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The allergens in cosmetics.

The ingredients responsible for allergy to cosmetics were determined in 119 patients suffering from cosmetic-related contact dermatitis. Most reactions (56.3%) were caused by skin care products, followed by nail cosmetics (13.4%), perfumes (8.4%), and hair cosmetics (5.9%). Preservatives were most frequently implicated (32.0%), followed by fragrances (26.5%) and emulsifiers (14.3%). By far the most important cosmetic allergen was Kathon CG, (a preservative system containing, as active ingredients, a mixture of methylisothiazolinone and methyl chloroisothiazolinone) reacting in 33 patients (27.7%). Other frequent causes of cosmetic-related contact allergic reactions were toluenesulfonamide/formaldehyde resin in nail hardener and/or nail lacquer (15 patients [12.6%]), and oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, an emulsifier in baby body lotion (13 patients [10.9%]).

Adolescent↗

Induction of mouse cytochrome P450 2B enzymes by amine metabolites of musk xylene: contribution of microsomal enzyme induction to the hepatocarcinogenicity of musk xylene.

Musk xylene (MX) is a synthetic nitromusk perfume ingredient that, although uniformly negative in genotoxicity testing, causes liver tumors in B6C3F1 mice. MX is also capable of inducing cytochrome P450 enzymes in a manner similar to that of phenobarbital (PB), which suggests that epigenetic mechanisms may be involved in the carcinogenic response. At the same time, MX is metabolized in vivo by nitroreduction, a reaction catalyzed by intestinal flora that yields aromatic amine metabolites. These amine metabolites are also capable of inactivating CYP2B10, the major cytochrome P450 enzyme induced by MX treatment. In the study reported here, the monoamine metabolites of MX, o- and p-NH2-MX, were evaluated for their potential to induce CYP2B10 and CYP1A2 mRNAs. Northern blot analyses indicated that both amines markedly induced CYP2B10 mRNA, whereas CYP1A2 mRNA, the enzyme implicated in the bioactivation of aromatic amines and frequently induced by aromatic amines, was induced only slightly, a response that was not different from that seen with PB. Induction of CYP2B10 mRNA suggested that the amine metabolites may contribute to the enzyme induction profile seen with MX treatment. To test this hypothesis, mice were treated with broad-spectrum antibiotics (neomycin, tetracycline, and bacitracin) to eliminate the intestinal flora and prevent formation of o- and p-NH2-MX. In antibiotic-treated mice treated with MX (200 mg/kg) for 4 d, no evidence of microsomal enzyme induction was observed, including no increases in liver weight, total cytochrome P450 content, or CYP2B protein levels. These results indicate that the amine metabolites of MX are responsible for the enzyme induction seen after MX administration. Thus, the biochemical and molecular effects of amine metabolites of MX are markedly different from those of other aromatic amines but very similar to those of PB. Therefore, it appears that MX is a non-genotoxic chemical that may cause mouse liver tumors in a manner analogous to that of PB.

Amines↗

Percutaneous absorption and metabolism of Coumarin in human and rat skin.

Coumarin is widely used as a fragrance in cosmetics, perfumes and soaps. The food and Drug Administration banned coumarin use in food because of reports that coumarin produced hepatotoxicity in rodents. Concerns about coumarin's safety have also been raised by toxicity testing conducted by the National Toxicology Program. Therefore, we initiated studies to measure the extent of coumarin absorption and metabolism in skin. [14C]Coumarin (ca. 0.5 microCi per cell) absorption in skin was measured by using two vehicles: ethanol (15 microliters cm-2) and an oil-in-water emulsion (3 mg cm-2). Absorption was determined for 24 h by using flow-through diffusion cells (0.64 cm2, exposed skin) with a receptor fluid consisting of HEPES-buffered Hank's balanced salt solution (pH 7.4). Coumarin metabolism was determined by high-performance liquid chromatography methodology. In rat skin (n = 3), the percentages of applied dose absorbed after 24 h were 54.9 +/- 0.63 (mean +/- SEM) and 86.8 +/- 5.4 for the ethanol and emulsion vehicles, respectively, with ca. 5% remaining in skin. In human skin (n = 2), the percentages of applied dose absorbed after 24 h were 64.4 +/- 0.29 and 98.0 +/- 5.3 for the ethanol and emulsion vehicles, respectively, with ca. 1% remaining in skin. The extent of skin absorption was greater from the emulsion vehicle than from the ethanol vehicle in both human and rat skin. Coumarin rapidly penetrated both rat and human skin with > 75% and > 95%, respectively, of the absorbed dose found in the receptor fluid within 6 h. No evidence of coumarin metabolism was found in either skin or receptor fluid fractions. These studies indicate that coumarin absorption is significant in skin. Systemic coumarin absorption must be expected after dermal contact with coumarin-containing products.

