysis of the aqueous extract and the addition of N,N-dimethylaniline to photolysed extract.

Cosmetics↗

Determination of urea, allantoin and lysine pyroglutamate in cosmetic samples by hydrophilic interaction chromatography.

A new HPLC method using a Polyhydroxyethyl A column involving hydrophilic interaction chromatography (HILIC) is described for the simultaneous determination of urea, allantoin and lysine pyroglutamate in a cosmetic cream. Validation of the method was accomplished with respect to linearity, repeatability and limits of detection/quantification. Compound recoveries approach 100% with acceptable RSD values. The method is very simple since no derivatisation is necessary. Furthermore, it allows the rapid and direct chromatographic analysis of urea and hence could provide an alternative to other methods used to determine this compound in biological or cosmetic samples.

Allantoin↗

Cosmetic applications for solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN).

Solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN) are novel delivery systems for pharmaceutical and cosmetic active ingredients. This paper highlights advantages of SLN for cosmetic applications. The dependence of the occlusive effect on the particle size of SLN due to film formation is presented by in vitro data. An in vivo study showed that addition of 4% SLN to a conventional o/w cream lead to an increase of skin hydration of 31% after 4 weeks. The application of SLN as physical sunscreens and as active carriers for molecular sunscreens has also been investigated. The amount of molecular sunscreen could be decreased by 50% while maintaining the protection level compared to a conventional emulsion.

Administration, Topical↗

Comparison of high-performance liquid chromatography and capillary zone electrophoresis for the determination of parabens in a cosmetic product.

A high-performance liquid chromatographic method (HPLC) and a capillary zone electrophoresis method (CZE) have been developed for the analysis of methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben and butylparaben in a commercial cosmetic product. A very simple extraction procedure with acidified diethylether was developed. The HPLC method involved a C18 reversed-phase column and a gradient of methanol and water-acetic acid (1%). Electrophoretic separation was performed on a fused-silica capillary with a mixed 15 mM tetraborate buffer (pH 9.2) and methanol (85:15, v/v). The calibration curves were linear from 1 to 40 microg/ml in HPLC and from 5 to 200 microg/ml in CZE. The limit of detection in CZE (0.21 microg/ml) was higher than in HPLC (0.05 microg/ml). Repeatability and intermediate precision were satisfactory for both methods (RSD values < 3.23% in HPLC and < 3.26%, in CZE). Only HPLC allowed the separation of butylparaben isomeric forms when CZE analysis was less time and reagents consuming. These results suggest that HPLC and CZE coupled with a simple extraction process are both suitable for parabens determination in cosmetic products.

Buffers↗

Rapid quantification of iodopropynyl butylcarbamate as the preservative in cosmetic formulations using high-performance liquid chromatography-electrospray mass spectrometry.

A simple, rapid and reproducible method for identification and quantification of iodopropynyl butylcarbamate (IPBC) in different cosmetic formulations is presented. The determination was carried out using a high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) procedure on a reversed phase column coupled to a single quadrupole mass spectrometer (MS) via an electrospray ionization (ESI) interface. Detection was performed in the positive selected ion-monitoring mode. In methanol/water extracts from different cosmetic formulations a detection limit between 50 and 100 ng/g could be achieved. A routine analytical procedure could be set up with good quantification reliability (relative standard deviation between 0.9 and 2.9%).

Anti-Infective Agents↗

Determination of undecylenic and sorbic acids in cosmetic preparations by high performance liquid chromatography with electrochemical detection.

A highly sensitive and selective method for the determination of sorbic (SA) and undecylenic acid (UA) in cosmetic formulations by a high performance liquid chromatography method with electrochemical detection (ECD) is described. The pre-column derivatizations of SA and UA and the internal standard (cyclohexanoic acid (cHA)) were carried out using 1-(2,5-dihydroxyphenyl)-2-bromoethanone (2,5-DBE) as an electroactive labeling reagent previously synthesized in our lab. The resulting electroactive esters were separated by isocratic elution of a 5 micrometer Hypersil CN column with acetonitrile-acetate buffer eluent. The compounds were detected by a porous graphite electrode set at an oxidation potential of +0.45 V. The analytical method developed in this study is suitable for quality control assays of complex cosmetic formulations containing sorbic and/or UA.

Chromatography, High Pressure Liquid↗

Cosmetics and skin care products. A historical perspective.

The history of cosmetics and skin care products parallels many important technologic developments in chemistry, materials, and packaging innovations. Much is revealed about ancient civilizations by the cosmetics that are uncovered in archaeologic excavations. Much can also be said about modern-day health and adornment practices based on products in the current marketplace.

Cosmetics↗

Eye cosmetics.

There are many eye cosmetics available to enhance the beauty or improve the appearance of the face. To prevent infection, most eye cosmetics contain preservatives. Fragrance is usually absent to keep the products as safe as possible. Hypoallergenic products contain fewer ingredients and may be more appropriate for patients with sensitive skin.

Cosmetics↗

Lip cosmetics.

Throughout the centuries, the beauty of lips has been extolled by poets, and painters; and people in many different cultures decorate their lips. Modern cosmetics are designed not only to beautify the lips but also to moisturize and protect them from environmental hazards. Familiarity with the ingredients used in lip cosmetics is essential to recognizing and diagnosing the adverse reactions that are associated with these products.

Allergens↗

Cosmetics, skin care, and appearance in teenagers.

Adolescence is a period of tremendous transformation in the appearance of the body and the evolution of the mind that will eventually lead to adulthood. "Yesterday's child" will need to assume and exert control over these changes. Therefore his/her appearance becomes a means of communication, a language to express his/her pursuit of self-identity. The cosmetic industry has identified teenagers as "powerful" consumers, and offers them various toiletry and skin care products that should fulfill their needs, such as cleansing, hydrating, and photoprotective agents. Certain decorative cosmetics, especially for hair and nails, are attractive to them also. For some teenagers, the expression of individualism is through body art such as tattooing and body piercing. Areas of concern are the lack of motivation for sun protection and the risky behavior associated with body piercing and tattooing.

Adolescent↗