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PubMed2002

Nail cosmetics: allergies and irritations.

Recent precise figures are not available for the number of adverse reactions related to the use of nail care products. Reactions to nail cosmetic procedures may be divided into reactions at the site of application to the nail itself and ectopic reactions, when the hand transfers a small amount of nail cosmetic to other areas of the skin. Fingernail coatings encompass two types: coatings that harden upon evaporation (nail enamel, base coat, top coat); and coatings that polymerize (sculptured nails, light-curing gels, preformed artificial nails, nail mending and nail wrapping). The test battery enables us to distinguish allergic reactions from irritant reactions. Interestingly, some reactions, such as distant allergic contact dermatitis, are more frequent with nail enamel than with coatings that polymerize. On the other hand, the latter are greater offenders in the nail area. Nail hardeners may just be modified nail enamels containing nylon fibers, acrylate resin and hydrolyzed proteins. Others may contain up to 5% formaldehyde tissue fixative (which can have adverse effects on the nail), but are designed in the US to be applied only to the free edge of the nail while the skin is shielded. Caution is necessary in interpreting formaldehyde patch testing reactions.

Acrylates↗
PubMed2002

Fast capillary electrochromatographic analysis of parabens and 4-hydroxybenzoic acid in drugs and cosmetics.

A fast capillary electrochromatographic method was developed for the analysis of paraben preservatives in drugs and cosmetics in the presence of their main metabolite and/or impurity, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid. The separation was optimized in a 75 num ID capillary, fully packed with 5 num C18 stationary phase, studying the effects of mobile phase pH and composition (buffer type and organic solvent content). The mobile phase 5 mM ammonium formate, pH 3.0, containing 65% acetonitrile allowed us to obtain the baseline separation of methyl-, ethyl-, propyl-, butyl-, and benzylparabens from a mixture in less than 2.5 min with repeatability and linearity using the short-end injection method (8 cm separation capillary effective length). Under the optimum experimental conditions, the method provided high separation efficiency for parabens, in the range of 129 312-140 325 number of theoretical plates per meter, and analyte quantitation limits (LOQs) in the range of 1.25-2.50 nug/mL. The method was successfully applied to the quantitative analysis of paraben preservatives in pharmaceutical and cosmetic industrial samples with direct injection or after reduced sample pretreatment.

Chromatography, High Pressure Liquid↗
PubMed1991

Silicon membrane interface for the direct analysis of Kathon CG in aqueous solutions and cosmetic emulsions.

An easy determination of Kathon CG, an antimicrobial agent widely used in cosmetic and toiletry products, has been achieved by means of silicone membrane interfaced mass spectrometry. Low levels of the above preservative (up to p.p.b.) could be easily detected in both aqueous solutions and cosmetic emulsions. Valuable information has been obtained on the stabilization and decomposition processes to which the organic components of Kathon CG are subject. The role of magnesium ions, which are present as a stabilizing agent in Kathon CG formulation, in these processes has been investigated, leading to the identification of some degradation products.

Cosmetics↗
PubMed2004

Bioprocesses for the manufacture of ingredients for foods and cosmetics.

This chapter describes the rapid growth in the use of biotransformation processes to manufacture food and cosmetic ingredients. Newly introduced processes include those to produce both ingredients not previously available, and also improved processes to make ingredients previously produced by chemical synthesis, fermentation or extraction from natural sources. What can we learn from what has already been achieved that will help us in the future? This question is very important because the key challenge is not just to do innovative research, but also to develop such research into cost-effective industrial scale processes that deliver products of proven utility to the end customer, and at prices that give good returns on R&D investments to the manufacturer. Therefore biotransformation R&D information is presented in the real-life context of manufacturing, IP, regulatory and safety, product costs and quality etc. Examples of new ingredients and processes are given that illustrate the great variety of ingredients produced biochemically, and the range of raw materials and enzyme reactions used to make them. These examples also illustrate how the technical advances made in developing these processes and products are inseparable from economic factors, especially production costs and functional benefits that create the demand and set the performance, cost, and quality standards for the product. Many of the key factors necessary for the translation of research into commercial successes are identified and described, as well as some special features that have helped individual processes to become successful. This review also proves that a key factor for success is management that can successfully integrate and implement the large number of different technical and commercial factors involved. The wide range of examples provided also prove that very many of the technical advances made in the field of applied biocatalysis have actually been made while developing processes for food and cosmetic ingredients; rather than for pharmaceuticals as is very often assumed. Consequently it is hoped that this review will help future research efforts, and especially aid the development of research into commercial success in this field.