Animals↗

Construction and evaluation of novel fusion proteins for targeted delivery of micro particles to cellulose surfaces.

The use of IgG antibodies and fragments has been limited to specific sectors of the biotechnology industry due to the high cost of producing large batches of product necessary for alternative applications. A novel class of Camelid antibodies, known as V(HH) offer a more economical opportunity to meet a wider application in industry. In this study, we report the evaluation of four llama V(HH)-cellulose binding domain fusion proteins displaying varying formats of V(HH) and CBD domains. Proteins were characterized in a targeted particle delivery system as a method of delivering agents such as perfume to laundry in the wash cycle. Fusion proteins were shown to be stable at high pH and in the presence of a detergent base. They were also shown to bind effectively to both the designated antigen, the azo-dye reactive-red 6 (either conjugated to BSA or attached to coacervate microparticles), and cellulose. Binding strength differences were observed between the different fusion protein formats using surface plasmon resonance. The effect of key laundry ingredients was also studied. Combining the fusion proteins and particles into a delivery and deposition study generated clear microscopy evidence for bifunctionality. Confirmation of this was validated by GC-MS analysis of retained fragrance. This research, reporting the construction and characterization of a variety of fusion proteins, illustrates that the single multidomain fusion protein route offers a new technology for successful targeted delivery of encapsulated benefit agents. Furthermore, the potential to modify or select for proteins to recognize a wide range of surfaces is also possible.

Amino Acid Sequence↗

New woody and ambery notes from cedarwood and turpentine oil.

The development of a new product in the chemical industry is still driven by needs like technical properties, price/performance ratio, biodegradability, or product safety. However, in terms of improving more and more on ecological criteria, summarized under such catchphrases as sustainable development or green chemistry, another important aspect is to use renewable resources as starting materials. This is not significantly new in fragrance chemistry, and there are a lot of raw materials in the perfume oils that are derived from molecules of renewable resources. Two commonly used materials are: longifolene (from turpentine oil) and cedrene (from cedarwood oil). These compounds are very suitable for the synthesis of woody and ambery notes, and even though it seemed that all possibilities were exhausted, it is actually still feasible to discover new molecules with excellent olfactory properties such as Ambrocenide (50a), which is available in three steps from alpha-cedrene. Some of these molecules will be treated in this review, both with respect to synthesis as well as structural and sensory aspects.

Oils, Volatile↗

New alicyclic musks: the fourth generation of musk odorants.

Musk odorants are one of the most important classes of fragrances in perfumery because they impart sensuality to perfume-oil compositions. Among the three well-known classes of musks, a new and very exciting generation of musk odorants, the so-called alicyclic musks, was discovered recently, of which Helvetolide (2) and Romandolide (3) are the most popular representatives so far. To find new, structurally related alicyclic musks, we have synthesized a library of 114 unique alicyclic molecules with modified cyclohexyl moieties. The olfactory properties of all compounds were evaluated to identify the structural requirements to be met for a musk odorant.

Fatty Acids, Monounsaturated↗

Purification and characterization of rat liver enzyme catalyzing stereoselective reduction of acetylpyridines.

Acetylpyridines (1-3) are known as aroma components of foods, perfumes, and smoking suppressants, showing several biological activities and constituting part of the structure of some important biologically active compounds. We purified and characterized an enzyme that catalyzes the stereoselective reduction of acetylpyridines so that we could clarify its function. The enzyme participating in the reductive metabolism of 4-acetylpyridine (1) in the rat liver was purified by successively applying ammonium sulfate fractionation, anion-exchange, gel filtration, and affinity chromatography, and it was definitively identified as 3alpha-HSD. It preferentially reduced acetylpyridines (1-3) and acetophenone (7) to their corresponding (S)-alcohols, with high enantioselectivity. Kinetic analyses of the compounds were performed, and the V(max)/K(m) values decreased in the order of 4-, 2-, and 3-acetylpyridine (1, 3, 2), while acetophenone (7) showed almost the same value as 3-acetylpyridine (2). These results suggested that the reduction of the substrates by 3alpha-HSD is affected by the nitrogen atom in the aromatic ring.

3-alpha-Hydroxysteroid Dehydrogenase (B-Specific)↗

Unitary hypothesis for multiple triggers of the pain and strain of migraine.

