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[Recent developments on the European ban on animal experiments for cosmetics].

For the second time the European Commission has postponed the sales ban on cosmetics products that have been developed and tested in animal experiments now until 2002. In the meantime the Commission wants to adopt the Seventh Amendment of the EU Cosmetics Directive. In its draft the Commission proposes to scrap the sales ban and replace it with an animal testing ban. This change would avoid possible conflicts with the WTO, however, from the animal welfare point of view would result in animal testing moving into third countries instead of avoiding them. This is because cosmetics products tested on animals outside the EU could be sold in the EU without any restrictions. As a consequence this measure would take the pressure from authorities and industry to further develop and adopt alternative methods. Other proposed measures are not acceptable from the animal welfare point of view, e.g. because they contradict Directive 86/609 and would result in a delay of the application of validated alternative methods. The Deutscher Tierschutzbund therefore still demands an immediate and complete sales ban in connection with an animal testing ban within the EU.

Animal Testing Alternatives↗

Recovery of DNA for forensic analysis from lip cosmetics.

To obtain a reference DNA profile from a missing person, we analyzed a variety of personal effects, including two lip cosmetics, both of which gave full DNA profiles. Further investigations were undertaken to explore this previously unreported source of DNA. We have tested a range of brands and types of lip cosmetics. Our studies have revealed that lip cosmetics are an excellent source of DNA, with almost 80% of samples giving a result. However, artifacts are frequently observed in the DNA profiles when Chelex is used for the DNA extraction and additional DNA purification procedures are required to ensure that an accurate DNA profile is obtained.

Cosmetics↗

Comparative study of the effects of cosmetic formulations with or without hydroxy acids on hairless mouse epidermis by histopathologic, morphometric, and stereologic evaluation.

Hydroxy acids have been extensively used in cosmetic and dermatologic formulations because of their satisfactory results in terms of maintaining a young and healthy skin and in recovering aged skin. The purpose of the present study was to examine whether treatment with glycolic acid, lactic acid, a fruit acids mixture, malic acid ester, or salicylic esters of lipophilic acid produces different cosmetic results and produces changes in hairless mice epidermis. Histopathologic, morphometric, and stereologic studies were carried out to investigate the possible alterations caused by formulations containing hydroxy acids or derivatives. Statistical analysis from the results indicate that, under present experimental conditions, formulations containing glycolic acid or lactic acid or a fruit acids mixture or malic acid ester acted on the epidermis, causing a thickening of the epithelium where the basal and spinous layers also showed increased thickness. The cells reached the largest volume, and the nuclei were also more voluminous. The results demonstrate that cosmetic benefits from the use of hydroxy acids are caused by modification of the skin surface, the epidermis. The hydroxy acids were more effective when compared with the control and their derivatives in a mouse model.

Animals↗

Large-scale mercury exposure due to a cream cosmetic: community-wide case series.

OBJECTIVE: To describe demographic characteristics, patterns of use, reported symptoms, and laboratory results associated with mercury exposure among people who used a beauty cream containing mercury. DESIGN. Descriptive study of a case series. SETTING: The Hong Kong community. PARTICIPANTS: Users of a cream cosmetic who contacted the Department of Health following a public announcement. MAIN OUTCOME MEASURES: Urine and blood mercury concentrations, cream mercury content, self-reported symptoms, duration of cream use, and duration since last cream use. RESULTS: We interviewed 314 cream users, 99% of whom were women. The mean urine and blood mercury concentrations of 286 users, who submitted a urine or blood sample, were 45.2 microg/L (reference level, <20 microg/L) and 17.1 microg/L (reference level, <10 microg/L), respectively; 65% of these participants had elevated mercury concentrations. The mercury content of the cream cosmetic ranged from 660 to 57 000 ppm. Seventy-eight percent of all cream users reported no symptoms, but absence of symptoms was not predictive of low urine and blood mercury concentrations. Urine mercury concentrations were significantly higher among people who last used the cream within 45 days. Blood mercury concentrations were elevated following cream use for as short as 2 days. CONCLUSIONS: The majority of cream users had increased urine or blood mercury concentrations but remained asymptomatic, implying that the incidence of overt symptomatic mercury poisoning resulting from dermal application of creams with mercury content lower than 57 000 ppm is low. Doctors should take a history of the use of cosmetics if patients have clinical or laboratory evidence of mercury exposure; such cases should be reported to public health authorities.