Biological Products↗
PubMed1984

Contamination of toiletries and cosmetic products with volatile and nonvolatile N-nitroso carcinogens.

Commercially available cosmetics and toiletries were analyzed for contamination with volatile and nonvolatile N-nitrosamines. Of a total of 145 samples analyzed 50 were found to contain N-nitrosodimethylamine (max. value found 24 micrograms/kg), 26 samples were contaminated with N-nitrosomorpholine (max. value found 640 micrograms/kg), and 25 samples contained N-nitrosodiethanolamine, a non-volatile carcinogen (max. value found 1400 micrograms/kg). These results are discussed and compared with other published data on NDE1A in cosmetics, with reference to potential human exposure and to possible preventive measures.

Carcinogens↗
PubMed2005

[Long-term cosmetic results following thyroid resection].

BACKGROUND: The long-term cosmetic results following thyroid resection may soon become more relevant because minimally invasive techniques are also being promoted. PATIENTS AND METHODS: Two hundred forty-four patients were prospectively enrolled for a questionnaire regarding long-term results following thyroid resection. Ninety of these patients were clinically examined. RESULTS: The cosmetic results were judged by more than 90% of the patients as excellent or good. Women were slightly more critical about their results (P=0.06). Some kind of wound infection was reported in 4.1%, hypertrophic scar in 4.1%, and mild dysphagia in 7%. The results were not associated with the kind or extent of resection. The length of the scars was 4 cm (range 3-7) and the width 2 mm (range 1-4). The surgeons also judged the scars as good or excellent in most cases but were more critical than the patients. CONCLUSION: Since the long-term results of conventional surgery are, in most cases, so good, it seems difficult to improve the results by new minimally invasive techniques.

Adult↗
PubMed1992

High-performance liquid chromatographic determination of alpha-tocopheryl nicotinate in cosmetic preparations.

alpha-Tocopheryl nicotinate (alpha-TN) accelerates blood circulation and stimulates hair follicle cells, hence it is an active ingredient in a broad range of cosmetic products. A reversed-phase high-performance liquid chromatographic method was developed to determine alpha-TN in cosmetic preparations with alpha-tocopheryl acetate as internal standard. The method was found to be rapid, precise and specific.

Chromatography, High Pressure Liquid↗
PubMed1985

Modification of the Draize eye test for the safety testing of cosmetics.

Until alternatives to the Draize test have been developed and shown to be adequate for assessing the safety of cosmetic products, modification of the existing method to reduce the numbers of animals required and the severity of the effects induced is of great importance. In the testing of cosmetic products, comparison with already known products plays an important role. Tests to demonstrate whether a new product is better or less well tolerated than a known one can be carried out with concentrations that are only slightly irritating. A decrease or increase in effect is clearly identifiable with these relatively low concentrations, and allows the product to be appropriately assessed.

Animals↗
PubMed1994

Biological effects of cosmetic talc.

A review of the literature reveals two primary issues: (1) a weak, but not causal, association of hygienic use of cosmetic talc and ovarian cancer; (2) lung changes in animals exposed to talc aerosol concentrations that resulted in lung overload. The evidentiary weight of the most significant of the epidemiological and laboratory studies and their biological significance for human risk assessment are briefly discussed. Publications describing granulomatous lesions attributed to talc on surgical gloves, and consequences of accidental inhalation of baby powder by infants are also reviewed. The literature reviewed does not provide any convincing evidence that pure cosmetic talc, when used as intended, presents a health risk to the human consumer.

Animals↗
PubMed1995

Assay of vitamin A palmitate and vitamin E acetate in cosmetic creams and lotions by supercritical fluid extraction and HPLC.

The use of supercritical fluid extraction (SFE) as an alternative to liquid extraction was examined for the isolation of vitamin A palmitate and vitamin E acetate from cream and lotion preparations. Investigation of the factors controlling the extraction efficiency in SFE indicated that vitamin recoveries were affected mainly by the extraction pressure and by the degree of sample dispersion. The vitamins were analysed by high-performance liquid chromatography after a 30-min extraction of the cosmetic product with supercritical carbon dioxide at 40 degrees C and at a pressure of 250 atm. Compared with conventional liquid extraction SFE produced slightly lower recoveries (> 91.6%) but afforded a more effective purification of the cosmetic matrices. Moreover, SFE minimized sample handling and the use of harmful solvents and provided mild extraction conditions for the analysis of the labile vitamins. Vitamin E acetate and vitamin A palmitate were assayed in commercial cream and lotion formulations using the proposed SFE technique.