Migraine headache is triggered by and associated with a variety of hormonal, emotional, nutritional, and physiological changes. The perception of migraine headache is formed when nociceptive signals originating in the meninges are conveyed to the somatosensory cortex through the trigeminal ganglion, medullary dorsal horn, and thalamus. Is there a common descending pathway accounting for the activation of meningeal nociceptors by different migraine triggers? We propose that different migraine triggers activate a wide variety of brain areas that impinge on parasympathetic neurons innervating the meninges. According to this hypothesis, migraine triggers such as perfume, stress, or awakening activate multiple hypothalamic, limbic, and cortical areas, all of which contain neurons that project to the preganglionic parasympathetic neurons in the superior salivatory nucleus (SSN). The SSN, in turn, activates postganglionic parasympathetic neurons in the sphenopalatine ganglion, resulting in vasodilation and local release of inflammatory molecules that activate meningeal nociceptors. Are there ascending pathways through which the trigeminovascular system can induce the wide variety of migraine symptoms? We propose that trigeminovascular projections from the medullary dorsal horn to selective areas in the midbrain, hypothalamus, amygdala, and basal forebrain are functionally positioned to produce migraine symptoms such as irritability, loss of appetite, fatigue, depression, or the quest for solitude. Bidirectional trafficking by which the trigeminovascular system can activate the same brain areas that have triggered its own activity in the first place provides an attractive network of perpetual feedback that drives a migraine attack for many hours and even days.

Humans↗

Sucking, not milk, is important for the rapid learning of nipple-search odors in newborn rabbits.

Newborn rabbits are only nursed once a day for 3 to 4 min and are completely dependent on a pheromone on the mother's ventrum for the release of nipple-search behavior and sucking. However, if the mother's ventrum is perfumed, pups can be conditioned in just one 3-min nursing session to respond with nipple searching to the novel odorant. To define more precisely the reinforcing properties of the nursing situation supporting such rapid learning, odor conditioning was conducted in independent groups of 2-day-old pups after successively eliminating potential reinforcing stimuli such as the doe's behavior, milk ingestion, nipple-search behavior, or sucking nipples. All experimental groups showed significant conditioning compared to control groups subjected to similar treatments on unscented does, with the strength of conditioning indicating that behavior of the doe, milk consumption, or arousal during performance of the search behavior were not major reinforcers, but rather the opportunity to suck nipples. Thus, this study suggests intraoral stimulation associated with sucking to be an important reinforcer in this paradigm, as for early olfactory learning in other young mammals.

Animals↗

Nonnutritive, thermotactile induction of filial huddling in rat pups.

Norway rat pups, 15 days of age and older, huddle preferentially with members of their own species. This normal filial response can be reassigned, however, by altering the olfactory characteristics of the mother. The present series of experiments was designed to isolate those aspects of maternal stimulation that establish the filial huddling preferences of rat pups. Results of two-choice huddling tests indicated that daily, 4-hr exposures to a perfumed foster dam induced filial preferences for odors associated with maternal care. Similar effects were also achieved with equal amounts of "mere exposure" (familiarization) to odors. Different kinds of odor-experience pairings were evaluated with a within-subject regime of alternating, daily exposures. It was found that preferences induced by maternal contact are stronger than those resulting from familiarization. We rejected the hypothesis that the nursing relationship is a necessary or contributory factor in the establishment of the rat's filial attraction; preferences for odors associated with a nonlactating foster mother were as strong as those derived from maternal contact that included nutritive nursing. Contact interactions with an inanimate, warm, scented tube induced preferences as strong as those induced by maternal care. It was concluded that thermotactile stimulation during mother-young interactions induces olfactory preferences in the weanling rat.

Animals↗

Self-enhancing effects of exposure to thin-body images.

OBJECTIVE: This study examines the effect of thin-body media images on mood, self-esteem, and self-image ratings of restrained and unrestrained eaters. A secondary purpose was to examine whether these effects were influenced by exposure duration. METHOD: Under the guise of a perception study, participants were exposed to thin-body or control advertisements (e.g., perfume bottles) for either 7 or 150 ms and then completed a questionnaire packet. RESULTS: Restrained eaters reported more favorable self-image and social self-esteem (but not appearance self-esteem) scores after exposure to thin-body images than after exposure to control advertisements. The self-image and social self-esteem scores of unrestrained eaters were unaffected by advertisement type, but their appearance self-esteem scores were lower after exposure to thin-body advertisements. No differences were found for mood ratings and total self-esteem. DISCUSSION: We discuss restraint status as a moderator of the effects of thin-body images on women's body image.

Adolescent↗

Disposition of benzyl alcohol after topical application to human skin in vitro.