Adolescent↗

Penetration enhancement in mouse skin and lipolysis in adipocytes by TAT-GKH, a new cosmetic ingredient.

Since the basic domain of human immunodeficiency virus type I (HIV-1) transactivator of transcription (TAT) protein was reported to possess the ability to traverse biological membranes efficiently, various therapeutic proteins have been attached to TAT for the purpose of therapy. In this study, the tripeptide GKH (glycine-lysine-histidine) derived from parathyroid hormone (PTH), known as lipolytic peptide, was attached to 9-poly lysine (TAT) to be used as a cosmetic ingredient in slimming products. TAT-GKH at 10(-5) M induced approximately 37.6% and 41.5% maximal lipolytic effects in cultured 3T3-L1 differentiated adipocytes and in epididymal adipocytes isolated from rats, respectively, compared with basal lipolysis. The lipolytic effect of GKH was not changed by TAT-GKH fusion. In cytotoxicity tests, there was no cytotoxicity in any dose concentration of TAT-GKH. We confirmed that TAT-GKH induced lipolytic activity by GKH without cytotoxicity and with the possibility of its use as a safe cosmetic ingredient. TAT-GKH elevated penetration into excised hairless mice skin 36 times more efficiently than GKH. TAT-GKH can be used as a cosmetic ingredient in slimming products, with both penetration enhancement and lipolytic effect without cytotoxicity.

Adipocytes↗

[Analysis of the phthalates in cosmetics by capillary gas chromatography].

A capillary gas chromatographic method with flame ionization detector (GC-FID) for the detection of the six phthalates (dimethyl phthalate (DMP), diethyl phthalate (DEP), di-n-butyl phthalate (DBP), butyl benzyl phthalate (BBP), di(2-ethylhexyl) phthalate (DEHP), di-n-octyl phthalate (DOP)) in the cosmetics was developed. The phthalates were extracted from cosmetics with methanol under ultrasonication and then separated with high-speed centrifugation. The supernatant was dehydrated and filtrated through membrane with 0.5 microm pore diameter. The filtrate was injected into the GC system for analysis. Then the positive results observed in the GC-FID chromatogram were confirmed by gas chromatography-electron impact-mass detection (GC-EI-MS) analysis. Retention times of the peaks could be applied for qualitative analysis. External standard method was used for quantitative analysis. The recoveries of the six phthalates were between 82.90% and 109.50%. The relative standard deviations were between 2.1% and 4.6%. The detection limits of the method were: 0.1 ng for DMP, DEP, DBP and BBP, and 0.5 ng for DEHP and DOP, respectively. The method presented the advantages of high precision, high sensitivity, small sample size, and simple pretreatment. The method can be used to test the six phthalates in the cosmetics.

Chromatography, Gas↗

[Eye cosmetics--the beauty and the beast].

The use of eye cosmetics is a popular practice in modern times that dates back to ancient civilizations. This practice, however, is not without hazards. The most common adverse effect of eye cosmetics is eyelid dermatitis, although an array of other adverse effects has been reported. This article reviews the different types of eye cosmetics in current use, their composition and the adverse effects of both commercial and traditional products.

Cosmetics↗

Analysis of consumer cosmetic products for phthalate esters.

