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PubMed1986

[Preservatives based on methylisothiazolones in cosmetic products--theory and analysis].

Methyl isothiazolone formulations (Kathon CG) promoted as preservatives in the cosmetic field were investigated for their organic components by capillary gas chromatography/mass spectrometry. 2-methyl-3(2H)-isothiazolone and 5-chloro-2-methyl-3(2H)-isothiazolone were identified as effective major components and 4,5-dichloro-2-methyl-3(2H)-isothiazolone, 3-chloro-N-methyl-propionamide and dichloro-N-methyl-acetamide as minor components. Various methods like thin-layer chromatography with chemical and UV-detection, high-performance thin-layer chromatography using direct optical measurement, capillary gas chromatography with nitrogen selective thermionic detector, high-performance liquid chromatography with UV- resp. diode-array-UV-detector and UV-spectrometry were applied for detection and identification of the compounds. For quantitative determination it was necessary to obtain the corresponding purified isothiazolones as reference compounds. Commercial formulations were fractionated by reversed phase flash chromatography. Then the exact composition of the fractions obtained was determined by an absolute method, based on chemical reaction on a semi-micro scale. These solutions were used as reference for calibration. For quantitative determination of 2-methyl-3(2H)-isothiazolones reversed phase HPLC has proved to possess good reliability using the internal standard method (2-acetyl-5-chlorothiophen). Response factors and the relative calibration curves for this method were ascertained. A special technique based on extractive separation and purification by flash chromatography was developed for the isolation of 2-methyl-3(2H)-isothiazolone and 5-chloro-2-methyl-3(2H)-isothiazolone from cosmetic products. The average recovery rates and detection limits are given. The method was tested on several different commercial cosmetics. The samples contained between 5.5 and 39.4 mg/kg of methylisothiazolones.

Chemical Phenomena↗
PubMed1982

Effects of allergen controlled cosmetics on hyperpigmented dermatitis.

Prior to the late 1970s, cosmetic dermatitis was quite common in Japan. Once sensitizers were established, in cosmetics, soaps, shampoos, and other commonly used substances, effective treatment was only possible if the cycle of recrudescence could be broken. The Allergen Controlled System accomplished this by preventing contact with the main contact sensitizers. Although the number of cases of pigmented cosmetic dermatitis has declined because of restrictions on the use of several major sensitizers, the Allergen Controlled System remains an effective treatment for the cases that still occur.

Adult↗
PubMed2001

[Radiotherapy for basal cell carcinoma. Local control and cosmetic outcome].

BACKGROUND: The basal cell carcinoma which is often occurring in the elderly can be well treated by surgery. For large and recurrent lesions and in cosmetically difficult locations external beam radiotherapy provides an equally effective treatment alternative. PATIENTS AND METHODS: From 1986 to 1999, 60 females and 39 males received primary radiotherapy for a total of 127 histologically verified basal cell carcinoma lesions. Tumors were mostly localized in the face at the temple, nose and forehead. Radiotherapy was applied with orthovoltage equipment and energies of up to 100 kV. Single doses ranged from 2 to 5 Gy related to the 80%-isodose depth. Weekly doses ranged from 8 to 25 Gy and total doses from 25 to 60 Gy. The mean follow-up period was 36 +/- 21 months. The acute sequelae were scored according to CTC criteria. Radiogenic late effects as single events were related to the radiation portal. RESULTS: 3 months after treatment all besides one patient (99%) experienced complete tumor remission (CR). In all cases, acute radiation reaction occurred within the radiation portal: CTC Grade 1 in 100%, CTC Grade 2 in 54% and CTC Grade 3 in 30% of the cases. All side effects regressed under simple local measures without further complications. Late sequelae were observed in three cases. Overall cosmetic outcome was good to excellent in almost all patients (98%). In two cases (2%) a local recurrence was observed 6 and 20 months after radiotherapy. CONCLUSION: External beam (orthovoltage) radiotherapy is very effective and yields high tumor control rates and good cosmetic results in long-term follow-up. Former dermatological treatment concepts should be replaced by an ICRU-based radiophysical dose prescription and should respect the newer radiobiological fractionation principles.