Dissipation of a volatile compound or mixture from the skin surface after topical application involves both diffusion and evaporation. This report presents a detailed test of a previously described first-order kinetic approach to modeling this problem. Modified Franz diffusion cells fitted with a vapor trap were used to obtain absorption and evaporation data for benzyl alcohol (1% solution in ethanol) after application to human skin in vitro. Airflow over the skin surface (upsilon) was controlled in the experiment and accounted for in the model by allowing the evaporation rate constant(s) to vary as a function of upsilon. A linear dependence was found over the working range of the system, 10-100 mL/min. Three kinetic models were developed, all of which satisfactorily correlated cumulative absorption and evaporation results over the full range of upsilon (n = 120, s = 4-5%, r2 = 0.98-0.99). One of these was the model presented previously, in which all dissipation occurs from a single skin compartment. However, more details of the evaporation and absorption profiles could be accounted for by means of two-compartment models that explicitly consider the surface film present in the early stages post-application. The latter models seem to be better candidates for describing the time evolution of the volatile mixture evolving from the skin surface after topical application of, e.g., a complex fragrance or perfume.

Administration, Cutaneous↗

Characterization of S-adenosyl-L-methionine:(iso)eugenol O-methyltransferase involved in floral scent production in Clarkia breweri.

Eugenol, isoeugenol, methyleugenol, and isomethyleugenol are volatiles found in the floral scent of Clarkia breweri. With their distinct aromas, they are used in many perfumes and food seasonings. Here we report the purification and characterization of (iso)eugenol O-methyltransferase (IEMT), the enzyme that methylates eugenol or isoeugenol to make methyleugenol or isomethyleugenol, respectively, using S-adenosyl-L-methionine as the methyl donor. C. breweri IEMT was copurified with caffeic acid O-methyltransferase (COMT) from petals and purified to homogeneity from a bacterial expression system. IEMT is active as a homodimer with a subunit molecular mass of 40 kDa. It is stable at temperatures up to 35 degrees C. It shows optimum activity at pH 7.5, and it does not require any cofactors for enzymatic activity. Plant-purified IEMT has K(m) values of 7 and 58 microM for eugenol and isoeugenol, respectively, and 27 microM for SAM (30, 74, and 19 microM, respectively, for the plant IEMT expressed in Escherichia coli). By substituting coding regions from COMT into IEMT, it was determined that the regions in IEMT involved in substrate specificity are located in the first half of the protein sequence and that a small segment of 82 amino acids (amino acids 92-173) accounts for the main differences between IEMT and COMT in both substrate specificity and methylation regiospecificity.

Amino Acid Sequence↗

Toxicity study of diethyl phthalate on freshwater fish Cirrhina mrigala.

Diethyl phthalate (DEP) is used as a plasticizer, a detergent base, in aerosol sprays, as a perfume binder in incense sticks and after-shave lotions. It is known to be a contaminant of freshwater and marine ecosystems. Therefore, a study was designed to determine the toxic effects of DEP on a freshwater fish, Cirrhina mrigala. The fish was treated with 25, 50, 75, and 100 ppm (w/v) DEP dissolved in acetone to determine the LC50. Positive controls were treated with acetone only. There was 100% mortality observed within 24 h in 75 and 100 ppm, and 50% mortality in 50 ppm treated fish in 72 h. Those treated at 25 ppm showed only 10% mortality within 72 h and remaining fish continued to survive. The surviving fish were treated with 25 ppm DEP once daily for 3 days with every change of water (Group III). One group was maintained as negative control in dechlorinated water (Group I) and the other group received acetone once daily for 3 days with every change of water and was used as positive control (Group II). Fish were killed by cold narcosis on an ice block and dissected to obtain liver, muscle, and brain samples; 10% homogenates in ice-cold saline were prepared. Brain and muscle acetylcholinesterase (AchE) activity was measured. Liver aspartate (AST) and alanine aminotransferase (ALT), and liver and muscle succinate dehydrogenase (SDH) alkaline and acid phosphate (ALP and ACP) were measured. There was a significant increase in liver and muscle ACP and ALP in DEP-treated fish compared with positive and negative controls. There was a significant increase in muscle SDH and liver ALT (ALT) in DEP-treated fish compared with positive and negative controls. Brain AchE level was significantly decreased in DEP-treated fish compared to positive and negative controls. These results indicate that DEP brings about significant changes in the activity of certain liver and muscle enzymes. These alterations in enzyme activity may have long-term effects on that are continuously exposed to low doses of DEP in the aquatic environment.