Anticarcinogenic Agents↗
PubMed2006

The concentrations and distribution of polycyclic musks in a typical cosmetic plant.

Polycyclic musks [cashmeran (DPMI), celestolide (ADBI), phantolide (AHMI), traseolide (ATII), tonalide (AHTN) and galaxolide (HHCB)] in the air, wastewater, sludge samples of a typical cosmetic plant were analyzed. DPMI, ADBI, HHCB and AHTN were found in all samples, and ATII was not found in any sample. HHCB and AHTN were the major components in all samples. The polycyclic musk concentrations were very high in the air of the cosmetic plant, and polycyclic musks were mostly contained in the gas phase at the percentage of 86.35-97.70%. Average polycyclic musk concentrations in effluent were high, and ranged from 0.62 to 32.06 microgl-1. The removal efficiency during the active sludge wastewater treatment was also high, resulting from the adsorption of those compounds into the sludge. So the polycyclic musk concentrations were very high in the primary sludge and second sludge, and ranged from 1.78 to 92.45 mgkg-1 (dry), and from 2.87 to 65.67 mgkg-1 (dry), respectively. Results suggested that the sludge needed to be further treated to make polycyclic musks less influence to the environment.

Benzopyrans↗
PubMed2004

Optimization by experimental design and artificial neural networks of the ion-interaction reversed-phase liquid chromatographic separation of twenty cosmetic preservatives.

Particular attention are recently receiving antimicrobial agents added as preservatives in hygiene and cosmetics commercial products, since some of them are suspected to be harmful to the human health. The preservatives used belong to different classes of chemical species and are generally used in their mixtures. Multi-component methods able to simultaneously determinate species with different chemical structure are therefore highly required in quality control analysis. This paper presents an ion interaction RP-HPLC method for the simultaneous separation of the 20 typical antimicrobial agents most used in cosmetics and hygiene products, that are: benzoic acid, salicylic acid, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid, methyl-, ethyl-, propyl-, butyl-, benzyl-benzoate, methyl-, ethyl-, propyl-, butyl-, benzyl-paraben, o-phenyl-phenol, 4-chloro-m-cresol, triclocarban, dehydroacetic acid, bronopol, sodium pyrithione and chlorhexidine. For the development of the method and the optimization of the chromatographic conditions, an experimental design was planned and models were built by the use of artificial neural network to correlate the retention time of each analyte to the variables and their interactions. The neuronal models developed showed good predictive ability and were used, by a grid search algorithm, to optimize the chromatographic conditions for the separation of the mixture.

Chromatography, High Pressure Liquid↗
PubMed2005

Determination of phenolics in cosmetic creams and similar emulsions.

A new method for the analysis of phenolics in cosmetic creams has been developed, based on a systematic study of the extractability of five phenolic compounds from such emulsions. A solid-liquid extraction using ultrasound was applied as a prior stage to the chromatographic determination of phenolics in the extracts. Three solvents, hexane, methanol and water, were used as extracting agents. These solvents permit both the de-emulsification of the creams and the extraction of phenolics. A factorial fractional experimental design was developed to analyse the influence in the extraction process of five different extraction variables: ultrasound horn, temperature, extracting volume, cycle and amplitude of ultrasounds. Graphic analysis of results revealed the variables with most influence in the extraction, as well as the interactions between the variables. Finally, the influence of the extraction time and the sample quantity were also studied. With this new method, phenolics can be extracted from silicone-based cosmetic creams in 10 min, using 50 degrees C as extraction temperature. RSDs (n=6) calculated ranged from 1.5% for ferulic acid to 6.5% for epicatechin. Recoveries of between 88.9% for gallic acid and 98.4% for caffeic acid were obtained.

Cosmetics↗
PubMed2006

Ethnobotany of medicinal plants used by Assamese people for various skin ailments and cosmetics.