Aged↗
PubMed2005

[Cosmetic colorants. Toxicology and regulation].

Some recent publications raised concern over a possible link between hair dye use and the incidence of bladder tumours in a Californian population. The Scientific Committee for Cosmetic Products and Non-Food Products intended for Consumers (SCCNFP) demanded the toxicological testing of all hair dyes used in Europe to exclude any risk. The EU commission initiated corresponding measures. Only safe hair dyes will be included on a positive list while all other hair dyes will be banned. The hair dye lawsone--the dyeing ingredient of henna--was evaluated by the SCCNFP as genotoxic but the BfR came to another conclusion. The regulation of both lawsone and henna remains an open question. Furthermore, some cosmetic colorants were critically discussed. The azo dyes CI 12150, CI 26100, CI 27290 and CI 20170 are allowed for use in cosmetics. On cleavage they form the carcinogenic aromatic amines o-anisidine, 4-aminoazobenzene and 2,4-xylidine, respectively. For three of these dyes the cleavage by human skin bacteria in vitro to the respective arylamine was shown experimentally. Further problems may arise from colorants used for tattoos and permanent makeup. These products up to now are not subject to legislation and there are no regulatory stipulations with respect to health safety and purity for colorants used for these purposes.

Carcinogenicity Tests↗
PubMed2004

Development of an HPLC method for the identification and dosage of non-allowed substances in cosmetic products. Part I: local anaesthetics and antihistaminics.

An HPLC method with ultraviolet detection coupled with a solid-phase extraction sample clean up was developed for the analysis of five local anaesthetics and four antihistaminics in cosmetic products. The presence of these compounds in commercial cosmetic samples is fordbidden. Extracts from real samples were applied to a solid-phase extraction C18 cartridge, and the analytes were eluted with 8:2 (v/v) acetonitrile/water containing 1% trifluoroacetic acid. HPLC separation was then performed for the identification and determination of the analytes using a Purospher RP-18 column, two gradient eluting systems and a photodiode-array detector. The accuracy of the method was verified by spiking experiments on home-made cosmetic samples. The analytical recoveries were satisfactory.

Anesthetics, Local↗
PubMed2026

From bacterial to microbiome-derived vesicles: genome-informed identity, source qualification, and translational quality for skin-directed cosmetics.

Bacterial extracellular vesicles (BEVs) are increasingly proposed as materials for skin-directed cosmetics, yet rapid adoption of "exosome" terminology has outpaced clarity on their origin, composition, and manufacturing quality. This review argues that the value of BEVs depends on scientific discipline rather than marketing appeal, and that they are promising because they are biologically potent, not because they are intrinsically benign. We retain BEVs as the scientific umbrella term for vesicles released by bacteria and we propose the term microbiome-derived vesicles (MDVs) as the consumer-facing designation for qualified commensal BEVs - a surface term that avoids the difficulty of "bacterial" while its definition preserves bacterial provenance. We develop a three-axis framework for BEV identity that integrates compositional analysis, producer-strain genomics, and functional or safety profiling, and we position whole-genome sequencing (WGS) as decisive for source qualification and mechanistic interpretation but insufficient to prove the efficacy of a purified preparation. Building on this framework, we summarize isolation, purification, and analytical characterization requirements; interpret current skin-efficacy evidence in light of its methodological limits; and discuss formulation, cosmetic application, regulatory positioning, and manufacturable quality. We conclude that transparent bacterial provenance, reproducible preparation, and evidence proportionate to the claims made are prerequisites for evaluating commensal BEVs, described for skin applications as MDVs, as a scientifically defined cosmetic platform.

Bacterial extracellular vesicles↗
PubMed1992

Guidelines for safety evaluation of cosmetics ingredients in the EC countries.