Acetylcholinesterase↗

International comparison of odor threshold values of several odorants in Japan and in The Netherlands.

The purpose of this paper is to compare the published odor threshold values of six odorants. In Japan, all of the odor threshold values used in the Offensive Odor Control Law (enacted in 1972) were determined in an odor-free room (4 m3) by a trained panel (20 men, ages 30-45 years who were perfumers) who sniffed the odors directly and made absolute judgments of odor quality and intensity. In The Netherlands, sensorial odor concentration measurements were made with an olfactometer in a mobile sniffing car with eight panelists, four men and four women, ages 18-40 years. Such presentations are repeated with different dilution ratios. Comparison of the threshold data for the six different compounds given as the barely perceptible concentration level revealed striking similarities for hydrogen sulfide (in Japan 0.0005 ppm/in The Netherlands 0.0003 ppm), phenol (0.012/0.010), styrene (0.033/0.016), toluene (0.92/0.99), and tetrachloroethylene (1.8/1.2) but not for m-xylene (0.012/0.12). Such a similarity was not found with any other literature sources.

Adolescent↗

Consumption of lipophilic contaminants in human milk by infants: quantities are usually incorrect.

We evaluated several reports on the detection of nitromusks (artificial perfumes) in human milk. The nitromusks found were separated by gas-liquid chromatography and identified by mass spectrometry. However, the quantities reported as being consumed by infants were often questionable (Jensen, 1995). The investigators did not always a) obtain a representative samples of milk, b) extract and quantify the fat by a recognized, accurate method, or c) determine the amount of milk, hence fat, consumed by the infant. Some investigators gave almost no data on the milk, except to say that a sample was obtained. Reports on some other contaminants in human milk were similarly deficient. We have published a description of recommended extraction procedures in a paper presenting a detailed protocol for the processing of milk so as to determine the actual amounts of lipophilic contaminants ingested by the nursing infant (Jensen et al. 1997).

Breast Feeding↗

An epidemic of a "new" haemorrhagic disease in infants attributable to talcum powder contaminated with warfarin in Ho-Chi-Minh Ville (Vietnam).

In August 1981, pediatric hospitals in Ho-Chi-Minh Ville (Saigon) began to report numerous cases of a haemorrhagic syndrome in infants. A collaborative study with a French epidemilogist began on September 24, 1981, with the aim of finding the cause of this "new" haemorrhagic disease. After having excluded the hypothesis of a viral or bacterial infection, a retrospective study, using questionnaires with 83 items, concerning products of hygiene and nutrition and living conditions, was undertaken. This epidemiological investigation showed this phenomenon was caused by an anticoagulant contained in talcum powder. Analysis of the talcum powders found warfarin; the concentrations ranged between 1.7% and 6.5%. This dramatic episode (741 cases with 177 deaths) ended when the contaminated talc was withdrawn from circulation. The hypothesis of accidental contamination or use of warfarin in lieu of a perfuming agent must be rejected. Accidental addition of a rat-killer seems highly improbable and the possibility of intentional and malevolent adulteration is now under study. An experimental study of hemostasis in two baboons was carried out, using dermal application of the contaminated talc powder. The intoxicated animal died on the 5th day with severe vitamin K deficiency. This accident together with the animal study, shows the transcutaneous uptake of the anticoagulant, which could be of considerable importance in toxicology and in pharmacokinetics.

Blood Coagulation Disorders↗

Microbial metabolism of monoterpenes--recent developments.

Monoterpenes are important renewable resources for the perfume and flavour industry but the pathways and enzymology of their degradation by microorganisms are not well documented. Until recently the acyclic monoterpene alcohols, (+)-camphor and the isomers of limonene were the only compounds for which significant sections of catabolic pathways and associated enzymology had been reported. In this paper recent developments in our understanding of the enzymology of ring cleavage by microorganisms capable of growth with 1,8-cineole and alpha-pinene are described. 1,8-Cineole has the carbocyclic skeleton of a monocyclic monoterpene with the added complication of an internal ether linkage. Ring hydroxylation strategy and biological Baeyer-Villiger oxygenation lead to an efficient method for cleaving the ether linkage. alpha-Pinene is an unsaturated bicyclic monoterpene hydrocarbon. At least two catabolic pathways exist. Information concerning one of them, in which alpha-pinene may be initially converted into limonene, is rudimentary. The other involves attack at the double bond resulting in formation of alpha-pinene epoxide. Ring cleavage is then catalysed by a novel lyase that requires no additional components and breaks both carbocyclic rings in a concerted manner.

Bicyclic Monoterpenes↗