A rapid and sensitive reverse-phase HPLC method with UV detection was developed for the quantitation of dimethyl phthalate (DMP), diethyl phthalate (DEP), butyl benzyl phthalate (BBP), dibutyl phthalate (DBP), and di(2-ethylhexyl) phthalate (DEHP) in cosmetic preparations. Average recoveries of the phthalate esters were better than 90%. In a survey of 48 consumer cosmetic products, including hair care products, deodorants, lotions and creams, nail products, fragrances, and body washes, most products were found to contain at least one phthalate ester. DEP was detected most frequently at concentrations up to 38,663 ppm. DBP was found in fewer products, but at levels up to 59,815 ppm. Based on the available exposure and toxicity data, the FDA has concluded that there is insufficient data to conclude that a human health hazard exists from exposure to phthalate esters from cosmetic products.

Chromatography, High Pressure Liquid↗

Chitosan beads loaded with essential oils in cosmetic formulations.

The aim of this work is to evaluate the stability and release of chitosan beads loaded with volatile molecules of Mentha piperita essential oil (E.O.) in a cosmetic formulation. The ability of the beads to quickly release Mentha piperita E.O. during use of a cosmetic formulation such as a bath foam is also assessed. The chitosan beads were produced with three different chitosan dispersions gelled with two different gelling solutions: (a) a 10% solution of sodium hydroxide (NaOH) and (b) a 4% solution of sodium tripolyphosphate (TPP). A few properties of six bead samples loaded with Mentha piperita E.O. are assessed. The properties are morphology, size, swelling ability, encapsulation efficiency, stability in time, and fast release of Mentha piperita E.O. during the use phase of the cosmetic formulation.

Chitosan↗

N-nitrosoalkanolamines in cosmetics.

A method has been developed for the determination of the N-nitrosoalkanolamines, N-nitrosodiethanolamine (NDELA) and N-nitrosobis(2-hydroxypropyl)amine (NDHPA) in cosmetics. In model systems, we studied nitrosation of the most relevant precursors by NaNO2, by the preservatives Bronopol and Bronidox and by nitric oxides. Secondary amines were most rapidly nitrosated, and Bronopol, Bronidox and atmospheric nitric oxides appeared to be the most relevant nitrosating agents. In order to remove the most important sources of contamination, the Federal Health Office issued an official recommendation to producers to avoid use of secondary amines in cosmetics (March, 1987). Analysis of cosmetics taken from the German market 6-18 months later showed that only 19/126 samples were contaminated with NDELA (12-235 micrograms/kg or NDHPA (40-215 micrograms/kg). The results reflect a strong downward trend in contamination.

Carcinogens↗

Cosmetics for the elderly.

Cosmetics and toiletries are a very important part of the life of the elderly patient. As physicians, we must know how to recommend them; as people approaching old age ourselves, we should know how to use them. Aging skin is fragile, pale, dry, and sensitive. Sunscreens, emollients, and fragrance-free cosmetics should become part of our recommendations and use. Color and camouflage cosmetics and hair color can make a person look good, and softness is the key to natural beauty.

Aged↗

[Research on Kathon CG in cosmetic and personal hygiene products].

Kathon is an anti-microbial agent that is used as a preservative in cosmetics and bodily hygiene products. At the recommended levels of usage Kathon is innocuous and has a recognised efficacy. Nevertheless, following reappearance of contact allergic eczemas due to cosmetics and bodily hygiene products different authors have reported increase in sensitisation to it. We have met the same problems in the Service de Dermatology++ of the Hospital Sainte Marguerite at Marseille and we wished to make a deeper examination of the question and to ascertain whether the current cosmetics contained Kathon CG. For this we have developed a technique of liquid chromatography and tested 44 creams. Eight contained Kathon CG, of which 2 were responsible for contact eczema in patients.

Chromatography, High Pressure Liquid↗

Comedogenicity testing of cosmetics.

Adult acne can occur from the use or perhaps incorrect removal of cosmetics, and cosmetic firms have adopted the use of the rabbit ear comedogenicity assay to ensure the safety and noncomedogenicity of cosmetics.

Acne Vulgaris↗

Screening cosmetic products for N-nitroso compounds by chemiluminescent determination of nitric oxide.