The Scientific Committee on Cosmetology (SCC) of the Commission of the European Communities was established in 1978 to assist the Commission in the application of the 76/768 Directive, which regulates the production and marketing of cosmetics products. The Committee has been asked to update the general guidelines, defined in 1982, for testing cosmetics ingredients with the aim of ensuring consumers' safety. In the present paper the full document approved by the SCC in October 1990 is reported. This new document is based on the experience of the Committee over the last 10 years, during which more than 400 cosmetics ingredients have been evaluated. The document also highlights the need to proceed to define standard methods to be used to assess dermal absorption and phototoxicity--areas in which international guidelines have not yet been approved. The document also includes some comments made by the author in order to explain better the position of the Committee in relation to certain items.

Animals↗
PubMedDate not supplied

Lateral minimal parathyroidectomy: safety and cosmetic benefits.

BACKGROUND: Surgery has been the cornerstone of treatment for primary hyperparathyroidism for almost three decades. The recent application of state-of-the art imaging technologies to localize hyperfunctioning adenomas preoperatively has enabled surgeons to minimize the surgical procedure, reduce total operation time and improve cosmetic results without compromising the cure rate. STUDY DESIGN: Twenty-one patients with a diagnosis of primary hyperparathyroidism were selected for treatment with the lateral minimal parathyroidectomy approach following preoperative imaging with ultrasonography, Tc-sestamibi scan, or both. All patients were followed during hospitalization and for three months after for calcium levels and cosmetic results. RESULTS: The procedure was performed by the same surgical team for all 21 patients; under general anesthesia in 20 patients and under deep sedation in 1 patient at high surgical risk. In all cases, parathyroid adenoma was accurately localized by at least one of the imaging modalities before surgery: ultrasonography in 16 patients (76%), Tc-sestamibi scan in 15 (71%), and both in 10 (48%). Average total operative time for the lateral minimal invasive approach was 46 minutes (range 30-65 minutes). Blood calcium levels returned to normal in all patients, and cosmetic results were graded good to excellent. CONCLUSIONS: With accurate preoperative localization of unilateral parathyroid adenoma by any imaging modality and careful patient selection, lateral minimal parathyroidectomy performed by a skilled surgeon may serve as a safe, effective procedure with good clinical and aesthetic outcomes.

Adenoma↗
PubMed2006

Environmental oestrogens, cosmetics and breast cancer.

The established role of oestrogen in the development and progression of breast cancer raises questions concerning a potential contribution from the many chemicals in the environment which can enter the human breast and which have oestrogenic activity. A range of organochlorine pesticides and polychlorinated biphenyls possess oestrogen-mimicking properties and have been measured in human breast adipose tissue and in human milk. These enter the breast from varied environmental contamination of food, water and air, and due to their lipophilic properties can accumulate in breast fat. However, it is emerging that the breast is also exposed to a range of oestrogenic chemicals applied as cosmetics to the underarm and breast area. These cosmetics are left on the skin in the appropriate area, allowing a more direct dermal absorption route for breast exposure to oestrogenic chemicals and allowing absorbed chemicals to escape systemic metabolism. This review considers evidence in support of a functional role for the combined interactions of cosmetic chemicals with environmental oestrogens, pharmacological oestrogens, phyto-oestrogens and physiological oestrogens in the rising incidence of breast cancer.

Aluminum Compounds↗
PubMed2006

Cosmetic procedures for the aging face.

As the United States' population continues to age and as cosmetic procedures have become more accepted, adults from all age groups and socioeconomic brackets are seeking improvement in facial aging. Ideal correction includes improvement in the quality of skin, improvement in wrinkles, correction of soft tissue descent, removal of skin excess, and volume restoration. The physiologic rather than the chronologic age is the most important factor in determining the advisability of cosmetic surgery in elderly people. In addition to traditional cosmetic surgery procedures, the elderly population is amenable to several shortcuts, minimizing operative time and post-operative recovery. These can be performed alone or in combination with traditional procedures, improving the stigmata of facial aging and enhancing quality of life.