The present paper deals with the medicinal plants used by the people of Assam for curing different skin ailments and for cosmetics. A total of 85 plants belonging to 49 families have been documented for their therapeutic use against skin diseases and as herbal care. The herbal medicines were prepared from various plant parts of single plant, or multiple plants. The majority of the preparation was made using water as the medium. The mode of application was topical, but in many cases it was also administered orally. In several cases the pure herbal preparations was administered along with milk, ghee, honey, coconut oil, curd, etc. Remedies for 18 skin ailments were documented through this study. About 14 plants are known for their use to cure multiple skin diseases. Among these Curcuma longa and Melia azaderach constitute the major plants. The herbal cosmetic products used by the people of Assam ranges from the enhancement of skin colour, hair care, removal of ugly spots, colouring of nails, palms, and teeth. However, many of the plant preparations used for enhancing beauty were also applied for therapeutic use. Herbal remedies were also available for skin burns, prickly heat and pimples. Information on nine plants used for managing dry skin also emerged from this study.

Administration, Oral↗
PubMed2004

Determination of cationic surfactants as the preservatives in an oral solution and a cosmetic product by capillary electrophoresis.

In this study, a capillary electrophoresis method was developed for the determination of cationic surfactants, benzethonium and cetylpyridinium ions, which are commonly used as preservatives in various pharmaceutical and cosmetic products. Determination was performed in a fused-silica capillary using a mixed 75 mmol/L phosphoric acid and 50% acetonitrile electrolyte at pH 2.5. Analysis of benzethonium and cetylpyridinium ions was achieved in around 5 min. Repeatability in migration times (R.S.D.%) for benzethonium and cetylpyridinium ions were 0.3. The calibration curves were linear from 0.0125 to 0.400 mmol/L for benzethonium ions and from 0.025 to 0.400 mmol/L for cetylpyridinium ions. The minimum detection limits (signal-to-noise ratio=3) are 1.47 and 4.30 microg/mL for benzethonium and cetylpyridinium ions, respectively. The method was applied to the analysis of benzethonium ion in a cosmetic product and cetylpyridinium ion in a mouthwash.

Administration, Oral↗
PubMed2005

Cosmetic oculofacial applications of botulinum toxin: a report by the American Academy of Ophthalmology.

OBJECTIVE: To determine the safety and effectiveness of botulinum toxin for cosmetic oculofacial use. METHODS: Literature searches for relevant citations were conducted in October 2003 for the years 1965 to 2003. The panel reviewed and rated the articles for study design, methods, and results. RESULTS: Randomized double-masked controlled studies showed statistically significant improvement in glabellar, frontal, and lateral canthal rhytids (wrinkles) when injected with botulinum toxin. Standardized documentation using photographs and masked grading by the patient and physician support the efficacy of botulinum toxin for treatment of dynamic rhytids in the glabellar region, forehead, and lateral canthal area. Complications and adverse effects associated with treatment are infrequent and short lived. CONCLUSIONS: Botulinum toxin is safe in the short term and effective in the temporary treatment of glabellar, frontal, and lateral canthal rhytids. Potential functional complications should be discussed with patients who are seeking cosmetic rejuvenation of the periocular and facial region. Further research is needed to determine the ideal effective dose for particular anatomic areas, ideal concentration, applicable doses across the different serotypes of botulinum toxin, duration of effect, changes in efficacy (if any) over extended periods of treatment, and long-term safety.

Academies and Institutes↗
PubMed2005

Cosmetic dermatology and physicians' ethical obligations: more than just hope in a jar.

Cosmetic dermatology provides new esthetic options for patients and expanded practice opportunities for physicians. Perhaps because of its recent inception, discussions of the ethical quandaries in the field are relatively new. Certainly, these dilemmas remain unresolved. This article aims to identify ethical obligations that practicing cosmetic dermatologists and the professional societies that regulate them should assume. Heightened attention to familiar duties and new attention to proposed responsibilities will enhance patient safety and choice. It will also ensure that dermatologists practice their craft in an ethically sound manner.

Cosmetics↗
PubMed1978

Detection of preservatives in pharmaceutical and cosmetic products using agar gel electrophoresis.

A method is described using high voltage agar gel electrophoresis for the separation and microbiological detection of preservatives in pharmaceutical and cosmetic products. The positions of the preservatives were detected as zones of inhibition of a test organism within the nutrient agar gel and can be characterised by their migration, shape and presence of a halo. A wide range of preservatives commonly used in pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations could be detected in low concentrations. The method however was not suitable for certain volatile preservatives and many primarily antifungal compounds could be detected above their use concentration.

Cosmetics↗