Cosmetic products were screened for total N-nitroso compounds by chemiluminescent measurement of nitric oxide liberated by the reductive cleavage of the N-nitroso group. The cosmetic was first partitioned between methylene chloride and water to separate polar and nonpolar N-nitroso compounds. Each extract was then examined for the presence of N-nitroso compounds by adding the cleavage reagent and sweeping the nitric oxide formed into a chemiluminescent analyzer. Although the method is not intended to be quantitative, recovery studies were conducted to determine measurable levels. Recovery studies of polar N-nitroso compounds were conducted by adding N-nitrosodiethanolamine (NDELA) to a cream, a shampoo, and a lotion at 3 levels, i.e., 80, 320, and 960 ppb, and then determining NDELA by the method. Recoveries ranged from 48 to 83% (mean 68%; SD = 11.9). For recoveries of nonpolar N-nitroso compounds, 100, 200, and 500 ppb of N-nitrosomethyltetradecylamine were added to the 3 cosmetic products. Recoveries ranged from 58 to 70% (mean 63%; SD = 5.3).

Cosmetics↗

Isothiazolinone preservative as important contact allergen in cosmetics.

Kathon CG (K-CG) containing as active ingredients 2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one and its 5-chloro analogue, is a very effective and widely used preservative system for cosmetics and toiletries. Of 243 patients routinely patch tested because of suspected contact dermatitis 8 (3.3%) reacted to K-CG 100 ppm in water. All but 1 patient allergic to the preservative used cosmetics of 2 brands very widely distributed in the Netherlands, both containing K-CG. The observed positive patch test reactions were shown to be relevant in all these cases. Repeated open application tests were positive in 3/5 of the patients tested. The pertinent literature is reviewed. It is concluded that contact allergy to K-CG is common. Sensitization usually occurs from creams and lotions applied to damaged skin (irritant dermatitis, atopic dermatitis), but some patients become sensitized by cosmetic products used on healthy skin, especially on the face and around the eyes. The risk of induction and/or elicitation of contact dermatitis from the use of rinse-off products such as soap, shampoo and shower foam is small.

Adolescent↗

High pressure liquid chromatographic-thermal energy determination of N-nitrosodiethanolamine in cosmetics.

Methods for the determination and confirmation of N-nitrosodiethanolamine (NDELA) in cosmetic products were developed. The NDELA fraction was isolated from a cosmetic product by a series of solvent extractions which were designed to concentrate the NDELA and remove ingredients deleterious to the analytical system. The isolated fraction was then analyzed for NDELA using a high pressure liquid chromatograph (HPLC) interfaced with a thermal energy analyzer (TEA). The compound was measured by comparison of detector response with those of known standards. NDELA was verified by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry of the silyl derivative after preliminary cleanup of the sample by gradient elution HPLC on a Partisil 10 PAC column. The limit of detection of NDELA by TEA is 2-3 ng, which corresponds to 20-30 ppb in the cosmetic product. Analysis of an emulsion cream and a hair grooming gel spiked at 3 and 4 ng concentration levels, respectively, yielded recoveries ranging from 71 to 103% (average 88%).

Carcinogens↗

Cosmetics in the postsurgical patient.

The application of colored facial cosmetics is an important part of patient postsurgical rehabilitation. Careful cosmetic selection can avoid surgical complications while providing necessary camouflaging until healing is complete. Dermatologic surgeons should provide guidelines to their patients on postsurgical cosmetic use.

Cosmetics↗

[Acute intoxication by cosmetics].

Intoxications due to cosmetics are of various types, but certain substances may be particularly harmful, especially when the constituants include acetone, boric acid and borates, ethyl alcohol, bromates, formol, methyl alcohol, propylene glycol, thallium, thioglycolate.. Every cosmetic substance may induce accidental intoxications. Most often, fluid cosmetics are absorbed either by children or by feeble-minded subjects. In all intoxication, one must take account of the age and weight of the patient, of the quantity absorbed, of the toxicity and of the constituants of the substance.

Adolescent↗