Aged↗
PubMed2004

Determination of methyldibromoglutaronitrile in cosmetic products by high-performance liquid chromatography with electrochemical detection. Method validation.

An increased frequency of contact allergy to methyldibromoglutaronitrile (MDBGN), a commonly used preservative in cosmetics and other consumer products, has been reported in recent years. A high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) method for the determination of MDBGN in cosmetic products has been validated in the present study. The identification is performed by reductive electrochemical detection of the bromine present in the molecule. The method is suitable for compliance testing of cosmetic products as well as for the research to support clinical and epidemiological studies.

Calibration↗
PubMed2004

Quantitative determination of formaldehyde in cosmetics using a combined solid-phase microextraction-isotope dilution mass spectrometry method.

Solid-phase microextraction (SPME) in conjunction with isotope dilution mass spectrometry (ID-MS) was employed for the analysis of formaldehyde in cosmetic products. The formaldehyde is derivatized in situ with pentafluorophenyl hydrazine. The formed hydrazone is adsorbed over a poly(dimethylsiloxane)-divinylbenzene-coated fiber and analyzed using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. The adsorption-time profiles and salting effect were studied. The quantitation was performed by using a stable isotope labeled analogue as an internal standard. The precision, recovery and detection limits were determined with spiked samples. The relative standard deviations from different spiked cosmetic samples were all less than 10% and the recoveries were between 89.00 and 101.23%. The limit of detection was of 0.39 microg/l. Compared with other techniques, the study shown here provides a simple, fast and reliable method for the analysis of formaldehyde in cosmetic products.

Calibration↗
PubMed2006

Simultaneous analysis of antioxidants and preservatives in cosmetics by supercritical fluid extraction combined with liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry.

This study evaluated supercritical fluid extraction (SFE) combined with liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-MS) to determine trace preservatives and antioxidants including methylparaben (MP), ethylparaben (EP), propylparaben (PP), butylparaben (BP), butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA), butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), alpha-tocopherol (alpha-t) and alpha-tocopherol acetate (alpha-ta) in cosmetic products. A supercritical fluid extraction procedure was used to isolate four paraben preservatives and four antioxidants from the cosmetic matrix before quantitative analysis. The optimum extraction condition was performed with static extraction for 5 min, then dynamic extraction for 20 min by using carbon dioxide supercritical fluid at 14,000 kPa and 65 degrees C. Methanol was used as collection solvent and the sea sand was chosen as a filling material. The analytes were separated on a C18 reversed-phase column using methanol-water as mobile phase and quantified by measuring its mass spectrometry. The linearity range is from 10 to 20,000 ng/g with RSD values below 18%. Detection limits are achieved at the level of 4.7-142 ng/g. It was successfully applied to the determination of paraben preservatives and antioxidants in cosmetics without tedious pretreatment.

Antioxidants↗
PubMed2005

Cosmetics in the treatment of acne vulgaris.

This article describes scenarios of patients who have acne vulgaris have tried over-the-counter products and cosmetics and are disheartened by the persistence of their disease and the resulting scars. They may have seen an aesthetician, plastic surgeon, or even a general practitioner before seeing a well-informed skin specialist. Patients perceive the dermatologist to be the skin care expert and seek guidance to obtain otherwise unobtainable results. Therefore, practicing dermatologists should take advantage of the available tools to treat patients aggressively and completely. Appropriately applied cosmetics can play a role in achieving this goal. This article describes scenarios that integrate cosmetics into an anti-acne treatment regimen that is effective and safe for all ethnic groups and is well tolerated by both male and female patients.

Acne Vulgaris↗
PubMed2006

Allergic contact dermatitis to cosmetics.

Cosmetics are used to enhance one's appearance and are used by women worldwide. This article reviews the epidemiology, clinical features, and management of cosmetic allergic contact dermatitis. Additionally, several important cosmetic-related allergens are discussed.

Allergens↗
PubMed2005

Percutaneous penetration of diethanolamine through human skin in vitro: application from cosmetic vehicles.

Concern has been raised over the safety of diethanolamine (DEA) which may be present as a minor component of alkanolamide ingredients of cosmetic formulations. Skin penetration data were therefore generated for a range of typical formulations under in-use conditions. Seven rinse-off formulations (A-E, G and H), a leave-on emulsion (F), representing prototype cosmetic formulations and containing representative levels of DEA were prepared. Target levels of DEA were attained by inclusion of DEA as either (14)C-DEA or a combination of (14)C-DEA and unlabeled DEA. Skin permeation and distribution were evaluated using human skin in vitro, static diffusion cells and phosphate buffered saline (pH 7.4) as the receptor phase. At least 12 replicate epidermal membranes were prepared from a minimum of four donors for each test group. Receptor phase samples were taken at appropriate time intervals. At the end of the test period, radioactivity remaining on the skin surface and on the diffusion cell donor cap was determined before the skin samples were tape-stripped. The remaining tissue was solubilized and radioactivity determined. Permeation was very low from all vehicles applied under in-use conditions (range 1-48 ng/cm(2) over 24 h). Comparison was also made between permeation and distribution of DEA from an infinite dose of a simple aqueous solution and the leave-on formulation (F) through paired samples of fresh and frozen full thickness skin from the same donors. When applied as an infinite dose in aqueous solution DEA permeation at 24 h was greater through frozen than through fresh skin. From the leave-on formulation, permeation was similar and very low for both fresh and frozen skin. Recovery of DEA after application of the aqueous solution to fresh human skin and subsequent aqueous and organic extraction of the epidermal and dermal tissue indicated that the majority (>98%) of DEA was in the aqueous extract, suggesting that DEA was in the free state and not associated with the lipid fraction. These data provide a basis for the estimation of the potential systemic exposure and safety margins for DEA in representative cosmetic formulations.

Administration, Cutaneous↗
PubMed2006

Stability of cosmetic formulations containing esters of vitamins E and A: chemical and physical aspects.

Cosmetic stability prediction relies on quantitative chemical determinations of active components after certain times and in different temperatures. However, physical stability, an important parameter in skin care products is not considered in these conditions. This study proposes the determination of cosmetic stability chemical and physical parameters validated by (HPLC) chromatography and rheological measurements, respectively, using a gel-cream containing retinyl palmitate and tocopheryl acetate as a model system. The predicted shelf life addresses both the physical and chemical aspects of the system. Results emphasize the importance of studying both parameters by showing the relation of components degradation and physical stability. Moreover, they contribute to an improved understanding of physical and chemical stability aspects of cosmetic formulations, mainly if they contain Vitamins A and E derivatives.

Chromatography, High Pressure Liquid↗
PubMed2005

Microdialysis sampling coupled to on-line high-performance liquid chromatography for determination of arbutin in whitening cosmetics.

We have developed a method that uses on-line microdialysis sampling coupled with high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) to determine arbutin in whitening cosmetics. The optimum analytical conditions for microdialysis sampling were a probe length of 10mm and a dialysis flow-rate of 5 microl min-1. The accuracy (% bias) for intra-day (n=6) and inter-day (n=30, five consecutive days) analyses ranged from -8.9 to 11.5%, with a precision below 7.64% R.S.D. The calibration curve was linear within the range from 0.1 to 20 mM (R2=0.9989). The detection limit was 15 microM. By comparing the arbutin levels determined this way in the whitening cosmetics with the results obtained from the no-net-flux method, we conclude that our proposed on-line microdialysis-HPLC system displays good accuracy. We evaluated the robustness of our optimum conditions by means of a Plackett-Burman design. Apart from the effect of a low flow-rate of perfusate--an increase of 12.52+/-2.31%--we observed no significant changes in the analyses upon changing the levels of any other parameter. Because this on-line method offers the advantages of simplicity, reliability, the lack of any tedious sample pretreatment process, and a reduced use of organic solvents, we believe that it is suitable for the routine analysis of commercial cosmetics.

Arbutin↗